THE FARMER

After engine is warm , the temp. guage will wiggle at times & is showing about 1/4
the way up. At times it will shake . Then later when I look down it is perfectly still & sitting about in the middle . Is this maybe a loose connection at the sending unit. If so where is it located? I have a 86 928s . THANKS in Advance!
THE FARMER

WallyP

Iris Blue is a beautiful color, whether it is the light blue like our '86s, or the dark blue as on the GTS...

The temp sender is top center of the engine - front of the intake manifold. But - your problem is more likely to be a bad connection on the flexible circuit board inside the pod..
Or a loose connection anywhere in the circuit.

The temp sensor wires are blue/green and blue/yellow. They enter/exit the Central Electric Panel on M24 and M25 (Plug M, 4th wire up on the right side and 5th wire up on the right side). On the instrument side, they enter/exit on L14 (Plug L, 4th wire up on the left side, goes to terminal 13 on the pod circuit board) and L15 (Plug L, 5th wire up on the left side,goes to terminal 15 on the yellow side of the central warning computer in the driver's footrest).

THE FARMER

THANKS! Wally for all the info.will check it out. THE FARMER

Schocki

If you can get the gauge working by wiggling the cluster it will be most likely a failed gauge. Here is a link how I fixed mine Roger's GTS had the same bad solder spot!
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/149496-finally-oil-pressure-gauge-repaired.html

THE FARMER

I really appreciate your info. Will check it all out. reguards , Hollis...... THE FARMER

jpitman2

mine goes up ~1-1 1/2 needle widths just by turning on side lights.....bad contact or ground somewhere.
jp 83 Euro S AT 48k

TAREK

Old thread I know. but it's good to recycle rather than create new threads. OK...on my '85 euro, I have continuity from M25 to Terninal 15 on yellow connector of central warning computer, but no continuity from L15 to the same terminal. Unless there is another continuity path, t's not making sense to me that there would be an interrupt in one of the internal nodes, while point to point continuity is maintained. My electronic copy of electrical diagrams is a whole other puzzle, as pages are scanned backwards and in reverse...and not numbered. Still wading thousands of unnumbered pages to find the correct electrical diagram for the '85 euro

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Tarek

6.0-928S

I worked at Holbert's Porsche in the late 80's & early 90's. There was a tech bulletin about this problem. As a matter of fact I have my own (86.5) dash out at the moment to install Jager's LED lights, & my gauge does the same thing. The bulletin said that the problem was likely at the dash circuit card connection. It suggested bending the harness terminals in the connector for more tension & applying dielectric compund to the card terminals. Rather than remove all those terminals from the housing, I popped out the black retainer that holds on the terminal pin housing on the back of the pod, then lifting up the card & spaced it up with a piece of the card material that I snipped off one of the edges. Then I put the dielectric compound on the terminals. I haven't finished reinstalling it yet but that's where Porsche suggested the problem was.
Hammer

TAREK

The PO apparently used a piece of cigarette pack material to do just that. My problem is intermittent operation of the gauge. No wiggling. It either works or it doesn't. And now that I have everything out, it's actually working!!! most things intermittent make diagnosis difficult