Garth S

Put a large wrench on the hex of the 1-4 cam gear, and rotate ~1 tooth (or whatever is required) clockwise as you pull the belt tight to your left: The correct tooth should engage. If the marks (presumably still @45 deg) line up to where they were at the beginning - install the tensioner roller and apply enough tension to keep the belt on. Remove the flywheel lock, and advance carefully to TDC to verify the marks.
Apply the tension, and recheck at least 3X after two full rotations per cycle.

athenian

Thanks for your response but I'm a bit confused with your answer....

First of all my tensioner roller is already installed and in place (together with the idler) and the tensioner is filled with oil already....Now why do I need to rotate the 1-4 cam sproket one tooth??? Is this the correct procedure to put the belt back on the cam or something that was ommitted from the write-up procedures???

I thought the cams SHOULD not be moved/rotated once they are locked in the 45 deg position.....In my case even moving the cam one tooth, like you're suggesting, will not make any difference...The belt does not have enough slack to stretched over the 1-4 cam sprocket...Maybe draining some of the oil will provide the slack needed...

ANY other suggestions??

Regards - VK

'91 S4 AT

Garth S

Yep!! Take the belt off the tensioner roller - that is the last step in fitting the belt: you've jumped too far ahead.
The whole idea of locking down the crank @45 deg is that on an interference engine, this is THE position in which the cams CAN be rotated somewhat without contact. As the valve spring residual tension will tend to move the cams after the old belt is removed, it is now safe to turn the cams sufficiently to assure the belt engages the cam gears correctly; therefore, follow the instruction in the previous post (if you choose ), getting the belt on the 1-4 cam correctly BEFORE the tensioner roller.
Once the belt is on the cams, tie-wraps or spring clips can secure this position, for two hands are needed for a first timer to thread the carrier arm/tensioner roller around the belt, over the pivot stud, and aligned to get the tensioner push rod correctly engaged.
Oil in the tensioner has no bearing on the process - just back out the adjuster bolt all the way: every millimeter of slack will be needed.

ErnestSw

Make sure you don't "lose" a belt tooth between the oil pump and the driver's side cam gear. ie, make sure you've got the belt really tight everywhere else but on the last gear/pulley. I put it on my passenger side cam gear last and had to pull hard to get it on the gear. If you can get it to catch you can hit the edge gently with your hand, or wiggle it, and it will go on the rest of the way.
What Garth meant was that you can rotate your passenger side cam gear SLIGHTLY clockwise to grab the belt tooth as long as it ends up back in the right place.

athenian

Thanks for pointing out my mistake in the procedure....I went back and re-read the John Pirtle write-up and it does say to do the belt on the tensioner roller LAST....

One more item to clarify:

The gear oil is recommended W90 which does not exist on its own and the Pirtle article recommendes 80W90 gear oil....others recommend using 70W90 gear oil or even good-reliable engine oil (like 10W40 or W30).....I just filled the tensioner with engine oil 10w40...No leaks so far....

Does the type of oil in the tensioner make much difference??

Thanks again

Vasilis K.
'91 S4 AT

Vilhuer

There should be some takl in archives about what oil to use. Seems Porsche couldn't deside themselves and said SAE30 motor oil at one time and gearbox oil at other if I remember correctly. Don't think it makes much difference as long as it's oil.