redidrum

Anyone out there have detailed instructions on changing a 928 Head gasket? I have a friend in Arizona that appears to have blown his, but, won't dive in until he gets all of the details.

Please help?

Thanks,

Ron

GlenL

African or European?

redidrum

I know it is not a Euro. I have very little info. so far. Waiting on an e-mail. Update later today.

GlenL

There is a lot of differences between the 16 valve cars, the 85-86 and the S4 engines.

Frankly haven't seen a how-to on the head gaskets themselves. Those are the "easy part" once the intake, FI system and T-belt is removed.

Jim bailey - 928 International

Redi...."appears to have blown his"..... white smoke or oil in the coolant ?? If the latter and the car has an engine oil cooler heat exchanger in the radiator it may be a failed cooler and NOT a head gasket. It is not very common for the 928 to have head gasket problems . Difficulty of replacement of a head gasket depends on which engine 78-84 is not too bad, 85-86 first remove engine, 87> can be done in the car but if you opt to do both heads real men pull the engine ! If one head gasket failed the other has had the same experiences and may not be far behind. This is one thing which can be misdiagnosed and more than one owner has been sold a head gasket repair only to be told later "Oh and the radiator is bad too, Musta got over pressured by the exhaust" Get more information.

John V

Jim,

I have a related question on head gaskets. I've been contemplating trying sleeves in the block and running larger pistons (4.060"). Can a standard head gasket, or one from another standard application, be used without infringing into the larger Bore? I know some guys have talked about running 104 or 105mm pistons from another Porsceh engine... I would presume they have had to ask the same question?

Also, is there a sketch or better explanation of your solution to the 2/6 crank oiling problem? I understand the general approach but not enough to try it. Do the old holes get welded partially/ completely?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Rich9928p

Well, this is as major of a job as it gets. If your friend plans to keep his/her 928, both head gaskets should probably be replaced (why did the one go bad?). The engine should be pulled from the car and the whole top end must be diassembled. While you're there, the oil pan should also be pulled and the rod bearings replaced. Depending upon the wear and miles, a valve and ring job may be justified because the pan is off and labor is minimal at that point.

If this person isn't an experienced mechanic with a lot of metric tools, I'd suggest taking it to a good 928 shop for the job. My shop, Exotic Motorwerks, rebuilds 928 motors and does an excellent job.

rixter

pic from one of my 79s, po decided it was cheaper to continue putting in oil than replacing head gasket, end result...

Jim bailey - 928 International

The 4 cylinder 3 liter 968 (944) uses 104 mm pistons and the head gasket with one minor modification works on the 928 block. There are also custom aftermarket heavy duty metallic gaskets being used on some of the supercharged engines. The crank drilling is NOT SIMPLY CROSS DRILLING but creating a new alternative path from the 2nd main bearing (which must be grooved) to feed forward to #2,#6 rod bearing journal . Taylor Engines of Whittier Ca. who drills them for us simply calls it "drilled like a Chevy". All the Scat stroker cranks are also drilled like a Chevy since that is what they make thousands of each year ,Chevy cranks.

John V

Jim,

Thank you for your help.

CWO4Mann

I can fax page 15-7 from the shop manual to you. It has a general description of gasket removal. If you need more, I imagine you will need the rest of the Engine and Gasket work from Vol 7 (Engine). That looks like about 45 pages on both sides.

HTH,

Dave

CWO4Mann

I know you sent me an email with the fax number in it but I can't find it. Holy Crap! I've been watching Futurama too much. Please tell me the fax number again! Sorry ...

Cheers,

Dave

UKKid35

There are a number of tools that are pretty much essential:

Valve Spring Compressor
Valve Stem Seal Removers
Valve Stem Seal Seating tool
Cam Shaft Seal tool
Dial Guage with magnetic base and/or mounting plate

There are at least four major procedures involved that are well documented online:

Intake Removal
Cam Belt
Valve Cover Removal
Cam Timing

You also need the WSM, lots of time and cash, and friends to help when you drop things down oil ways and generally get stuck, as well as Rennlist for support and advice.

redidrum

I signed up my friend to Rennlist with the problem. He may be jumping in here soon. His handle id "Greg V" from Arizona. He has a 1988 S-4. Claims that his oil is milky colored. Sounds like head gasket to me.

Thanks,

Ron

NoVector

Ron
I'll be joining your friend. I've noticed I now have this really cool white vapor trail behind my car... I'm also losing about a pint of water every 100 miles. I removed each of my plugs to see where things might be going wrong. Sure enough, the insulator nose on plug 3 is gone (nothing left but the wire). A friend said that's from it overheating; probably due to the steam. My friend also suggested a good starting point is to re-tork the head bolts. After 20+ years, I don't think thats it...

First time I've ever done a project this big. No doubt, this is my first post of what I'm sure will be many as I start to do this. Uhg!

Paul - You only need all those tools if you're going to refurbish the head, not to just remove it and replace the gasket, right?