Clutch Guru's
#1
Clutch Guru's
Well..... after upgrading my OB clutch to the newer style discs (longer hub) and throwout arm (with screw-in pivot ball) I can't seem to get the GOSH DARN ball cup onto the ball. If I put the nylon cup in the throwout arm I can't get it up to and on the pivot. If I remove the pivot and push tjhe arm up I can't screw the ball in. Does any one have a specific method for replacing the ball cup "in situ"?
This is for a 79' OB. The early style throwout had a very small ball and no nylon cup, so there was pleny of room for both components to pop on and off during service. Does the entire clutch pack have to be dropped and then press the arm on before the intermediate shaft goes into the pilot bearing?
Sorry if this too confusing, I've been for awhile now.
Thanks guys,
Coleman
This is for a 79' OB. The early style throwout had a very small ball and no nylon cup, so there was pleny of room for both components to pop on and off during service. Does the entire clutch pack have to be dropped and then press the arm on before the intermediate shaft goes into the pilot bearing?
Sorry if this too confusing, I've been for awhile now.
Thanks guys,
Coleman
#2
Nordschleife Master
Well, let me say that I've been near exactly where you are.
I take it you've drilled and tapped the bellhousing to accept the newer stud. I'd screw that baby in there with a washer, so it is firm with the aluminum, and some blue loctite.
Getting the new cup onto the stud is an excersize in patience, strength and force. In my experience, the arm won't go through the hole if the clutch is bolted in place. This means you've got to hold the clutch pack up while threading the arm through the top of the bellhousing. A floor jack can be handy there. Then you can bolt the clutch pack down and crank back on the release arm. Much force is required to snap the new cup over the stud. A bit of grease may help and is recommended for the inside of the cup anyways. I use some white lithium.
HTH.
I take it you've drilled and tapped the bellhousing to accept the newer stud. I'd screw that baby in there with a washer, so it is firm with the aluminum, and some blue loctite.
Getting the new cup onto the stud is an excersize in patience, strength and force. In my experience, the arm won't go through the hole if the clutch is bolted in place. This means you've got to hold the clutch pack up while threading the arm through the top of the bellhousing. A floor jack can be handy there. Then you can bolt the clutch pack down and crank back on the release arm. Much force is required to snap the new cup over the stud. A bit of grease may help and is recommended for the inside of the cup anyways. I use some white lithium.
HTH.
#3
Thanks Glen,
Force ... I can do. Patience, however is in short supply. Reminds me of the carpenters axiom:
"Beat to fit and paint to match". I'll try the lube.
Thanks,
Coleman
Force ... I can do. Patience, however is in short supply. Reminds me of the carpenters axiom:
"Beat to fit and paint to match". I'll try the lube.
Thanks,
Coleman
#4
I just did the clutch in my 79 last week. Use a herc. strap(ratcheting strap) around the rear suspension and the release arm. Position the ball cup on the ball stud and Pull back on the release arm(using the strap).Reach up into the upper bell housing with a pry bar and work the bushing over the ball stud.
Good luck!
Good luck!
#5
Thanks Guys,
Yes, it is necessary to to loosen the clutch pack and orient the throwout cup prior to tightening anything. Then using a ratchet strap to load the arm from the bottom it pops on. Done..........
Now for the bleed.
Thanks again,
Coleman
Yes, it is necessary to to loosen the clutch pack and orient the throwout cup prior to tightening anything. Then using a ratchet strap to load the arm from the bottom it pops on. Done..........
Now for the bleed.
Thanks again,
Coleman