A quick question about Air/Fuel Ratios
12-18-2004, 06:45 PM
#31
Rennlist Member
Hi Ken,
Yes, that's normal, at rpm above about 1200 rpm, with the throttle closed the injectors are switched off.
The WOT enrichment varies somewhat according to load and rpm. at mid load the enrichment lasts just a second or so. At higher loads it stays on as long as the load remains high.
Yes, that's normal, at rpm above about 1200 rpm, with the throttle closed the injectors are switched off.
The WOT enrichment varies somewhat according to load and rpm. at mid load the enrichment lasts just a second or so. At higher loads it stays on as long as the load remains high.
12-18-2004, 08:17 PM
#32
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Well, I got the SC off today, and I still can't find the knock sensor. So tomorrow I'll pull the frigging manifold. I swore that I wouldn't smog the car again, and would plan on reregistering the car somewhere else, but this makes me think that replacing the old manifold for smog wouldn't be so onerous. I could see switching to the old one over a weekend, getting smogged, and putting the SC manifold back on the next weekend. But I need a garage; doing this under the carport with neighbors stolling by is an aggravation.
I noticed a lot of my connectors are cracked with frayed wires. I took some time today to separate the wires, isolate each with elect. tape, and tape up the whole thing, but I think this can only be a temporary fix. Can you buy just the connectors, and splice into the old loom/harness? Or should I just get a new loom for the FI connectors/knock sensors? Crank sensor? Anybody got a source for individual connectors?
BTW, I discovered that my throttle switch *does* show continuity at idle (closed TB, pins 1, 2) but *DOES NOT* at WOT (pins 1,3; 2,3). So that would explain why I don't get rich at WOT. I'm thrilled to find this out for a couple reasons: first, that I can actually find something not working right instead of having to keep hunting and second, that it's an easy fix.
Does the Bosch Hammer diagnose hall/knock sensors, or what's the best way to make sure I'm running at 100% once everything seems dialed in?
I noticed a lot of my connectors are cracked with frayed wires. I took some time today to separate the wires, isolate each with elect. tape, and tape up the whole thing, but I think this can only be a temporary fix. Can you buy just the connectors, and splice into the old loom/harness? Or should I just get a new loom for the FI connectors/knock sensors? Crank sensor? Anybody got a source for individual connectors?
BTW, I discovered that my throttle switch *does* show continuity at idle (closed TB, pins 1, 2) but *DOES NOT* at WOT (pins 1,3; 2,3). So that would explain why I don't get rich at WOT. I'm thrilled to find this out for a couple reasons: first, that I can actually find something not working right instead of having to keep hunting and second, that it's an easy fix.
Does the Bosch Hammer diagnose hall/knock sensors, or what's the best way to make sure I'm running at 100% once everything seems dialed in?
12-19-2004, 06:37 AM
#33
Rennlist Member
Hi Brian,
Although I can supply the Bosch conectors, there are sources in the US you may find more convenient - these were mentioned on a thread a few days ago.
The Bosch Hammer or my diagnostic tester will give fault codes for both the Hall sensor signal and the knock sensors. It will tell you which of the two sensors is the problem.
For the throttle switch, the common ground pin is pin 2 (brown wire) The WOT pin is pin 1 (white/red wire)
Pin 3 is the throttle closed switch. This of course does not tally with you findings :-(
Although I can supply the Bosch conectors, there are sources in the US you may find more convenient - these were mentioned on a thread a few days ago.
The Bosch Hammer or my diagnostic tester will give fault codes for both the Hall sensor signal and the knock sensors. It will tell you which of the two sensors is the problem.
For the throttle switch, the common ground pin is pin 2 (brown wire) The WOT pin is pin 1 (white/red wire)
Pin 3 is the throttle closed switch. This of course does not tally with you findings :-(
12-19-2004, 12:36 PM
#34
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
It would if the TB is oriented so that my perspective was from the rear rather than the front (1 becomes 3 going L to R). The car idles great with it connected, and idles poorly with it disconnected. Andy indicated that I can use the throttle switch from the S4 with a couple mods, but I think I'll just pop for a new one (even though they're kinda pricey).
