v-tach

i noted a warped pass side a-pillar so i pulled it off -to find rust underneath. so i left the apillar off to see if i could trace a leak - in the rain , after car washing -- water sits in the corner of the windsheild and then somehow trickles down to below the glove box. i pulled of all the molding around the window and saw that the seal looks very dry and rotted.i was able to reproduce water on the inside of the car using a water hose to the windsheild. the windsheild is in good shape - i wonder if i should take it completely out, clean the old junk then reset the windsheild or just try to clean it best while its in and reseal ???
anyone have experience with safelite ???
thanks
v-tach
p.s. seems like one problem after the other..

v-tach

bump

Sab

I had the same problem. I had someone pull the windshield and attempt to reseal with the old glass. It was already back in when it cracked... bought a new one and it has never leaked again. I do not remember the brand, but was around $300.00.
regards,
Sab.

docmirror

I PMed this to v-tach, but others may want to get in on it. Sometimes I'm reluctant to spray the list with remedies I've cobbled from other cars, but they seem to relate quite well. The glass is available if needed, but v-tach gets first right of refusal. I was going to use it when I do a bare metal respray, but after further inspection my car probably won't need it. If it doesn't go, I'll just use it when I repaint, I've done it before on other cars, it's tedious work, but usually successful.
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You will need to remove the windshield, as the rust/oxidation has gotten under the seal, not through the glass side. The glass to seal bond rarely fails, it's always the seal to metal frame. The metal has to be very clean when the glass is installed, and even then, it will eventually rust/oxidize through.

I've done several vintage cars that had the same problem. I see it all the time when I lived in Denver, due to the heat, cold, wet, dry, snow, rain mix.

Once you decide to fix it, cut the seal out with a carpet knife, and try to remove the glass slowly. If it doesn't break you can try to use it again. Clean and etch the windshield channel in the pillars and across the bottom. Get all the rust out, and go down to hard metal. Etch it again with acid, and you can use JB Weld to fix the holes or rough spots. Grind and sand smooth, then have a glass shop put your windshield back in with a new seal.

About 65% of the time the glass breaks on removal, about 20% it breaks on installation. Allow the glass to thermally stabalize before starting work. If working outside don't work in the sunlight.

I think I have a really nice used windshield if you need it(probably will). You can have it for $95 plus shipping from Houston. New glass is > $300 plus shipping. Good luck. Let me know.

Sab

In my case there was no rust or any sort of oxidation on the frame, but the old seal was completely deteriorated.