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27 hours to do head gaskets?

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Old 01-17-2005 | 04:17 PM
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Default 27 hours to do head gaskets?

Ouch, at a cheap $74/hour. So it looks like I'll be trying to do this myself.

TB/WP and Headgaskets. I'll see if I can do it with the motor in the car, I have no way of pulling it. So anybody wanna help?

What do I need to do the TB/WP? Flywheel lock and Tension tool? Anybody have either that I can borrow for a few months?
Old 01-17-2005 | 04:21 PM
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I'm in the same boat - due to a recent engagement ring / GF's surgery & a wedding October (yes mine) - building a 5.0 hybrid is out the window. So, I get back from Key West in February - time to pull the heads off the 81 (HG is leaking). Pulling the motor is not an option right now.
Old 01-17-2005 | 05:59 PM
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The flywheel lock is about $25, and the tension tool (aftermarket) is about $60 I think. You'd be better off just buying those.
Old 01-17-2005 | 06:38 PM
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The Kempf tool is a bargain @ $60. You will need to re-tension anyway. I like to check mine after a DE or hard runningat an AX
Old 01-17-2005 | 11:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Hacker-Pschorr
Pulling the motor is not an option right now.
I was just reading Chilton Professional writeup that says heads can be removed with engine in the car on 16v... true???
Old 01-17-2005 | 11:47 PM
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True. I (and others) have done this both ways.

Old 01-17-2005 | 11:53 PM
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Anthony.. THANK YOU!!
please tell more.. any special tools? the writeup is pretty straight forward in this book and I'd LOVE to avoid removing the engine... I have all gaskets and new heads
Old 01-18-2005 | 12:00 AM
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I remember someone here saying it's easier to remove the heads on a 16V once the fenders are removed.
Old 01-18-2005 | 01:19 AM
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The first posts I made were about head replacement for an S4 with the engine in following cam belt failure. Since this is a fairly big job it's worth reading some of replies as I'm sure you will encounter the same issues (awkward bolts, stuck balancer and/or sprockets, valve seal re-newal, surface preparation, cam timing etc.)

As far as the flywheel lock and tension tool is concerned, it is possible to do without both: 5th gear and handbrake is sufficient to hold the crank, but a much easier method of undoing the crank bolt is to use the starter motor. The Kempf tool is great, but an even easier way of checking belt tension is to use the JagEng sound file.

I recommend using proper fender protectors when working on the engine, I used towels and bulldog clips (I was virtually penniless) but they are far from ideal.

Check the pics on my site and you'll see I was working in less than ideal conditions, with a very dirty engine. If at all possible clean your engine before starting the repair.
Old 01-18-2005 | 01:21 AM
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I forgot to say, 27 hours would be great, it took me about 27 days (spread over 4 months).
Old 01-18-2005 | 08:05 AM
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Well, looking closer at the car it appears that the head gasket is just seeping. So as I do the TB/WP I'll look deeper into it to see if it really needs to be done. Should I stay away from adding any stop leak to the coolant? The car only has 45k miles, anybody think the gaskets would've actually gone this early in life? I'm just dreading this fun job with the motor in the car.
Old 01-18-2005 | 08:19 AM
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I'll admit I have not looked into the step by step process of this job yet, but one question comes to mind. If I'm just pulling the heads, why the need for a flywheel lock? I'm not worried about buying proper tools if needed, just curious.
Old 01-18-2005 | 08:41 AM
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I would think if you're pulling the head you would need to reset the Timing Belt therefore it'll be just like changing the belt. therefore needing the Flywheel lock.
Old 01-18-2005 | 09:01 AM
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Well, I've never changed a TB either. This will be a learning experience.
Old 01-18-2005 | 09:09 AM
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For you and me both. BTW, congrats on your engagement. I just got married in August, still aying for it. I never realized how expensive a wedding could be. Thank God for 0% credit cards.


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