i'm getting the synchros done, and none of the three mechanics I spoke to were willing to remove the transmission from the car, so that left the job to me.

Well, here's how it's going:
day1: car up in the air, secure on stands
day2: exhaust away, no problems (these are short, 1 hour days...)
day3: driveshafts out, no problem, only time consuming... I also loosened all bolts holding the case to the TT. Even the top ones got out without lowering the tranny. I also decided to try to break loose the bolts holding the rear cross member to the car. 3 out of four came out, but the 4th one broke off.

Huston: we have a problem! I'm sure gonna have a lot of fun drilling that sucker out! Tips on this apprechiated!!!

Tonight I'm gonna remove the calipers and see if I can lower the whole rear axle assembly. If that works out, wrestling the transmission out of there should be plain sailing. (?)

BTW: how hard is it to pry the shift rod off of the transmission? I undid the small set screw, but it's still on there...

 

Not knowing anything about the auto repair customs in Norway, excuse the ignorance.
I read your post and was wondering why none of the mechanics would remove the tranny. My first assumption is that they are not farmiliar with the 928. Which leads me to ask why would you want them to work on it in the first place? It's great if they give you the option to save some $'s by doing some of the labor, but I would be at least a little scared.

Good luck

 

the three mechanics are the following:
-an independent Porsche specialist, working mainly on ail-cooled and 4-syl
-a member of the family,
-my car's previous owner

I trust all of them to work on my car, and they all have plausible reasons not to undertake the job...

 

how do I get the wires off this little sucker? Just pull them out?

 

I saw a Volvo documentary on TV recently and all the mechanics there were blondes in their 20's, 30's and 40's with nice figures. Makes me want to own a Volvo. NOW.

 

did they have bikinis, and identical wigs?

 

That sensor is for the back-up lights. I suggest un-screwing the whole sensor.

Not sure if you've found this tip: put some rope under the tranny and tie it tightly to the sway bar. Then you can take the cross member out, get the jack in, and lower the tranny. Put the two lower torque tube bolts back until you're ready to go.

The shifter linkage should come out fine once you have moved the tranny back a bit. Shift into 3rd and it'll pull the rod out of the coupler.

I recall a problem in re-assembling the splines on mine. Take a good look at the input shaft and clamp bolt. Make sure everything is lined up like you took it apart.

 

For the love of God take pics of this adventure for Christ's sake. Especially when you get into the tranny and deal with syncros replacement.

 

If I recall right there should be six bolts holding rear subframe to body. Four at ends, two on each side of car. Additional two bolts next to transmission mounts, one on each side. We had one of four on the side snap when taking them out in relatives '78. Fortunatelly it wasn't very difficult to get out remaining portion. Drilling hole to it for counter thread stud heated it up so much that it came out with bare hands. Hope you are as lucky. Back up light sensor wires should come out by just pulling but are very likely stuck real hard.

Do measure TT center shafts position compared to gearbox input shaft. It's not unheard of for TT shaft to move in manual gearbox cars. So current position might not be right one. Now would be excellent time to do TT bearings as well.

 

Erkka: TT bearings, what does that involve? Any special tools or skills? Are the parts expencive? How do I check if mine are going bad?

 

I would take out clutch and TT if I were you. Same time it's possible to check pilot bearing if needed. When clutch is out it's real easy to drop torque tube. This job takes only short while when you are so far already and cost in very small compared to gearbox rebuild. When you rotate the shaft there shouldn't be any grinding noises or anything like that from those bearings. I would change them recardless of their condition unless they where changed only few years ago. Very likely you will not be back there in many years if gearbox rebuild is successful. If you don't, they will fail less than week after car is back is together and running. That seems to be law of nature.

Once you have TT on the floor all you need to do is to take out center shaft, pull bearing carriers out, replace bearings and put them back. For real easy option see http://www.jageng.com/atmyservice.htm. Similar bearings should be available locally also and it's easy enough job to do with help from Rennlist archives. Plan is to do two of those ('78 5sp and GTS) during this winter. Haven't started yet so unfortunately no pictures until some months from now.

One problem with TT is that bearings seem to "walk" in TT tube and factory tried to solve the problem with some kind of glue it seems. I have planned on doing supports that would hold bearings on place. Exactly what kind of supports is not clear yet but hope is that it would be possible to keep original parts unmolested and this extra protection would just mount inside tube.

 

the clutch was rebuilt last winter by the previous owner. I'll ask him if he looked into the TT matters at all.

I plan to have the car on the road again this spring, so I'm in no hurry so far. Maybe you will catch up with me on your projects.

Do you know if I could get equivalent SKF bearings for example?

 

Also do ask if pilot bearing was changed or not. See archives for what fun it is to try to remove clutch when pilot bearing is broken and Shaft I can't be moved back making entire clutch stuck up there.

It should be possible to take TT out without removing clutch if you have suitable tools but it's goint to be very tight. You do need to remove lower part of the bellhousing to gain access to TT bolts from inside and there isn't much room in there.

Both TT and pilot bearing should be readily available from normal bearing shops. Can't remember if they are SKF, Ina or some other common brand but they are some normal sizes. On TT bearings you might have problem of not finding ones with correct C-rating what ever that is. All I know is that it prefers to how loose bearing is and larger the number more loose it is. Originals are C4 and replacements found locally in here C3 ratings. Not sure how significant difference is and are bearings available from USA correct type or not.

IMHO it's easier to put TT and gearbox back together on the floor including gear lever adjustment and then lift up entire assembly in one unit. If you take rear suspension entirely out of the way it's also easier to drop them like that.

 

Hi Gruffalo,

if you check this thread there are some pictures of my gearbox swap.
I built a support frame of wood for the gearbox since I was working alone.

https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...hlight=GEARBOX

Good luck with the rebuild.

Cheers/Peter

 

OK, the saga continues:
day 4: road wheels off, calipers off and suspended in wires, nuts on the upper end of the struts removed. The last four bolts on the crossmember also out. time 1 hour , total approx. 5 hours so far.

Now I the good fun starts, to lower the entire rear axle and wrestle the transmission out of there. All nuts an bolts are either out or somewhat undone at this stage.

Well there are little things as the handbrake cable, bacup light and speedo wires, rear brake pad wear wires etc. still to come off.

With some luck the transmission lump should be out in less than one hour of work.

If anybody is interested, I can post som pictures.