Brett/Donald,
Correcto mundo.
The 928-608-013-00 number is the tank pump that I couldn't figure which model it went on.
The other pumps had numbers similar, but the early models 78-79's started with 911, or, 930
which, I think, indicate parts common to the 911 series Porsches - I could be wrong-.
Examples: 911-608-102-00, or, 911-608-102-02, or 930-608-113-00
These numbers carried the additional specific numbers I listed previously, #984, #967, #979,
respectively. I think these additional numbers might determine several other things like pump flow in lph/gpm, body length of pump, fitting type, or maybe type and location of check valve. These additional numbers were also on all of the later stock numbered items starting with 928...
Maybe a Big Three Parts Guru can explain the system to this stockage neophyte. In any case it looks like they are set up like a military parts system with a stock number and a seperate identifier for a specific parts nomenclature. Forgot to ask, are you going to try to use the recently replaced pump?
I'd give it a try.
Before you button up the in-line pump cover run it to make sure it doesn't leak and don't Gorrilla Grip those fittings, Pattycakes' PO caused the loss of some of my blood and knuckle meat overtightening those connectors. Enjoy

 

Most early S-4s do not have an in tank prepump but use a simple screen filter with very large mesh. The screen filter has a flat surface on the end of the tube filter away from the outlet if the filter breaks free from the outlet pipe it floats around in the gas tank and IF it happens to get sucked up to the outlet pipe the flat end can block the outlet and then the main pump is not happy. Shut off the car, add fuel ,etc. and the screen may float away from the drain.......for awhile . Also some percentage of the time when you remove an intank pump or filter the threads on the filter may grab the threaded metal ring molded in the tank (corrosion ?) and cause it to spin. At which point you need a NEW gas tank it will never seal again . By removing the fuel level sending unit on top of the tank (under the black plastic circle in the cargo area) you can look into the tank to see IF there is a problem with the screen filter or any "junk" in the tank.

 

The resistance reading between pins 6 and 3 of the MAF is for the idle mixture pot, which isn't wired in circuit for your car - which has cats/O2.

 

Thanks Mr. Speake.
Maybe that's why that particular circuit (?) is still within spec. And Dave was still correct in saying my MAF is on the way out!

Thanks again Jim,
I'll go out right now, and try to get the sender nut off, and take a look into the tank!

Again, thanks to all for the input!!!!!

Yes, the battery IS disconnected.......

 

OK, got the sender off and out of the tank. Peared around the inside of the tank. I do not see a pump body inside the tank.
Where the sender sits inside the tank, down on the bottom of the tank, there is a raised circular platform(?),that has a hole in the middle of it, to allow the bottom of the sender unit to sit into, and down in the middle of the hole, somewhat against the bottom of the tank, is what looks like a screen, it sure flexed like a screen, when I touched it with a long extention, the diameter of the screen, looks to be about the size of a quarter?

I am glad I did decide to have the tank flushed; all over the bottom of the tank, is what appears to be metal flakes!!!! Some of 'em look to be rusty. How the HECK did they get in there???!!!???

Now, once I get the tank dropped, to see if I can get the screen nut off the tank, without spinning the fitting

 

update;
Got the in tank filter screen off, and I didn't spin the tank fitting, my shark does not have the in-tank fuel pump.
Tom F. loaned me another MAF, and told me it came off a running car; it reads 303 ohms, on the "5 and 3 terminals" ( 3.6...4.1 ohms ), so maybe the MAF isn't the problem? Mine was 258 ohms.

Funny thing, when I got the screen off, it had a Purolator name and part # on it, and Jeannie says that is someone's cheapness showing, the Purolator part isn't correct. And I can't find anyone who can tell me what the part # is, or can find it in the Purolator catalogue!

Say, has anyone got a manufacturer and part # for a fuel gauge, to mount semi-permanently on the fuel rail? After talking with Tom F. and Dave, I'm wondering if I have other fuel supply problems!

Hmm, where is the fuel pressure regulator located?

Oh yeah, after getting the tank drained and out, after a little drying out, that green slime showed up, inside the tank! YIKES!!! I'm EXTRA glad I decided to have the tank flushed!!!

Anybody have other ideas about what else I need to do, to have a completely clean fuel system? I have been using the Techron products.....

 

Brett,
About two years ago there was a string of Air fuel mixture(AFM) install
threads re; ARM-1 -I even queried one-. Eventually, there were the inevitable
dash install, and under hood flicks. This in turn led people to wonder
what 'that gauge' was on the end of the fuel rail -usually mounted on the Pass. side-.
So there was some associated description of thread /hardware types ect... on the Fuel pressure gauge (FPG) where it connected to the rail.
Check archives ...its in there somewhere.
I think the fuel pressure regulator(s) (FPR), I think two in your case, were brought up
within the past year. I'm pretty sure there were some flicks refering to location
(rear of engine, methinks) on the SC threads when there were questions concerning fuel volume/pressure requirements when SC'ing and the addition of the Ford injectors.
This topic also in the archives.