rear body side molding -Door ding rubber
#1
rear body side molding -Door ding rubber
Hi . Just noticed the rear door ding guard on quarter panel is letting loose a little in the middle. It is about 0.020 away from the body.I don't want to pull on it for clearance to add tape. Nor do I wish to use cyanocrylate as it might run past that molding . What did you do? Thanks for any replies. Mike.
#2
0.020!? This calls for removing the trim and re-assembly with new clips and tape. But you'll probably crack the paint on it during removal so it'll need to be painted. To match you'll need to do the quarter panel but the blending is never good so you'll need to paint the whole car. Get it sanded down to metal. That'll run you about $10k but you do want it perfect.
#4
Either do what Glen suggests or park near a pine tree for an afternoon and upon returning to the car, lean against the offending trim strip for 10 seconds, then spend the rest of the day washing the extra pitch off the car.
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#8
Drive south - a long way: park for two hours with the offending strip enjoying the sun - then do 0.020" worth of a bench press, and hold for a count of 50.
You may have thermally remoulded the strip. If not, enjoy California.
You may have thermally remoulded the strip. If not, enjoy California.
#11
This is really not as hard as it sounds. Did this little job earlier this spring.
First buy the tape for the back of the molding, two body panel clips that accept the two prongs on the molding, and a 1 inch plastic putty knife.
Get the area around the molding and body very clean.......you don't want any dirt or grit to be around while you are removing the molding.
Cover the area above and below the molding with 1 layer of masking tape.....about 6" from the top of the molding and all the way down to the wheel opening on the bottom. This is for paint protection as you work the molding loose.
Next start using the putty knife to *gently* work the rest of the adhesive tape loose between the molding and the body. Once you almost have the
adhesive tape all loose you need to turn your attention to the body clips and molding prongs. Look in the fender well and find the rear body clip for the rear molding prong. *Gently* use a screwdriver or some other tool to
poke the molding prong back out the clip. They are in there pretty good and will often come out with a pop........be very careful here. The front clip/prong are behind the front wheel well liner. Pop this one out as well.
Once this is done you should be able to gently work the molding off without damage.
Get all old tape off molding, clean well. Clean molding area of body very well. Install new body clips, install new tape on molding, reinstall molding.
Done!
First buy the tape for the back of the molding, two body panel clips that accept the two prongs on the molding, and a 1 inch plastic putty knife.
Get the area around the molding and body very clean.......you don't want any dirt or grit to be around while you are removing the molding.
Cover the area above and below the molding with 1 layer of masking tape.....about 6" from the top of the molding and all the way down to the wheel opening on the bottom. This is for paint protection as you work the molding loose.
Next start using the putty knife to *gently* work the rest of the adhesive tape loose between the molding and the body. Once you almost have the
adhesive tape all loose you need to turn your attention to the body clips and molding prongs. Look in the fender well and find the rear body clip for the rear molding prong. *Gently* use a screwdriver or some other tool to
poke the molding prong back out the clip. They are in there pretty good and will often come out with a pop........be very careful here. The front clip/prong are behind the front wheel well liner. Pop this one out as well.
Once this is done you should be able to gently work the molding off without damage.
Get all old tape off molding, clean well. Clean molding area of body very well. Install new body clips, install new tape on molding, reinstall molding.
Done!