jtrygstad

Just re-installed my fuel distributor after a rebuild (thanks Rich Andrade & Garrity )

With it back in place, I can't get the engine to start/fire. I pulled the plugs and they were wet, so replaced the plugs with fresh set. Checked to make sure that I had spark, too. They are sparking. Finally sprayed some starter fluid - no help. I'm sure I have left out some minutiae in these trials and tribulations.

The car was running ok but not stellar prior to fuel distributor rebuild, i.e., sometimes hot start problems and a little rough idling. But it always started cold. I have a set of gauges hooked up at the present.

The system pressure is 75 psi
Cold control pressure is high at about 53 psi (engine not running using Watson method) so I know the WUR may need some attending) but this is same as before the rremoval and rebuild of the distributor.

Leak down before and after rebuild is the same - very little in the first 30 minutes.

Any ideas? Since nothing else has changed, I think if the engine would just fire up one time, I could get back to tuning it properly, such as the WUR, etc.

BTW, new vacuum hoses, plug wires, coil, etc., installed recently.

Richard S

Is it getting any air? Check the air flow sensor plate in the intake...maybe it is stuck and not enough air can pass by, or it needs proper alignment. Not hard to do. This happened to me after I re-installed my intake. An easy stab with a finger un-stuck it, started right up after that. Hope this makes sense.

Rich

Kevin Michael

Did you remember to reinsert the plunger? Did any fuel lines kink during pull or install? If all that is good it might need an A/F adj. because of the "new" fuel dist. I think a 3mm allen will do it .Insert it fore of the dist. and push down gently till it engages then turn c-wise for rich, cc-wise for lean. Do this in small increments either way till it starts , then fine tune to the smoothest lean setting. I am no expert but this got my 83 euro running after dist. swap when no one else could figure it out.

jtrygstad

Thanks guys.

The air flow plate moves freely - I cleaned & lubricated the "back-end" lever/cam while the dist. was off.

Plunger & fuel lines are ok. I did muck with the A/F adj., so maybe that should be my next step as you suggest Kevin. BTW, Watson says under "cold crank, no start" that the aux air valve must be open. Checked it was almost closed, so removed it and stuck it the freezer for 45 minutes. Wasn't all the way open, but more than before. Re-installed, but still no start so I think it is the A/F as you suggested. Besides, can't think of anything else to try.

GlenL

If you've got spark and you've shot in starter fluid, it should do something.

Did you have the distributor off?

Is it cranking well? Have you tried charging the battery?

Dennis Wilson

Agree with Kevin in that the A/F mixture need adjusted. The adjustment should start lean and work toward rich and since your plugs are wet you need to turn the adjuster counterclockwise. A simple procedure to get it close is to remove an injector and place it in a container, jumper the 30 and 87 connections for the fuel pump relay connector, slightly depress the air sensor plate then slowly adjust the mixture screw from lean to rich. When the injector starts releasing fuel, the engine should now start so final adjustments can be made.

Dennis

GlenL

Oh. That A/F screw is really touchy. Like 20 degrees is a whole mixture point.

I personally won't touch it off the dyno. Don't have an O2 meter on the exhaust, which would be nice.

Dennis Wilson

Too late Glen. He's already "mucked" with it.

Dennis

mulik51

Are you sure that plunser in fuel distrbutor moves freely? On mine it didn't, so it might get stuck in the highest position, giving too much fuel. Just my 2 cents.

Klim

jtrygstad

Glen,
Cranks well - charger is been on all weekend. Now I just needed to get it started so that I can get to a dyno.

Dennis,
I think my remaining option is to do exactly that. Start very lean (remember I have it all mucked up)with an injector out and adjust ro rich until it sprays. Then when it starts, off to the dyno!

Klim,
The plunger is moving freely, but that is a good point.

jtrygstad

Dennis:

I just tried your method - made some adjustments, but out of battery for cranking, so will have to wait until Friday when I'm back home. Have a question, though, with the injector out and the pump energized, should the injector shut off completely or is there a small spray? I have a minor spray which turns in a "normal" pattern when the sensor plate is depressed. If the small spray in not normal, then that could expain my 11 mpg! Or is my control pressure too high?

Dennis Wilson

John,

There shouldn't be any spray unless there is air movement past the sensor plate. Even at idle there is air moving past the plate. BTW if the plugs are still wet from earlier attempts try unplugging the cold start valve.

Dennis

jtrygstad

So that means if the air sensor is fully closed (the control pressure keeps it closed) then zero discharge from the injector - right? I think I cranked A/F all the way ccw to stop, then started toward rich. Looks like I have at least one leaker; need to check the rest.

hupp

John,

A low control pressure would result in a rich mixture and a high control pressure would result in a lean mixture. Here is a simple way to visualize: Imagine a lever with air flow pushing down on one end and control pushing down on the opposite end. The lower the control pressure the easier it is for the air flow to displace the "air" end (via the sensor plate), thus more fuel in relative to air in.

Based on your last post, you may have a flooding condition due to a possible leaky injector(s).

jpitman2

With no air plate movement, you should not have any spray - sounds like a leaker to me.They should open around 50-55psi IIRC, which they shouldnt see until air plate moves. COld start control should be way down around 20psi, depending on ambient temp. When my WUR blocked and gave hot control around 60, it would run, but couldnt get past about 20mph.
jp 83 Euro S AT 49k