What kind of glue forms an air-tight seal?
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
What kind of glue forms an air-tight seal?
Today I was pulling the hose off the vacuum line running to the Idle Stabilizer Valve and realized the plastic fitting the hose is clamped to is no longer attached to the plastic "Y" fitting (all who have had idle problems will know what I'm talking about). So, with the hose clamped to the fitting there is a vacuum leak (one that I could hear and feel) - I need to glue the two plastic parts back together with something that is somewhat flexible and can form an air-tight seal.
This may finally be a solution to my engine stalling problems that I have thought to be related to the ISV (I'm a real optimist). My car has stalled hundreds of times over the past few years, but always restarts immediately. The many knowledgeable diagnoses I have received on this board have ranged from: "check the flex plate", and "sounds like thrust bearing failure", to the more probable "check the ISV" and "sounds like computer failure". The thought of paying $1500 for a new, yet 15-year-old computer, has never been appealing so I always ignored that suggestion. Since the car has stalled hundreds of times and always restarted immediately, the only likely culprit is the ISV. My new discovery of a vacuum leak going to the ISV is encouraging.
Any thoughts on the right glue?
This may finally be a solution to my engine stalling problems that I have thought to be related to the ISV (I'm a real optimist). My car has stalled hundreds of times over the past few years, but always restarts immediately. The many knowledgeable diagnoses I have received on this board have ranged from: "check the flex plate", and "sounds like thrust bearing failure", to the more probable "check the ISV" and "sounds like computer failure". The thought of paying $1500 for a new, yet 15-year-old computer, has never been appealing so I always ignored that suggestion. Since the car has stalled hundreds of times and always restarted immediately, the only likely culprit is the ISV. My new discovery of a vacuum leak going to the ISV is encouraging.
Any thoughts on the right glue?
#4
Ballistic silicone is air tight, oil and gas resistant, can take high temps and stays flexible almost forever. Used in the studies of ballistics on the human body. Ballistic labs shoot bullits into the stuff to measure effects. Also used by film studios for special effects. It's a multi part system so you can mix small batches of it. Do a Goggle search for a supplier near you.
#6
Rennlist Member
With all of the heat and vibration in that area I wouldn't want to depend on silicone. Is there a reason you can not order the Y fitting?
As a last resort I would clean both ends up nicely, get some J B Weld. Make your initial mating and then after it has started to dry add a small section of screen mesh for strength and a top coat of JB Weld. Let it set for 24 hours before putting it to use.
Ken
As a last resort I would clean both ends up nicely, get some J B Weld. Make your initial mating and then after it has started to dry add a small section of screen mesh for strength and a top coat of JB Weld. Let it set for 24 hours before putting it to use.
Ken
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#8
Instructor
Thread Starter
Just an additional note - the part I need to glue together is actually glued originally at the factory, so this is not some sort of bozo repair I'm doing - I just want to close a vacuum leak that opened due to a failed glue joint between two plastic parts. The reason I thought the glue would need to be somewhat flexible is because of the vibration inherent in anything attached to an engine.