New dampers - what a difference!
For those of you riding around on old shock absorbers reassured by the fact that the car only rebounds once when you bounce it and nothing appears to be leaking, consider changing them anyway. Just had 4 new Boge OE dampers put on my 93,000 mile S4 auto, as well as ride height raised back to where it should be (I went for 175 mm front and back) and a full geometry check. I can't believe the difference. The car is fimer but actually rides much better and is so much quieter - no creaks and groans (in fact I thought I had gone deaf)! I kept the original springs but took some of the sag out of them with the height adjustment (25mm in 18 years isn't too bad). Now all I have to do is hide the invoice from my wife!
Originally Posted by Drmark
Now all I have to do is hide the invoice from my wife!
.
Isn't it just amazing how grown men have to lie and cheat just to get the necessities in life. Geesh! (If only the wife new how much I've spent already, and the car won't run for another year)
It is a wonderful thing when you replace those aged or worn items (ie. motor mounts, brakes, clutch, vacuum hoses, shocks, springs, plug wires, MAF etc...) and the car becomes a much improved animal. Doesn't it make you wonder what it would be like to drive a brand spanking new one?
Mine was a poor runner when I got it, due to neglect and lack of use. Every time I did a bit it got better, and Better, and BETTER! Fuel Filter, better; Plugs, better; plug leads, better; dist cap, rotor, air cleaner, and finally WUR and pressure adjust, Dynamite! So rewarding to have it respond, just like a living thing...
Sorry, couldnt help it.
jp 83 Euro S AT 48k
Sorry, couldnt help it.
jp 83 Euro S AT 48k
My '88 AT was in pretty good shape to begin with, but it too got better, Better, BETTER with modest improvements such as throttle and trans linkage adjustment, new squealless pads/dampeners and a little interior noise reduction. New shocks, huh? The guy who helped me with the brakes (I'm a low-skilled newbie) thought a shock replacement would make the car ride better. May I ask, roughly, what a shock replacement and spring adjustment costs?
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A grand to do boge shocks? Maybe if you pay somebody to do it for you... figure a buck a wheel (400) and a pleasant Saturday in the garage assuming you have some tools including a $50 set of spring compressors. I did both of my beasts for less than a grand. Run that beast over here, Steve. I'll help you out. I work for beer. lol Altho, I'm starting to lean towards a good bottle of scotch for wrenching services...
I agree with Marc. The spring compression is the worst part of the job, in my opinion. Scary. And I use 2 of them at a time, one on each side. Of course if you have air tools I imagine the job would be much less stressful.
Originally Posted by Ron_H
I agree with Marc. The spring compression is the worst part of the job, in my opinion. Scary. And I use 2 of them at a time, one on each side. Of course if you have air tools I imagine the job would be much less stressful.
I use three compressors (2 pairs @ $20/pr leaves a 'spare') with confidence - having had one tricky incident years past. There is lots of room to do so - and the spring is much easier and safer to manipulate.
Ok... maybe pleasant isn't exactly the right word. I use an air compressor and impact to tighten the compressors and it goes pretty quick. You _do_ have to be very careful with this procedure; a tensioned spring that lets loose all of a sudden will ruin your day. IMO, the hardest part of this job is getting the assembled unit back in thru the upper A arm. I also caution against any beverage other than soda during the procedure. Once you're all back together... that first ice cold beer is the best.
Mike;
I don't know if this is the correct method, but I found the easiest way for me was to elevate the A arm to level and then "screw" the shock-spring assembly up through it, using the spring as "threads".
I don't know if this is the correct method, but I found the easiest way for me was to elevate the A arm to level and then "screw" the shock-spring assembly up through it, using the spring as "threads".


