Ball Joint Tool
#1
Burning Brakes
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Has anyone out there purchased the ball joint press-out tool (type illustrated in the WSM)? Where can I find one of these? I've heard that the "pickle fork" type ball joint separators don't work very well. Is this true?
#3
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Originally Posted by hupp
Has anyone out there purchased the ball joint press-out tool (type illustrated in the WSM)? Where can I find one of these? I've heard that the "pickle fork" type ball joint separators don't work very well. Is this true?
Depends on what condition you want the old ball joints to have after surgery: 'Pickle forks' most often destroy the rubber boots, but they work fine for removal so it's a one way trip. The seperators are nice - but not having one, I've always used the "smack with a 2# ballpein hammer" trick. Works every time ...
#4
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I'm with Garth, besides it's fun using nonconventional tools
Originally Posted by Garth S
Scott,
Depends on what condition you want the old ball joints to have after surgery: 'Pickle forks' most often destroy the rubber boots, but they work fine for removal so it's a one way trip. The seperators are nice - but not having one, I've always used the "smack with a 2# ballpein hammer" trick. Works every time ...
Depends on what condition you want the old ball joints to have after surgery: 'Pickle forks' most often destroy the rubber boots, but they work fine for removal so it's a one way trip. The seperators are nice - but not having one, I've always used the "smack with a 2# ballpein hammer" trick. Works every time ...
#5
Race Director
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I have found when using a pickle-fork type tool to remove balljoints, it's helpful if you grease the hell out of the balljoint boot and the side of the fork that comes in contact with it. That way, it is more likely to slide over the boot and not tear it during separation. I just did this on Saturday when switching steering racks and it worked like a charm, no boot tears.
#6
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I loosened the BJ nuts, and used an air chisel with a dull **** on the end of it. Put the dull **** on top of the BJ stud and hit the trigger. Even stubborn BJ will come off with this method.
Man, this is one of the most erotic posts I've ever written. And it will all pass the sensor too....
Man, this is one of the most erotic posts I've ever written. And it will all pass the sensor too....
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#8
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Originally Posted by hupp
So what does the two hammer method involve. Sounds like drinking a few beers during the process may cause some collateral damage....
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Loosen the locknut, but leave 2-3 threads engaged. Place the face of a large hammer against the back side of the spindle eye containing the ball stud. Line up a larger hammer ( the 'BFH' type) on the front side of that eye (180 deg), practice swing, thumbs tucked out of harms way - and "wack". One very stout blow will usually release the stud - suddenly ( that's why the nut is left on!).
#12
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Ok, first I should say I rarely disagree with Garth as he is a certified 928 god
But I almost killed myself with the hammer method
See? They even have an icon for it.
I bought a tool online and they popped right off. Here's a similar one from the archive:
http://www.mytoolstore.com/toolaid/suspn02.html#61900
$13 bucks saved a trip to the emergency room and $400 of body work on the fender. YMMV
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But I almost killed myself with the hammer method
![order](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/order.gif)
See? They even have an icon for it.
I bought a tool online and they popped right off. Here's a similar one from the archive:
http://www.mytoolstore.com/toolaid/suspn02.html#61900
$13 bucks saved a trip to the emergency room and $400 of body work on the fender. YMMV