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Looks like a nice setup Alan. I'm wrestling with the idea of having the canister separate from the engine plumbing. On the one hand, if there's a cabin fire you put it out first then connect whatever's left to the engine, which makes sense, but on the other hand it seems an engine fire is the most likely use, so it delays your response while you fumble with the connectors.
Tough choice I guess, yours is probably the best solution for the driver and passenger.
I'm not so convinced we can ever react very quickly to a fire... Just knowing you are on fire is actually quite difficult - it may be obvious to others far sooner than it is to you!
This is a reason for my interest in fire detection methods and even in pre-fire detection (combustibles leaks). Such a warning system could be used to disable the fan after-running for example which would help in deployment effectiveness as well as just alerting you to stop ASAP.
Once aware - you really do need to stop first under all conditions - consider how that is not always immediately practical (say you are in the carpool lane of a 6 lane freeway...) if you had a plumbed dedicated system you cannot effectively deploy it until you are stopped/engine off - to ensure whatever you are deploying goes where you want and ~stays there for long enough to be effective. This also helps stop the flow of fuel, oil, power steering fluid (whatever) and the supply of forced air. So - many seconds may have gone by already and you are likely still confused about what is going on? where is the fire? you probably don't really know yet...?
In my scenario I'd grab the extinguisher ~ 2-3 seconds due to the great BK mount - if its obvious its under the hood I don't need to even get out - just pull out the hose - plug in the extinguisher hose - it literally takes a second - you just push it in. Then pull the pin and deploy. The whole thing takes well less than 10 seconds from stopping. Given the need for a pull lever or interlocked electric release for a plumbed system (think where these would be) you'd likely be best case saving a few seconds (or none) in an event that to that point may easily take 20-30+ seconds anyway. Given the extra flexibility/utility of a handheld flex nozzle extinguisher I think there aren't many scenarios where you'd regret it.
In any case having ANY way to quickly deal with an under-hood fire without opening the hood is so much better than watching your pride & joy burn to the ground as you watch helplessly. My car is rare - it would be hard to replace - its also filled with custom stuff that I would never get compensated for - nor be easily able to replicate. So I have my plan if it comes to that. In the grand scheme of things the deployment system was one of the cheapest things I ever did to my car. The B-K extinguisher mount alone cost more than 10x the total cost of all the plumbing! Its so cheap to add to an extinguisher project - why wouldn't you ? (well it also takes a bit of planning & work of course..)
I found something that looks interesting; It's called 'BlazeCut Fire Suppression System" (http://WWW.JOGRUAS.Com/products/Blaz...ression-system)...
It's a one shot system but at $200 for 6 feet and $250 for 9 feet, it may be worth consideration...
Anyone know of this product?
BTW the final system (using a different extinguisher). I added the Brey-Krause quick release mount and added another mount plate - so I can have the extinguisher in either place - easiest to reach at the front, or when my wife is riding in the car for long I put it in the back (still reachable - but less comfortable). She says the extinguisher gets in the way of her preferred handbag location (easiest and best to just fix the problem) - you can persuade BK to sell you an extra mount!
Note the flex hose, quick release connector (locks to the fire port), and the flex hose organizer clips (hose just pulls out)
Amerex 2.5Lb Halon in B-K QR Mount to front pass seat
Same Extinguisher mounted on my alternate (wife friendly) B-K mount behind front pass seat
Detail of the B-K QR mount - its a work of art and works superbly - one handed, in one motion. The only downside is the $$$
Unobtrusive - but shoots forward right between the air intake tube & fuel rail drivers side
Unobtrusive - but shoots forward right between the air intake tube & fuel rail passenger side
Halon is heavier than air so blanketing from the top is good. Before deployment you really need to be stopped, with engine off and cooling fans NOT running - else all the halon will end up in a cloud behind you. That last part can be hard due to the fan after-running if the engine was really hot. I have not engineered the quick solution to that yet (I have a slow solution but that is really not much use).
Alan
Maybe I missed it earlier in the thread but where is the fire port located on the inside of the car?
EDIT: nevermind. I scrolled up two inches. lol. I like this set-up Alan. BTW I thought Halon was NLA and that only the less efficient halatron was available?
While Halon is no longer produced in the USA I think you can still buy recycled Halon 1211. There were massive commercial installations of Halon for computer rooms and other high value installation fire suppression systems that are now decommissioned (e.g. converted to Halotron/CO2 & the original Halon recovered). Halotron is really equally effective for such a commercial installation (you just need twice as much by volume and a 2x deployment rate (=> new nozzles & bigger tanks).
However for a car - needing only 1/2 the volume is a big deal so Halon is the premium choice.
To me - if you have a Halon/Halotron/CO2 extinguisher - you need this system - it would be crazy not to install one - to reduce deployment risks AND dramatically increase effectiveness.
Alan
PS meanwhile the BK mount is so cool you can score massive points with your buddies for having the coolest technology!
Must be a source for 1211 - as that’s what’s used in the aviation industry. Displaces O2, heavier than air and is effective against all types of fire. What it doesn’t do is provide any cooling. As mentioned previously you’d probably want a electrical kill switch to disable everything from the battery, otherwise not only would fluids be a source of (re)ignition but also melted electrical insulation shorting inside the engine bay if any fire takes hold. The electrics for the kill switch would need to be located in the battery bay. You definitely don’t want halon being sucked into the cabin via A/C...great for the eyes and lungs lol.
A battery switch is always a good idea - best at the rear battery ground point behind the tool panel (NOT in the battery well - too difficult/slow to get to). You have an engine kill switch already - ignition switch (and it does cut off most power under the hood).
I was under the impression that Halon wasn't so bad for you - except for the obvious problem - the fire you are trying to put out.
I was in a computer room back in the '80's when someone accidentally deployed the Halon system, (they thought the Big Red Button was the door release (!)). Sirens, red lights and a loud voice recording to evacuate the area immediately. I didn't need to be told twice. No after effects but it was a rather shocking experience. After that they moved the Big Red Button further away from the door and labelled it even more obviously...
07-29-2018, 12:38 AM
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