You might also check out www.superbrightleds.com they have 42mm 6 led festoons in various colors, the white ones are $3.50ea.

 

Mark - where did you put your LED's? You mentioned the 42mm. Did you have to mod them to fit the inside door lights?
Borland said, "For the overhead and inside door lights, I used the "44mm long 9 LED Super White" festoons. Make sure you file the solder ends to a point before installation.".
Has anyone replaced the under-the-hood light with an LED? If so, what size did you use?

 

I want LED tail and stop lights!!!!!!!!!!! Does anybody make a replacment for our bulbs back there?

 

So who would be a leading future maker of LED type lighting for residentail/commercial use. $$$$

 

These guys have the right sizes.
https://www.accessorysourcedirect.co.../Lighting.html

Someone once brought up the concern that the LED's wont have the correct resistance to keep the central warning light from tripping.

 

Superbrightleds.com (the link that Mark87AT posted above) had this:

"LOAD RESISTOR KITS

One LOAD Resistor is required for each turn signal bulb

6 Ohm, 50 Watt resistors can be connected across the turn signal bulbs to simulate the load of a regular filament bulb (2 Amp load). This will solve LED related turn signal problems such as hyper flashing or burnt out bulb indications. Resistor measures 1.96L x .64W x .60H inches, leads are 12 inches long.
Kit Includes gel filled moisture resistant splice taps.

CONNECTION INSTRUCTIONS: Using included splice taps, connect one wire to ground and the other wire to the turn/brake hot wire. Splice taps allow for installation without cutting your turn signal wires."

 

I got a bunch of LED turn signal and brake lights a couple of years ago (brightest I could find at the time), ran them for a couple of months, and wound up putting incandescent bulbs back in. The LEDs weren't bright enough, and the beam pattern just wasn't spread out enough.

The ones I got were LEDtronics bulb assemblies (various AUT1156 and AUT1157 series).





They also carry load resistors to keep the lamp monitoring system happy. I never tried these. I figured if I was happy with the LED bulbs, I'd probably dig into the bulb monitoring system box and see if I could modify it to work with the lower-draw LED bulbs. As it turns out, I gave up on the LED bulbs, so this wasn't an issue anymore.

 

Ed has nailed it,
LED's are great in some applications due to their luminous efficiency (they convert a much bigger percentage of the power they consume to light rather than to heat) - but they have some major downsides.

1) They do not produce-omni directional light so cannot typically be focussed by a reflector
(at least not the ones used for incandescent bulbs) they typically rely on individual lenses.

2) Total light output of a single LED is much lower than many commonly available bulbs - so
multiple LED's are required for replacements of bulbs of > a few watts. High output individual
or multiple LED's are expensive from 3-10x the cost of an equivalent bulb. This makes them most
effective for areas where bulb replacement is hard (most auto bulbs are actually fairly easy to
replace)

3) LED's can appear very bright when the beam is tightly focussed - however this leads to serious
non-linearity of light output off that beam of focus - this can be a serious issue - only slightly
eased by the lens diffuser patterns in the housing.

4) The LED light output color is now available in many more colors than previously but some are
still much more efficient than others (check). The bright white colors will not match incandescent
bulbs (which will be much more yellow) - so you probably will need to swap all bulbs of a particular
type to avoid color differences. (e.g marker lights & brake lights)

5) Since LED's use a lot less current than an 'equivalent' bulb - bulb monitoring systems will likely
think a bulb has blown and will issue a warning. You can disable the monitor somehow or fit a
balancing resistor. If you do this all the better efficiency of the LED is lost since you simply
dissipate power as heat in the power resistor to match the eqivalent bulb. Adding the cost of the
power resistor further increases the cost differential....

The good news - for indicator bulbs - say in the dash - where its hard to change and where heat from the bulbs can cause yellowing issues - this can be a great (but essentially do it yourself) solution. For the main dashbord switches - LED plug in replacements are available - great! For the interior lights where the lighting desired is almost uni-directional they can also work quite well (and no bulb monitoring to worry about)

For outside lighting its a lot more expensive & less obviously a fully successful replacement.

My recommendation:

Use for dashboard indicators wherever possible
Use for interior lights - works pretty well (no bulb monitor)
Consider for center brake lamp - its basically uni-directional already
(need balance resistor somewhere)
Consider for Side Markers - they are a pain to change

Having thought about doing it - I wouldn't bother with the others - bulbs are easy, cheap and actually work very well.

Alan

 

"I want LED tail and stop lights!!!!!!!!!!! Does anybody make a replacment for our bulbs back there?"

Pep boys has those.

 

I'm on to it! Was just sniffing around to see what people had tried on 993's. I think the speed at which LED's respond is extremely eye catching. I've made one superb bulb, just got to make another now!
If anyone wants to PM me you may be able to evaluate on a 928.