Mongo

ok, now that I have the ride height spanner from the Suzuki dealer to adjust the spring perches. I have some questions.

1- The purpose of this adjustment is for preparing the car for a 4-wheel alignment.

2- Can the car be adjusted on a lift that doesn't lift the tires off the ground so it can be aligned immediately after? Or do the wheels have to be lifted to adjust the spring perches on the front and rear?

3- After the adjusment, and if the wheels are lifted, how long until I can get an alignment? Will I have to drive the car to let the suspension settle or can it sit for a certain period of time?

Please let me know if anyone has recently done this. Thanks!

Andy

ErnestSw

All fourwheels can be adjusted with the car on ramps. If you lift the car it's recommended that you drive at least 50 miles, preferably on bumpy roads with lots of turns. Do yourself a favor and use lots of penetrating oil before you start the job. You can find a detailed explanation on the Nichol's site.

okbarnett

the dealer puts sand bags on the front radiator and truss for about 15 min. the springs settle down after that time and they align.

GlenL

Sure, it can be done with wheels on without lifting. It is easier to get at the adjusters with the wheels off and easier to turn the nuts when the shocks are unloaded. After jacking the front it needs to settle and that means driving. Bumps and truns make it go faster. The back has no settling problem.

Use the official measurement spots to get it set right. A piece of wood cut a few mm short of the target height really helps with that.

FeedNfrenZ

I did mine the hard way since I had no lift. I took the tires off made adjustments, Put the tires back on, drove it, rechecked, etc. If you had a lift that could lift the cars by the wheels. You could make your adjustments, lower the car, drive it, and recheck. I would imagine that their would still be a little settling due to the fact that the tire couldn't slide side to side as the adjustment was made.................. unless the lift that it was on had that capability?

Mongo

For penetrating oil, would PB blaster be ok on the threads? Mine have a lot of buildup on the threads.

Andy

JPTL

It's not out of the question to get lucky the first time doing a wheels off adjustment. I did....within 1 or 2 mm. variation. I started with negligible variation from side to side in ride height. If your ride height is currently even on both sides, mark the top of the adjuster/spanner with some black paint...or something, and count the revolutions. Keep them the same for both sides for starters. Determine if your car is sitting level from front to back as well. If your car sits lower in the front, Dave Roberts suggested to do a few less turns for the rear than the front. I followed his advice, and he was right on.
Plus, I'm not so sure that doing a loaded adjustment (on ramps) relieves you of having to drive the car for a while to settle in your new adjustments.
Another thing to keep in mind....make sure that you're turning in the right direction. It's not quite as obvious as you'd think....which direction raises...which direction lowers.
Also keep in mind that although there's a general rule of how many turns equals how many millimeters of adjustment, it changes as the spring rate increases/decreases (the more compressed the spring, the less turns it takes to obtain more lift, for example).
My car had a good alignment, but was waaay too low. After raising my car to spec. ride height, driving to settle, rechecking (& getting lucky) then taking it in for a no-lift alignment, my numbers weren't off too badly...toe in wasn't as bad as I would have thought. So in my case, driving it around with the new ride height - pre-alignment - with the specs off to the extent that they were, wouldn't have eaten up my tires at the rate that I would have expected (per the alignment guy w/20 years experience).
Generally, you do want to get it in for an alignment a.s.a.p. It's the old cost of alignment vs. cost of new Z rated tires formula.

FeedNfrenZ

"It is easier to get at the adjusters with the wheels off and easier to turn the nuts when the shocks are unloaded"
Two good points that Glen made! If your having trouble turning the nuts you may need to remove the tire.

jpitman2

As jptl says, watch for non linear changes in the front . I am closing in on final height at the front now, aiming at 2mm higher driver side unloaded. I also found that if you are lowering, its easier (without jacking) with wheels on full right lock - you can get enough swing on the C spanner to get to the next notch behind the left wheel, in front of the right. Conversly, if raising, use full left lock so you can swing the spanner. If you need a bit more leverage, a deep socket and short extension on the end of the spanner helps. Still needs a little driving to settle after adjusting, but not nearly as much as if jacked.
jp 83 Euro S AT 48k, M474

WallyP

"the dealer puts sand bags on the front radiator and truss for about 15 min. the springs settle down after that time and they align."


I have VERY serious doubts about that procedure working very well. The Factory Workshop Manual has a specific procedure for pulling the front end down to a specified level for a specified time - I don't think that sandbags will make it happen...

One quick check, if you want to prove it one way or the other...
Measure from the front fender to the floor.
Jack the car, and do your work.
Do whatever you want - sandbags, bouncing the car, etc,
Measure from the same point on the fender to the floor again. If the measurement is the same, your method works. If it is now higher, your method doesn't work, and if you align the car it will have the toe improperly set. The result will be worn inner edges on the front tires.

dr bob

This is a nit-picky point but...

The spring doesn't change length during this operation, so the statement above may be misleading. It's correct in what it says, but what it says doesn't normally happen. The adjustment of the spring perch causes more of the shock to stick out of the bottom of the spring/shock assembly. That's what's raising the car. So long as you are consistent side-to-side with your adjustments, that is.

Mongo

thanks for all your help you guys. I'm printing this whole thing out so I can do this the right way. I want this car aligned enough to keep the tires from wearing out in under 10,000 miles sine it sits in the garage most of the time but still. Must be in ship-shape!

Andy

SteveG

All: I've read everything here and Nichols re ride height. Just installed new Bilsteins and Eibachs. Something doesn't seem right. Car was low, so cranked adjusters up to get to desired setting; it is at the max on the front. I have about 1 inch or more of threads showing below the adjuster. When I turn it, the tension increases greatly, then a loud snap like it is at top of thread, tension is released, do it again, same thing. Drive on rough road; it has settled well. When I measure front fender lip = 27". BUT the measuring point rear of control arm as shown in manual, it measures 5.0 inches which is a good 1.25 inch low. I'm using 18 cm / 2.54 = 7.25 inches. I know it is a range and 5 inches is probably acceptable, but why the discrepancy?? I have similar problem on the rear.

jon928se

Steve G

Do you have the adjuster nuts on upside down ?

This is a wild *** guess - but the adjuster nuts on my Bilsteins are defineitely assymetric - best described in function as a like a normal nut with a piece of plain tube to extend one end of the nut.

Jon
Black SE
Silver Gt

Gretch

Wally, He HAD to be friggin kidding.........at least that is the way I read it. Only a total moron would use such an unscientific method to make such a technical adjustment.......

On the other hand, I HAVE seen dumber **** posted on some of the other boards....