No start - ignition switch?
Turn the key silence except the weakest sound of the seat belt warning. Almost like the sound of air escaping a balloon.
Dash lights on, no sound of relays and absent the sound of the recirc flap closing. Head lamps go up and light.
This happened yesterday, too. Took three tries to start the car. Replaced the starter relay before this latest failure.
I think it's the ignition switch.
-A shout out to my car. The failure happened while it was parked inside my garage. Who could ask for more? :-)
Dash lights on, no sound of relays and absent the sound of the recirc flap closing. Head lamps go up and light.
This happened yesterday, too. Took three tries to start the car. Replaced the starter relay before this latest failure.
I think it's the ignition switch.
-A shout out to my car. The failure happened while it was parked inside my garage. Who could ask for more? :-)
Kevin its possible the cam tooth has deformed and is no longer allowing the key to turn the the contacts in the IG switch to the crank position.
To figure this out you will need to remove the pod then the ignition cylinder.
reference this thread start at post 330 to see whats going on..
To figure this out you will need to remove the pod then the ignition cylinder.
reference this thread start at post 330 to see whats going on..
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Last edited by Mrmerlin; Jul 11, 2025 at 04:55 PM.
Have another IG switch in hand.
For the purposes of future reference. One notable thing. The blower motor does not work now. Not sure how that relates to a bad IG switch.
But, if returns after I replace the IG switch maybe it will inform future 928 owners.
Kevin
For the purposes of future reference. One notable thing. The blower motor does not work now. Not sure how that relates to a bad IG switch.
But, if returns after I replace the IG switch maybe it will inform future 928 owners.
Kevin
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its clear as day if you go to the link I sent and start looking at the pictures ,
one side of the cam face was smashed.
NOTE see post 337, has a picture of the cam and the rear side of the lock cylinder in this case the cylinder is deformed in my case the cam face was deformed
one side of the cam face was smashed.
NOTE see post 337, has a picture of the cam and the rear side of the lock cylinder in this case the cylinder is deformed in my case the cam face was deformed
Last edited by Mrmerlin; Jul 11, 2025 at 10:18 PM.
its clear as day if you go to the link I sent and start looking at the pictures ,
one side of the cam face was smashed.
NOTE see post 337, has a picture of the cam and the rear side of the lock cylinder in this case the cylinder is deformed in my case the cam face was deformed
one side of the cam face was smashed.
NOTE see post 337, has a picture of the cam and the rear side of the lock cylinder in this case the cylinder is deformed in my case the cam face was deformed
Interesting - I hope that replacing the switch solves the issue. Otherwise, I'll have to dissect the lock.
Were there any other symptoms associated with the deformed area? Like the key would not return and release the solenoid?
Kevin the key worked perfectly in the lock,
however the amount that the cylinder would turn would depend on the condition of the cam rod and the deformed lock cylinder.
Now that you know what your looking for it will make it easier to fix
however the amount that the cylinder would turn would depend on the condition of the cam rod and the deformed lock cylinder.
Now that you know what your looking for it will make it easier to fix
Swapped with another IG switch I had. Same problem, but different. Blower motor works with the IG switch.
I hooked my remote starter and the engine cranks.
I will take a look at the cam shortly.
I hooked my remote starter and the engine cranks.
I will take a look at the cam shortly.
Took the cam out of the equation. IG switch connected to harness and used a screwdriver to turn the switch - same results.
How do I diagnosis the problem? I swapped a new starter and X relays before I took apart the pod,
Jumper 30 and 87?
I guess I could look for battery voltage on the starter relay and continuity to the ground.
How do I diagnosis the problem? I swapped a new starter and X relays before I took apart the pod,
Jumper 30 and 87?
I guess I could look for battery voltage on the starter relay and continuity to the ground.
Took the cam out of the equation. IG switch connected to harness and used a screwdriver to turn the switch - same results.
How do I diagnosis the problem? I swapped a new starter and X relays before I took apart the pod,
Jumper 30 and 87?
I guess I could look for battery voltage on the starter relay and continuity to the ground.
How do I diagnosis the problem? I swapped a new starter and X relays before I took apart the pod,
Jumper 30 and 87?
I guess I could look for battery voltage on the starter relay and continuity to the ground.
Found the issue - bad IG switch.



