Paint opinions wanted, early models -contrast.
08-24-2004, 05:57 AM
#1
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Paint opinions wanted, early models -contrast.
During our recent reconstruction of my son's white 81' I elected to do the front bumper cover repaint myself.
The actual repair was done by the paint shop for a paltry $140.00 but it was a rough finish and still had the multitude of ever-present rock chips. The shop wanted over $325.00 to finish the nose cover and an additional $480.00 to color match the hood which would not include removal/installation.
The estimate was handed to me by a straight-faced and solemn shop owner.
I'd hate to play poker with the likes of him!
Anyhow, the cost of the 'correct paint' was prohibitive for the size of the job...
SOoooooo...
I ended up with 2 multi-packs of sandpaper -#320 - #1000 grit-, 2 cans of sandable primer, 2 cans of finish primer, 1 qt of cleaner/de-greaser, and 3 cans of acryic enamal -white, and not a bad match at all-.
Long story - short version - the job came out gorgeous.
All luck!
However, after repairing the black, left front turn/running/fog trim I realized that Zack's white 81' looked pretty darned good without the contrasting black trim. Furthermore, I knew that the later models -I'm assuming models after 86.5 MY- with the different front facia/bumper covers looked ...well different and after scanning Ebay and member sites/other links I noticed thay were all color matched with no apparent light trim. I think that painting the black trim white would improve 'the look' of the white 81'. I am seeking opinions from BTDT folks and, of course, Nicole and Pierre as well as interested others.
A cosideration:
Currently, there is no spoiler, black or otherwise, though the grill will remain black so there shouldn't IMO be a sudden clump of black paint at the bottom of the front end as opposed to the slight contrasting transition using the black trim at the outer-midpoint of the bumper cover.
TIA
The actual repair was done by the paint shop for a paltry $140.00 but it was a rough finish and still had the multitude of ever-present rock chips. The shop wanted over $325.00 to finish the nose cover and an additional $480.00 to color match the hood which would not include removal/installation.
The estimate was handed to me by a straight-faced and solemn shop owner.I'd hate to play poker with the likes of him!
Anyhow, the cost of the 'correct paint' was prohibitive for the size of the job...
SOoooooo...
I ended up with 2 multi-packs of sandpaper -#320 - #1000 grit-, 2 cans of sandable primer, 2 cans of finish primer, 1 qt of cleaner/de-greaser, and 3 cans of acryic enamal -white, and not a bad match at all-.
Long story - short version - the job came out gorgeous.
All luck!
However, after repairing the black, left front turn/running/fog trim I realized that Zack's white 81' looked pretty darned good without the contrasting black trim. Furthermore, I knew that the later models -I'm assuming models after 86.5 MY- with the different front facia/bumper covers looked ...well different and after scanning Ebay and member sites/other links I noticed thay were all color matched with no apparent light trim. I think that painting the black trim white would improve 'the look' of the white 81'. I am seeking opinions from BTDT folks and, of course, Nicole and Pierre as well as interested others.
A cosideration:
Currently, there is no spoiler, black or otherwise, though the grill will remain black so there shouldn't IMO be a sudden clump of black paint at the bottom of the front end as opposed to the slight contrasting transition using the black trim at the outer-midpoint of the bumper cover.
TIA
08-24-2004, 06:48 AM
#2
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My opinion: I think painting the black trim makes the car look like it had a cheap paint job done to it. like someone didn't bother to mask it off properly. I'd stick to the original color scheme.
just my 2 cents
MM
just my 2 cents
MM
08-24-2004, 06:53 AM
#3
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You painted the bumper and hood with a spray can??? We should start betting when it will start to crack and peel on the front bumper and become dull on the hood... 
You need to use REAL automotive paint for such stuff, with the right amount of softerner for the bumper. Everything else will look different from the rest pretty soon, and you'll have to do it all over again. Get a Wagner power sprayer or something, if you want to go really cheap, and wet sand and polish the paint when you're done. Then at least you have a surface similar to the rest of the car (and might find yourself doing more areas and touch-ups).
I have a small airbrush, which I use to touch up the interior leather and have used for a pretty large area on the fender of my previous 928. If I would not tell you i did that, you'd never know! I have to go at it again soon, thank god only for small rock chips. Maybe a winter occupation...
I don't know how good or bad it would look with the white trim around the front lights. I fear that it would be too much white, and the area of the lights would no longer look like one unit, but rather be broken up into multiple little spots in the white area. So, unless I'd see it on a car and really, really liked it, I would not do it.
You need to use REAL automotive paint for such stuff, with the right amount of softerner for the bumper. Everything else will look different from the rest pretty soon, and you'll have to do it all over again. Get a Wagner power sprayer or something, if you want to go really cheap, and wet sand and polish the paint when you're done. Then at least you have a surface similar to the rest of the car (and might find yourself doing more areas and touch-ups).
I have a small airbrush, which I use to touch up the interior leather and have used for a pretty large area on the fender of my previous 928. If I would not tell you i did that, you'd never know! I have to go at it again soon, thank god only for small rock chips. Maybe a winter occupation...
