hupp

I've been fighting this for a month now and I've just about resorted to pulling the clutch. My clutch starts to drag after the shark has warmed up. After the shark sits for a night, I can climb in and drive for several miles with no shifting problems, then things start to degrade. First a nick can be felt when shifting into second then (after many miles) things degrade to the point where the only gear I can shift into (car at a stop) is 5th.

I've replaced the master and slave twice (once when my engine was out 6 mos. ago and recently), bled the system many times and measured the travel (prior to driving) - travel at spec. The entire clutch pac is new except for the short shaft. New PP, IP, discs I & II, throw-out, pilot, plastic ball stud bushing, flywheel was machined to spec. The hydraulic system is new master, slave, blue hose, black hose, hard line between master and black hose. I've re-adjusted the intermediate plate twice, as well.

Questions:
- Is is ok for the blue hose to have a "high point". My blue hose has a high point near the master fitting; however, this point is lower than the fluid reservoir? This is a reach, but I was thinking a bubble may be trapped in this point and gradually finds its way to the master during operation.

- Would an intermediate plate adjustment problem be constant or can it be intermittant?

- Would there be any reason for one of the friction discs to begin hanging up after driving many miles rather than hanging up imediately?

I beginning to feel like my ole' bugger is one great lesson in Murphy's Law.

WallyP

Questions:
- Is is ok for the blue hose to have a "high point". My blue hose has a high point near the master fitting; however, this point is lower than the fluid reservoir? This is a reach, but I was thinking a bubble may be trapped in this point and gradually finds its way to the master during operation.

> After the initial fill and bleeding, there really shouldn't be any flow of fluid from the reservoir into the master cylinder - the clutch doesn't "use" any fluid unless there is a leak. You start with the master cylinder full, and push that fluid into the slave with the pedal. When you release the pedal, the fluid is pushed back into the master, with no net loss.


- Would an intermediate plate adjustment problem be constant or can it be intermittant?

> I would expect it to be more or less constant - I can't see any reason for the adjustment to change with temp, and then change back.

- Would there be any reason for one of the friction discs to begin hanging up after driving many miles rather than hanging up imediately?

> My first suspicion would be a worn spot on the center shaft - but I don't see why it would be worse after it gets hot.

Bottom line answer - I wish that I could help!

hupp

One more thing I might add, I've noticed a small mechanical vibration in the clutch pedal when depressed (vibration noticed about 1/4 to 1/2 depressed.) I guess I should check the ball cup plastic bushing (6 mos old) to ensure that this has not failed for some reason.

ErnestSw

I wonder whether you've checked your measurements with the clutch depressed all the way to make sure that it's moving as far as it should. If the disengagement is marginal it might be further reduced when things warm up. You might also ask the tranny gurus whether it could be a problem in the transmission itself.

hupp

I took a closer look at the slave rod travel last night. It appears as though the travel is approx 1.5mm less than spec. Is this enough to cause the clutch to drag?

AngelP

I had a similar problem when i first retrofitted the double disk to my GT. After the install, intermediate disk adjustment , and bleeding the shifting would be fine but after about 1/2hr of driving it would start to drag and get hard to shift. Finally after about a month with these symtoms and having to re-adjust the int. disk several times, I decided to follow Mark Anderson's technique to assure a proper bleed of the slave cylinder. He descripes it in the 928intl catalog. All has been well since.

ErnestSw

I would only consider adding a spacer to the disengagement mechanism after doing the bleed. 1.5mm could be significant especially in view of the fact that it only occurs after full warm up. I think it's more likely to be a bleed issue.

Rich9928p

I fought clutch adjustment problems for 2 years. The center plate would be adjusted and then after a little while the clutch would drag. Replacing the clutch pedal bearings, clutch plates, throwout bearing, clutch master, clutch slave did not help! Only after replacing the central shaft and intermediate plate did the problem go away. Given the labor involved (my track car has headers, and those must come off to access the clutch), I just replaced these last two bits at the same time.

hupp

My intermediate plate is new, the central shaft is not. I've had the bell housing off many times to observe the clutch release. The discs do not seem to hang up on the splines when I pry the release arm back to spec travel. I can literaly see the friction discs spring toward the pressure plate when I release the clutch. The intermediate seems to be working ok as well.

hupp

Dropped the clutch today. Worn short shaft splines. I really wish I would have presumed this before because dropping the clutch was much easier than replacing the master. Oh well, I guess it was a rite of passage.

figgen

What tipped you off to the worn splines??? I just R&R's my clutch with out doing the intermediate plate and short shaft. I'm just fishing for info if there was something I could have (should have) checked on these items??

hupp

The clutch was dragging and the tip was that it was the only possible variable left in the equation. I had basically eliminated all other options by replacing parts.

I had not completely educated myself on potential clutch problems when I replaced the clutch last April; therefore, I did not pay too much attention to the short shaft. I looked at it much closer this time and noticed the wear. It is not blatantly obvious unless you're looking for it.

hupp

Re-installed my clutch on Friday with no helper...ugh! The new short shaft along with a little intermediate plate adjustment seem to have done the trick thus far. Only time will tell.

Sean79 5spd

Hupp, I am about to change my clutch (engine is on a stand at the moment). Would you be able post a pic that shows the worn splines on the short shaft. I have not noticed any wear on mine but maybe I am not looking at it correctly.

Thanks
Sean

hupp

I have not taken any pics yet, but I'll try to post soon. In the mean time, here is an easy to tell. Instert one of the friction discs on the shaft, rotate the disc clockwise (as looking from the pilot bearing side of the shaft) and hold. Now move the disc up and down the splines, If you feel a notch you have wear. You can also tell bu sliding your thumb nail up and down the splines.

The wear on my splined shaft was obvious once I started looking for it. I just wish I would have looked closer the first time.