leaky water pump equal bad?
... I'm raising 3 sweet 928's and a little 911, thanks for asking 
There's also the Bronco and the F100 twins.
01-11-2005 | 03:42 AM
#18
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 9,429
Likes: 2
From: Not close enough to VIR.
Originally Posted by Red UFO
I'll probably end up with back to back TB and WP jobs. I'll do a write up on my 83 work. But it will be a lazy man version not something attempted in a weekend. I started on it 2 1/2 weeks ago and not in a hurry to slap anything together quick.
Check out 928 Specialists' new WP/TB kits. They're idiot proof parts selection for a good price.
01-11-2005 | 09:55 AM
#19
Rennlist Member
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,210
Likes: 16
From: Nova Scotia
Originally Posted by docmirror
Okay, I'm gonna make a nutty suggestion. Water comes out the weep hole because it's under pressure. On older cars, when the front shaft seal went, I left the rad cap on, but not tightened. This will allow the coolant to run in the system at atmospheric pressure. The seal will not repair itself, but it may extend the life of it for a few more miles.
I also used to keep a 2 gal jug of distilled in the trunk, and fill at each opportunity. It will overheat if stuck in traffic, but avoid stop and go, keep the heater on, and you might make it. If not, the consequences are dire. I guess you know that already.
I also used to keep a 2 gal jug of distilled in the trunk, and fill at each opportunity. It will overheat if stuck in traffic, but avoid stop and go, keep the heater on, and you might make it. If not, the consequences are dire. I guess you know that already.
Nothing nutty about that suggestion - it is good advice, if you choose to 'limp' on with the leak for a while. If it is a 16v euro '85, I would also pull the two top cam covers off - so you can monitor the TB, etc. If a 32v, forget it ...
BTW, on the '83 you mentioned filling the tensioner (with a syringe?) prior to the TB installation: wrong way 'round! - but OK if the bleed screw is OPENED as the belt is installed and tensioned: that will allow excess oil to escape without pushing a gasket or boot out of place
. then, close the bleeder.
01-11-2005 | 11:46 AM
#23
Thread Starter
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 9,613
Likes: 0
Sort of hate the idea of having plastic in there. How many metal impellers have eaten into the block?
I know 944 engine failure is quite common. But 928 have a lower rate of destruction on the engine per year.
I know 944 engine failure is quite common. But 928 have a lower rate of destruction on the engine per year.
01-11-2005 | 11:47 AM
#24
928 Collector
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,270
Likes: 5
From: Seattle
Well yes to an extent.
Plastic:
Cannot hurt engine block
When it breaks, car overheats
When it breaks, bearing is theoretically still fine (is this true?)
One of the Big Three did not even return my call when mine failed (Porsche rebuilt) after about 100 miles
Metal:
Stronger, impeller does not break
Bearing does break/seize as with plastic
When it breaks, it may grind the engine block
International's pumps are all metal, and I have had great success with those.
Plastic:
Cannot hurt engine block
When it breaks, car overheats
When it breaks, bearing is theoretically still fine (is this true?)
One of the Big Three did not even return my call when mine failed (Porsche rebuilt) after about 100 miles
Metal:
Stronger, impeller does not break
Bearing does break/seize as with plastic
When it breaks, it may grind the engine block
International's pumps are all metal, and I have had great success with those.