Wheel lock removal options
#1
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Okay. I give up.
PO never supplied the "key" to the alloy locks on my S4. I've got the one piece ones, without the tumbler. You know, the ones that snap off when you try to turn them with a wrench or socket. It took me four hours to remove a single one last week, drilling and chiseling.
Now I'm trying to remove another one. I tapped a socket over the head of the lock, and tried to remove it with an impact wrench. The head snapped off, broke the socket, and left the "collar" around the wheel stud, deep inside the wheel. There must be an easier way. Musn't there?
PO never supplied the "key" to the alloy locks on my S4. I've got the one piece ones, without the tumbler. You know, the ones that snap off when you try to turn them with a wrench or socket. It took me four hours to remove a single one last week, drilling and chiseling.
Now I'm trying to remove another one. I tapped a socket over the head of the lock, and tried to remove it with an impact wrench. The head snapped off, broke the socket, and left the "collar" around the wheel stud, deep inside the wheel. There must be an easier way. Musn't there?
#2
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go to your local junk yard or towing company or body shop and borrow or purchase there kit for wheel locks. Yes there is a kit for this problem but unless you own a shop its hard to come by since the guys that steal wheels also use the same kit.
Lou
83 928 5speed
Lou
83 928 5speed
#5
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option 1
http://www.matcotools.com/Catalog/to...&page=3ꜛ
option 2
Any good wheel shop will have these tools.
option 3
If they are mcgards any Porsche dealer has the 30 key "masters set". They can remove the locks
or tell you the key number and you can order a new key for $16. http://www.mcgard.com/
Ordering a new key (and 1 new lock) is the way to go!
http://www.matcotools.com/Catalog/to...&page=3ꜛ
option 2
Any good wheel shop will have these tools.
option 3
If they are mcgards any Porsche dealer has the 30 key "masters set". They can remove the locks
or tell you the key number and you can order a new key for $16. http://www.mcgard.com/
Ordering a new key (and 1 new lock) is the way to go!
Last edited by Greggles; 10-17-2004 at 07:49 PM.
#6
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Official procedure is to get a hole saw just big enough to go over the stud/lug without cutting the threads, and drill through the nut......
as above, good luck, and our sympathy is with you. Get the syle of locking nuts that has one with a special keyed socket on each wheel. Never had a problem with mine so far.
jp 83 Euro S AT 48k
as above, good luck, and our sympathy is with you. Get the syle of locking nuts that has one with a special keyed socket on each wheel. Never had a problem with mine so far.
jp 83 Euro S AT 48k
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#8
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Car is currently up on jacks (can't be driven), and I've got two wheels to go (6-8 hrs. unless I find a better way).
The locks I have are the ones without a lock cylinder (nothing to pick). They're not McGards either. The "key" is an oversized socket that goes over the stud, deep into the wheel, to the base of the lock nut. The inside ridges on the "key" socket, mate to the outer slots on the base of the wheel lock, allowing removal with a lug wrench. I think they are common. I'll try the hole saw approach.
If you hear a scream, I went too deep.
The locks I have are the ones without a lock cylinder (nothing to pick). They're not McGards either. The "key" is an oversized socket that goes over the stud, deep into the wheel, to the base of the lock nut. The inside ridges on the "key" socket, mate to the outer slots on the base of the wheel lock, allowing removal with a lug wrench. I think they are common. I'll try the hole saw approach.
If you hear a scream, I went too deep.
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These are not the original S4 locks, but comer with a 930 part number if they are the same ones I now have on my S4. I can't imagine an owner not keeping the key/socket someplace in the car on the off chance there's a flat or maybe a brake service needed someday.
Have you checked in the usual suspect places? Those would be in the pouch with the jack, either in the tool panel or in the spare-wheel area. Might also have been put in the glove box, ashtray, or underdash tray. Mine is zip-tied to a torque wrench that rides along in place of the factory lug wrench. Do some searching and you may find it before you sacrifice $50+ worth of locks and a few days of work.
Phone call to the PO possible?
Just some random thoughts...
Have you checked in the usual suspect places? Those would be in the pouch with the jack, either in the tool panel or in the spare-wheel area. Might also have been put in the glove box, ashtray, or underdash tray. Mine is zip-tied to a torque wrench that rides along in place of the factory lug wrench. Do some searching and you may find it before you sacrifice $50+ worth of locks and a few days of work.
Phone call to the PO possible?
Just some random thoughts...
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The "key" is an oversized socket that goes over the stud, deep into the wheel, to the base of the lock nut. The inside ridges on the "key" socket, mate to the outer slots on the base of the wheel lock, allowing removal with a lug wrench.
Did you go through the car's records, most owners keep the code to order a new key
#11
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It does look like the McGard.
PO (pronounced POS), doesn't return calls or Emails.
I've looked over every square inch of the car. No key.
When lowering the car, after chiseling off the last lock, the "key" will fall out of the wheel well. You know how those things work.
PO (pronounced POS), doesn't return calls or Emails.
I've looked over every square inch of the car. No key.
When lowering the car, after chiseling off the last lock, the "key" will fall out of the wheel well. You know how those things work.