I put Rejex on my wifes car 2 weeks ago and applied as described. Wash the car two weeks later and shine is still good although I some water spots. I will see once I do my car and do it with extra care. **** did I say that out loud. I will just say I am glad I bought 2 bottles at once.

 

I hate water spots more than microscratches.

Harvey

 

I applied it to my marble grey car which immediately felt and looked like greased lightning. Waited a day as prescribed. Drove in the Seattle sun (read: dirty sprinkles of acid rain and bird droppings mixed with crap from third runway trucks and two inches of chebby oil on the roads) ... and ...

It all beaded nicely but when it dried .... White spots all over the car. YUK.

So, I washed her again the next Sunday. She came very nice and clean though the usaual trouble spot, ie the fender down low, there was ingrained dirt I could not remove (this fender was clean before). Beading was awesome. Felt still like velvet. And all the white spots are gone.

One thing: the rear girlie-skirt spoiler is showing much the same white streaking as it does with all other polishes.

 

Oh yes ... it's an '85. All-in-all this is a superior product to anything I've used before, except maybe 3M Hand Glaze or Machine Glaze, which is a very much harder -feeling product. Jury's still out.

 

I haven't used the Rejex and probably won't. I think the results you get will be very much dependant on the condition of your paint going in. From the reports I've read, it seems that the guys with newer paint have the best results (and they seem very good) and the ones that have older paint jobs, or paint in tougher shape don't seem to get quite as good shine or have to deal with spots or streaking. My paint is in pretty sad shape so I think my results would be disapointing. IMHO.
Glenn

 

Glenn, my 911 has very old paint which oxidises easily. Try getting it up to snuff with 3M, and alfter that maybe rejex or similar .....

 

I had sort of a similar thought , that I would need to have a profesional cut polish or something. But I've got so many rock chips, scratches and sand-blasted areas that I think it would be a waste.
Glenn

 

I get great results using the Mequiers Scatch remover and then following with Mequiers Clear Coat Wax. The scratch remover takes out the HAZY look that I've heard guys complain about with the Rejex. My paint is very deep rich Blue.

After working on and building Aluninum Aircraft for 27 years, I do know a lot about corrosion inhibiting products. I am an FAA Licensed Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic by trade. The most important part of inhibiting it is using the correct CLAD Aluminum from the beginning and prepping the undercoat with zinc chromate and then use LPS-3 Spray on top of that. Non- Clad, cheaper material, has the most problems. If we could all get a hold of LPS-3 spray, I believe these skins would last for years from the inside out.

I know that the biggest concern for everyone is the "WET" look on the exterior, but, why not pay attention to the interior for preventive purposes first.

Illinois Toolworks has LPS-3 Products at 1-800-241-8334

My Opinion...

Ron

 

Ron, I'd be interested in learning more .. thanks.

 

I forgot to add that the application and removal was awesome.

 

I've been a life-long fan of Mequier's products (and still use them), but I admit I have purchased a few bottles of Rejex and hope to test it on the non-P car very soon.