Lug nut broke off in wheel!
#16
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
A couple wraps of tape around the exposed lug threads might be enough to protect them from the spinning blade. For those playing along at home, this job is a little like Russian Roulette. You get to work with a hole saw that cuts the aluminum wheel even more easily than it cuts the aluminum lugnut. You can do a few things to improve your odds though.
The hole saw originally has a centering drill bit in the holder, but that has to come out so the saw will go over the lug. Find a bolt or other round stock to fit in where the drill was, fitted so it acts as a 'drill stop' on the end of the lug. Calibrate the length in one of the adjacent holes, so it stops just short of cutting the rim metal.
Put two lugnuts back in so the wheel is held firmly in place as you drill.
The hose saw has teeth 'set' both inwards and outwards. Depending on how good the saw blade is, work carefully to move the inward-set teeth out enough to be even with the sleeve section of the saw, plus a few thousanths if possible. This will keep those saw teeth from chewing on the stud threads. The tape wraps take up the rest of the clearance and help keep the saw body aligned with the stud as you drill.
GO SLOW with the drill motor. Fast enough so it does the work but slow enough that the teeth actually cut the lugnut metal. Spinning just wears the teeth faster and adds more heat.
When you get close to the final depth of your cut, reverse the motor and go slow with the drill motor and some extra pressure. There's always a chance that the heat of the saw cutting has broken the bond between the lugnut face and the wheel. In the normal cutting direction, you are tightening the nut into the wheel. Reverse just might back it out.
Use plenty of lubricant as you drill with the saw. PLENTY. Wally's ATF-and-Acetone penetrant would be OK for this duty, but you have to keep it flooded with the stuff to be effective as you drill. Careful as it is flammable though.
The hole saw originally has a centering drill bit in the holder, but that has to come out so the saw will go over the lug. Find a bolt or other round stock to fit in where the drill was, fitted so it acts as a 'drill stop' on the end of the lug. Calibrate the length in one of the adjacent holes, so it stops just short of cutting the rim metal.
Put two lugnuts back in so the wheel is held firmly in place as you drill.
The hose saw has teeth 'set' both inwards and outwards. Depending on how good the saw blade is, work carefully to move the inward-set teeth out enough to be even with the sleeve section of the saw, plus a few thousanths if possible. This will keep those saw teeth from chewing on the stud threads. The tape wraps take up the rest of the clearance and help keep the saw body aligned with the stud as you drill.
GO SLOW with the drill motor. Fast enough so it does the work but slow enough that the teeth actually cut the lugnut metal. Spinning just wears the teeth faster and adds more heat.
When you get close to the final depth of your cut, reverse the motor and go slow with the drill motor and some extra pressure. There's always a chance that the heat of the saw cutting has broken the bond between the lugnut face and the wheel. In the normal cutting direction, you are tightening the nut into the wheel. Reverse just might back it out.
Use plenty of lubricant as you drill with the saw. PLENTY. Wally's ATF-and-Acetone penetrant would be OK for this duty, but you have to keep it flooded with the stuff to be effective as you drill. Careful as it is flammable though.
#17
Electron Wrangler
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
What Jim & Dr Bob said - get the depth guaged & holesaw stopped - then go slow and accept some minor damage to the stud - save the wheels... You can always replace the stud next time you disassemble - but do chase it out well before you let an aluminum lug nut go back on the threads.
As for tape on the lug threads - for most rears the holes are way too deep to attempt this - I'd expect it would be hard even on the fronts. See if you can find some thin wall pastic pipe you can insert between the inner holesaw diameter & the stud to keep these located/centered.
BTDT - it was an immense PITA!
Alan
As for tape on the lug threads - for most rears the holes are way too deep to attempt this - I'd expect it would be hard even on the fronts. See if you can find some thin wall pastic pipe you can insert between the inner holesaw diameter & the stud to keep these located/centered.
BTDT - it was an immense PITA!
Alan
#18
Nordschleife Master
I could see a coping saw blade, or maybe a handheld jigsaw. But I would think a hacksaw would be too wide. But I'm wrong about a lot of stuff, this wouldn't be the first time.
I've always put the nut in a vise and used a small file. It takes a few minutes, but not all that long. And not too much skill to make a neat groove.
I've used a cutoff wheel on a dremel to make these sort of thread chasers out of bolts to use in damaged holes.
Put the bolt in a vise and cut the grooves. It takes longer to put the bolt in the vise and get it set than it does to cut the groove.'
Of course, you get damaged threads on studs much more often than in holes.
#19
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
#20
Nordschleife Master
They don't seem to carry it anymore?
#21
Rennlist Member
If you are willing to go to a bit more effort and be a bit more thorough, take a file and cut a couple of channels across the threads, just like a die would have. It makes a place for any shavings to get out of the way.
I have made a few different "thread chasers" including lug nuts this way. It makes cleaning up thread damage easier than just using a plain nut. I was pleasantly surprised at how much difference 2 small channels (180 degrees apart) made. Some sort of lube to help carry the shavings away is helpful too. "Tap Magic" is the "real" stuff, but I've used PB Blaster or WD-40.
I have made a few different "thread chasers" including lug nuts this way. It makes cleaning up thread damage easier than just using a plain nut. I was pleasantly surprised at how much difference 2 small channels (180 degrees apart) made. Some sort of lube to help carry the shavings away is helpful too. "Tap Magic" is the "real" stuff, but I've used PB Blaster or WD-40.
Must have been all that rain in blighty Roger
#22
Basic Sponsor
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Bought a hole saw. 5/8" was the best choice but not deep enough so I went with a 3/4". Remove the pilot drill. Just take it easy and there is no way you will damage the thread. Once I reached (by some simple calculation) the depth prior to cutting through the base of the lug nut I found that the wheel would start to move and break the last few thou of alloy. This left a small ring of alloy that had to prized out with a pick before the wheel would come off. Success!!!
As an extra bonus pictures of the 17mm spacers that are fitted to CS wheels.
Thanks for all the help.
As an extra bonus pictures of the 17mm spacers that are fitted to CS wheels.
Thanks for all the help.
__________________
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
The following users liked this post:
WestInc (10-16-2022)
#23
Nordschleife Master
#25
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
With bolt on spacers I prefer using the steel lug nuts to mount them to the hub.....not so sure why maybe just because they are hidden and steel seems stronger and they are not going to break ??
#27
Nordschleife Master
#28
Basic Sponsor
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
That is $385 each - OUCH!!!
Porsche system is down this weekend for maintenance. Can check availability in the morning.
At that price I am sure they will have plenty in stock.
Porsche system is down this weekend for maintenance. Can check availability in the morning.
At that price I am sure they will have plenty in stock.
#30
Basic Sponsor
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Jim,
When I first took the wheel off the SE I thought someone had added the bolt on spacers and was about to take them off as I did not think they were stock. It was only when I saw the 951 part number that I decided to double check.
Roger
When I first took the wheel off the SE I thought someone had added the bolt on spacers and was about to take them off as I did not think they were stock. It was only when I saw the 951 part number that I decided to double check.
Roger