Rob Roy

Due to travel I haven't been able to do any work on the car, but I am now able to concentrate on pulling the motor. I am now like at step 25 or so out of 50 in the WSM with only one task left under the car.

I don't have the WSM here, but there is a clamp secured by 2 allen head bolts between the (IIRC) clutch and the torque tube. I have the bolts loosened completely but it won't budge - so this weekend I plan on heating it and trying to move it. Unless I missed it, I don't think the manual specifies which way to move the clamp - forward or backward - can any one tell me?

Also, does anyone know the size of the oil to radiator lines attachment nuts - I don't think I have anything large enough in my tool collection to remove so I'll have to pick something up?

Any other advice or gotchas would also be helpful.

Cheers

Gretch

I believe I used a large adjustable wrench on the oil lines.....I have not pulled a TT, can't help there.

AngelP

I'm guessing you mean the splined sleeve clamp which connects the intermediate shaft to the main shaft. I haven't heard of it getting stuck on anyone before.
Try levering off some nearby part, it should slide back allowing you to drop the clutch assembly..

GlenL

To move the clamp the bolts must be removed. They go through grooves in the shafts. Then the clamp is slid towards the rear to free the intermediate shaft.

When you pull the engine, look for the wire harness that is attached to the engine cross-member below the left side of the engine. It goes to the starter. Several people, including myself, have missed that until trying to lift the car by it.

While I'm at it: I had my oil lines rebuilt by Pirtek. That's a franchise operation that may be in your area. $38 out the door. Take a note on how the fittings are oriented and how long the hoses are. They got the orientation right on mine but the hoses are about an inch too long. Surprising how that made it hard to get them back in as the new hose is pretty stiff.

One more: I looked in the PET and believe that the 4.7l rebuild kit, like for an '84 US, will work for the 4.7l CIS engine. That is if the Reinz kit includes the parts presribed for it in the PET. Two years ago I got the 78-79 kit and added 4.7l head gaskets. That was expensive. The kit would be cheaper. The kit I got looked to be complete vis-a-vis the PET description as I had a lot of things left over especially crush rings.

Rob Roy

Yes - thank you - the splinrd sleeve clamp. I guess I'll keep working on it.

Rob Roy

I didn't fully remove the bolts - that must be the answer . I'll try that this weekend.

Thanks for the rebuild info, however I'm not going to rebuild this engine, my plan is replacing it with a 32 valve (followed by a S/C) so it will probably be up on the market soon. It is a M28/09 - from a 5 speed euro (sorry - not an S). It was running real well when I got it, but given the grime, I'm sure there were some (minor) oil leaks. I'll be able to more thouroughly inspect it once it is pulled.

Thanks for the replies - this is trully an awesome board!!