Is there any adhesive used when reattaching the drip rails?

Kevin

 

Nope.

 

Thanks

 

BUT if it wont stay on use that Urethane windshield adhesive,
I would wait a month for the paint to cure before adding any kind of chemicals to the painted surfaces.

NOTE these trims usually come off because the clamped areas have been spread,
and the trim itself was bent as it was removed thus it will have a slight curve to it.

NOTE clamp the trim on with blue tape put layer of aluminum foil over the painted trim area so the tape wont pull off the new paint.

NOTE you dont need much its usually along the lower side of the A pillar that comes free.
To get the glued trim off you have to use a heat gun and wood pry stick.

 

My 88 suffers from a loose drip rail.

My painter and I looked at the drip rail gaps. We tapped them to be uniform. So thanks for the heads up.

We'll know if that worked shortly.

 

I was waiting for you to attach these! Mine had heaps of contact adhesive when I removed them. I cleaned them as best I could and tried to bend the lower edge ( door side) uniform to the curve. I loosely trail fitted them and it looks good but they will need more than "hand pressure" to refit them. Don't want to damage them by smacking them with a mallet.
How are you planning to line them up so the little fitting that hold the backs in line up?

 

There was a yellow residue along the leading edge when I removed mine. That's why I posed the initial question.

The PS drip rail took some serious wiggling and that why we carefully reduced the gap.

As for the attachment. My thinking is to attach the rear support to the drip rail to get it the correct position.

I handed the drip rails off to my shop yesterday. I will swing by to help if they need it.

Edit: They say they are on with no issues. I'll swing by today and get pictures.

 

I would not use a modern windshield urethane in this application.

I've never reapplied any adhesive. The key is making sure the drip rail pieces are not distorted AT ALL during removal & reinstallation. They will just barely spread open a bit during proper removal. Just gently "recrimp" them with duck billed vise grips & paint paddles within the flat areas.

If necessary, you can also add electrical tape just here & there along the pinch welds. Fold the tape over the very edge such that half is below the pinch welds & half above. Do not do more than 1" lengths, 4 to 5 at the most & equidistant.

The same thing can be done for the windshield trim to replace the original "sandwich" sectionals.