jim morehouse

The '82 5 spd has been 'in storage' for about 2 yrs since my son decided he didn't want to buy it. I put it up on the harbor freight wheel dollies and rolled it to one side of an outside garage where it's been sitting. The garage is exposed to all the temp and humidity extremes of the NE. When I put it up, it was running fine...just the 'normal' 2nd gear synchro issues. The current problem is likely my own fault since I know I should've taken the time to roll it out and put some miles on it a few times a year...just didn't get that round tuit.

My brother expressed an interest in it so we got it out and got it started w/o much trouble. But we can't get the clutch to operate. With the clutch in and in first gear, bump the ignition key and the car goes forward (e-brake on)..just like the clutch wasn't depressed. Start in neutral and can't get the car to go into any gear, just grinds. The clutch pedal has pressure and returns, although it's not as firm as I seem to remember it. Brake fluid level is fine. Seems like the first step would be to replace the fluid and bleed the clutch slave but I was wondering if there is anything else I should be looking for as a possible cause. Is it possible for the clutch disc to have rusted/stuck together? Is there some good way to diagnose this from under the car by visualing inspecting w the bell housing off?

Kind of hard to believe the clutch would fail just because the car sat that long...isn't it?

Any hints on what to look at/for would be appreciated.

thanks,
Jim

Curt911

my bet is that the slave went bad from the heat/cold, if its bad I would change the master too...

if you could get it in gear and run it at about 2500 rpm then give a sharp snap of the brake and release it may get the disc to slide some (it it did rust up) but if the pressure plate is rusted out too it will not matter... I have seen this happen but not in a porsche

I'd prob start with the slave and bleed and see what happens

worf928

You can look in the inspection hole in the clutch cover and see if the slave piston is actually doing anything at all with respect to the release arm lever.

jim morehouse

Curt and Dave, thanks for the advice. I'd also posted on the email list and it seems that it's relatively common for the clutch plates to rust and stick together. Recommended method to release is to either bump the ignition w the car in gear or tow it up speed in gear and run it a bit when it starts(which sounds a little dicier).

Jim

jim morehouse

Another question: if I remove the lower bell housing cover, would it be possible to pry the plates loose or is there too much chance of damaging things?

Jim
'88 5 spd..running great
'82 5 spd, soon?

WallyP

Jim,

1) Chock the front wheels - securely!!
2) Jack the rear so the rear tires clear the ground.
3) Put it in fifth gear, and crank the engine.
4) Run it up to about two grand, push the clutch to the floor and stab the brakes.

jim morehouse

Wally,
Great tip, thank you. We put the car up as you suggested and the clutch freed up immediately. What fun, checked the fluid levels, tires and took it out for a drive. It ran great, just as strong as I remembered it.

thank you,
Jim

JKelly

To break rusted/non-sliding clutch disks free from the intermediate ring, flywheel, and/or pressure plate because the car was stored while in gear? Just wondering.

AO

Gaaaa'Damn!!! Wally sure does know everything!

Wally, How'd you come up with that one? Just curious.