I don't know how good or bad it would look with the white trim around the front lights. I fear that it would be too much white, and the area of the lights would no longer look like one unit, but rather be broken up into multiple little spots in the white area. So, unless I'd see it on a car and really, really liked it, I would not do it.
08-24-2004, 11:47 AM
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Nicole,
You CAN purchase real automotive paint in a spray can. Right down to the correct primer, color coat and clear coats. With painting, it's pretty much all in the prep work and technique. I have finally started to do the repaint on my front bumper and I am using spray cans exclusively. I purchased all of the items through PaintScratch.com and they custom mix the paint to the manufacturers specs and in case of doing the bumpers, add the flex agent to the paint.
I have shot a test door panel with all of the products and then performed the color sanding, buffing and finally the polishing. All I can say is that I hope the real car looks as good. If you don't wish to use a spray can, then invest in a good HVLP system and just purchase the paint by the pint or the quart. I would not hesitate to recommend spray cans over a Wagner Power Painter.
Rob
You CAN purchase real automotive paint in a spray can. Right down to the correct primer, color coat and clear coats. With painting, it's pretty much all in the prep work and technique. I have finally started to do the repaint on my front bumper and I am using spray cans exclusively. I purchased all of the items through PaintScratch.com and they custom mix the paint to the manufacturers specs and in case of doing the bumpers, add the flex agent to the paint.
I have shot a test door panel with all of the products and then performed the color sanding, buffing and finally the polishing. All I can say is that I hope the real car looks as good. If you don't wish to use a spray can, then invest in a good HVLP system and just purchase the paint by the pint or the quart. I would not hesitate to recommend spray cans over a Wagner Power Painter.
Rob
08-24-2004, 12:32 PM
#5
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I must agree with Rob. I have used automotive paints in spray cans to paint and touch up areas of my 914/6 (Irish Green) with great success, and for considerably less than the cost of a shop. I have used Preval sprayers to do lots of touch up work and engine sheet metal work using automotive urethane paints that have been on for years with no noticeable compromises. Of course it IS in the prep and also in application and mucho patience. I just used a Preval sprayer to dye some vinyl upholstery (Nicole knows the piece that I use as a "glove" to protect the driver's seat bolster)and my only complaint was that I didn't use a dulling agent and it came out shinier than I would like. I did that in my office as a break from work. So far, it has held up well, and I slide in and out against it daily. 
08-24-2004, 12:51 PM
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The Black helps to set the contrast of the lines on the 928 and when painted to match the car tend to shrink the car. Also giving it a rather tacky look. IMHO.
Richard
Richard
08-25-2004, 12:10 AM
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Nicole,
Puhlease!
I didn't paint the hood only the nose.
The acrylic enamal is a very flexible paint. I used it often -in the past on a small mountain of motorcycle fairings, side covers, and tailcones. I foam block sanded the entire nose piece with the afore-mentioned multi pack but did not break the primer base and am not worried at all about separation.
The hood will get ye olde automotive clearcoat finish. I do appreciate the concern of color "fading' over time with an eventual possibility of noticeably mismatching. Red's and metallics are of particular concern, with pearl's being a close third for matching.
Sand scratch swelling and orange peel would have shown up by now.
I do have a setof pro-bink's guns and access to compressor/separators/regulators and large quite air bay's with dual four foot adjustible speed fan evacuators -sorry, no downdrafts or waterfall system-. Bottom line is the cost of paint for such a small job.
The hood which probably has an equivalant surface area to the nose piece but is wide and flat which makes it considerably more difficult to paint due to nozzel spray pattern width and consequent overspray/rough finish issues. It could be done but not worth the aggravation to me. So the hood is going to a shop. Trust me the nose is fab. looking .
To all, thank, I'll stick to the black, but if I run across a spare set of light trim I think I'll hsoot em' white and see how they look.
Power painter, Nicole?
I thought you were a Schwabisher, but now I know for sure...you Turk!
Puhlease!
I didn't paint the hood only the nose.
The acrylic enamal is a very flexible paint. I used it often -in the past on a small mountain of motorcycle fairings, side covers, and tailcones. I foam block sanded the entire nose piece with the afore-mentioned multi pack but did not break the primer base and am not worried at all about separation.
The hood will get ye olde automotive clearcoat finish. I do appreciate the concern of color "fading' over time with an eventual possibility of noticeably mismatching. Red's and metallics are of particular concern, with pearl's being a close third for matching.
Sand scratch swelling and orange peel would have shown up by now.
I do have a setof pro-bink's guns and access to compressor/separators/regulators and large quite air bay's with dual four foot adjustible speed fan evacuators -sorry, no downdrafts or waterfall system-. Bottom line is the cost of paint for such a small job.
The hood which probably has an equivalant surface area to the nose piece but is wide and flat which makes it considerably more difficult to paint due to nozzel spray pattern width and consequent overspray/rough finish issues. It could be done but not worth the aggravation to me. So the hood is going to a shop. Trust me the nose is fab. looking .
To all, thank, I'll stick to the black, but if I run across a spare set of light trim I think I'll hsoot em' white and see how they look.
Power painter, Nicole?
I thought you were a Schwabisher, but now I know for sure...you Turk!