Andy also provided http://www.eagleday.com/ampconnectors.html as a source of plugs, although I'm glad at $24.95 per that there aren't many I need. Sheesh, that's $75 just for the crank and 2 knock sensors. No wonder the wiring looms are so expensive. Please confirm that this is a competitive price and you're not able to get them for a couple dollars (pounds) each.
Andy also provided http://www.eagleday.com/ampconnectors.html as a source of plugs, although I'm glad at $24.95 per that there aren't many I need. Sheesh, that's $75 just for the crank and 2 knock sensors. No wonder the wiring looms are so expensive. Please confirm that this is a competitive price and you're not able to get them for a couple dollars (pounds) each.
12-19-2004, 01:01 PM
#35
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Brian,
The knock sensors complete are only $55.00 each if you are going through the trouble of replacing the the it's probably worth the extra $30 ea.
HTH,
Andy
The knock sensors complete are only $55.00 each if you are going through the trouble of replacing the the it's probably worth the extra $30 ea.
HTH,
Andy
12-19-2004, 01:24 PM
#36
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Brian,
You will be able to R&R the manifold without removing the fuel rails and by-pass tubing. Just disconnect the line going into the front fuel damper and the line out of the stock regulator. Loosen the manifold bolts with a wrench. Do the reverse when re-installing it. This should save you a little time.
HTH,
Andy
You will be able to R&R the manifold without removing the fuel rails and by-pass tubing. Just disconnect the line going into the front fuel damper and the line out of the stock regulator. Loosen the manifold bolts with a wrench. Do the reverse when re-installing it. This should save you a little time.
HTH,
Andy
12-19-2004, 07:53 PM
#38
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Well, I got the SC, the manifold (without taking off the rails) off today and fished out the knock sensor. Happy to say the little bugger is reattached. They were replaced when the engine was rebuilt in Feb, so they're pretty much brand new.
Now the bad news. I must've gotten a gasket askew during the reconnect, however, because I can hear sort of a whistling from the front passenger side of the manifold. Sigh. So I'm done for this weekend, and it looks like next weekend I'll take it all apart-again-and see if I can't find the air leak...
Andy, can you send me a .jpg of what the gaskets look like, so I can visualize this in my mind this week...?
Now the bad news. I must've gotten a gasket askew during the reconnect, however, because I can hear sort of a whistling from the front passenger side of the manifold. Sigh. So I'm done for this weekend, and it looks like next weekend I'll take it all apart-again-and see if I can't find the air leak...
Andy, can you send me a .jpg of what the gaskets look like, so I can visualize this in my mind this week...?
12-20-2004, 01:24 AM
#40
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Originally Posted by bd0nalds0n
Now the bad news. I must've gotten a gasket askew during the reconnect, however, because I can hear sort of a whistling from the front passenger side of the manifold. Sigh. ...?
Sounds familiar!
Im living with mine for now busy with other things around here.
It runs and does so fast
12-20-2004, 01:27 AM
#41
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Originally Posted by GoRideSno
Yep and I'll try to get you a new gasket set out for next weekend too.
HTH,
Andy
HTH,
Andy
Gasket set?
What areas do yo have them cut for? Took me a while to do all that myself...trace...sharp exacto..hole punch and my wifes cutting board.
.
12-20-2004, 02:36 AM
#42
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@Brian,
What i've been doing is going to junkyards and yanking the connectors off other newer cars. Sure they're used connectors... but you can't beat $1/ea and they're a hell of alot better than 18 yr old connectors.
With the electrical tape fix... if you EVER run into the situation where your car dies and will not restart (no fuel situation), check your wires and make sure they aren't touching. Since the injectors share a common wire, shorting one shuts the whole thing down... had to find out the hard way...
What i've been doing is going to junkyards and yanking the connectors off other newer cars. Sure they're used connectors... but you can't beat $1/ea and they're a hell of alot better than 18 yr old connectors.
With the electrical tape fix... if you EVER run into the situation where your car dies and will not restart (no fuel situation), check your wires and make sure they aren't touching. Since the injectors share a common wire, shorting one shuts the whole thing down... had to find out the hard way...