Front Shocks
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,765
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From: London, UK
Front Shocks
Here are the Koni Hydraulics that I'm hoping to fit shortly, I'm assuming the car has the original Boge units. I'm still using the car so haven't even taken a look yet, but I can't see how the height adjuster is going to work. Before buying the shocks I checked the 82 1992 part number with Koni who confirmed they are the correct shocks but perhaps I'm missing something.
Also thanks to Tony for the great pics and description of the removal and reinstallation process.
Also thanks to Tony for the great pics and description of the removal and reinstallation process.
Last edited by UKKid35; Jul 4, 2004 at 05:17 AM.
Rennlist Member
Joined: Dec 2002
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From: Australia
paul,
I would guess a threaded sleeve sits on the ring on the body, and engages one the bumps/pegs to stop it turning. Then a nut screws onto the sleeve, then the spring perch sits on the nut. Suggest you lube it all well at assembly time......not just BTDT, but currently adjusting front ride height. Seems there is something non linear going on, as I went high, then down a bit and overshot, now high again, and slowly coming down this time.
jp 83 S M474 Bilsteins...
I would guess a threaded sleeve sits on the ring on the body, and engages one the bumps/pegs to stop it turning. Then a nut screws onto the sleeve, then the spring perch sits on the nut. Suggest you lube it all well at assembly time......not just BTDT, but currently adjusting front ride height. Seems there is something non linear going on, as I went high, then down a bit and overshot, now high again, and slowly coming down this time.
jp 83 S M474 Bilsteins...
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,765
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From: London, UK
Thanks JP but there's nothing on the shock absorber body to stop a threaded sleeve from turning. If it's a push fit then I presume getting it off the 17 year old shock will virtually impossible.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 881
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From: Denmark
Hello Paul,
You did not tell the model of your car - The older (before 1984 ?)has no front hight adjustment
The hight adjustment consist of a treaded sleeve and a ring nut. The sleeve is just pressed on the shocks - The best to buy new sleeve and nuts, because the old (if they are there) are grown together after many years in a bad environmental
Good luck with your project
Regards from Erik in Denmark
You did not tell the model of your car - The older (before 1984 ?)has no front hight adjustment
The hight adjustment consist of a treaded sleeve and a ring nut. The sleeve is just pressed on the shocks - The best to buy new sleeve and nuts, because the old (if they are there) are grown together after many years in a bad environmental
Good luck with your project
Regards from Erik in Denmark
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,765
Likes: 125
From: London, UK
Sleeve removal and refitting
OEM shock used on 99% of 928 's The threaded sleeve for height adjustment slides over this shock
How dificult is it going to be to remove the old sleeve and fit on the new shock?
My new shocks have no nuts, what's the chance the ones on the old shocks not fitting?
I think I'm going to go soak the area in penetrating oil very soon even though I probably won't be doing this for job for a couple of weeks.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: London, UK
Thanks Erik, in an ideal world I'd be fitting a brand new set of Bilstein Eibach Coilovers, however I'm going to have to make use of used parts (preferably ones that come off the car) because of financial constraints. I've been lucky to get the shocks from another Rennlister who waited about 6 months for me to complete the deal - Thanks Randy!
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From: Nova Scotia
Paul,
I'm sure you have the info now: the adjuster sleeve/nut just drops in over the top of the shock - there is no engagement to hold the threaded sleeve in place ( with ~ 2 quadzillion Kg of spring pressure acting on a small contact surface, it won't move too much!).
The front Konis I have are # 8240-1085 - (internal rebound adj.) Yours may have an external adjuster?
Anyway, unless there is severe corrosion, the sleve and nut should just slide off. The problem area is often the plastic dust boot on the top! The steel bushing likes to attach to the shaft of the shock, and takes some careful persuasion to seperate.
A new nylock nut at the top is not a bad idea, for there is a lot of spring pressure to deal with. On that note, beg, borrow or steal a 3rd compressor when disassembling the coil-over: I did my first ones with the usual two - and when one slipped - it left me with a highly compressed 'killer' writhing over my garage floor like a strangling octopus!! Three will secure the spring.
I'm sure you have the info now: the adjuster sleeve/nut just drops in over the top of the shock - there is no engagement to hold the threaded sleeve in place ( with ~ 2 quadzillion Kg of spring pressure acting on a small contact surface, it won't move too much!).
The front Konis I have are # 8240-1085 - (internal rebound adj.) Yours may have an external adjuster?
Anyway, unless there is severe corrosion, the sleve and nut should just slide off. The problem area is often the plastic dust boot on the top! The steel bushing likes to attach to the shaft of the shock, and takes some careful persuasion to seperate.
A new nylock nut at the top is not a bad idea, for there is a lot of spring pressure to deal with. On that note, beg, borrow or steal a 3rd compressor when disassembling the coil-over: I did my first ones with the usual two - and when one slipped - it left me with a highly compressed 'killer' writhing over my garage floor like a strangling octopus!! Three will secure the spring.
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Nordschleife Master
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Minneapolis
Here's my experience with Koni shocks:
The adjusters for the rears fit snugly on the shocks and don't turn with the nut.
The adjusters for the front sit on top of the nubs and don't lock to the shock. As the adjusters I got (story omitted) were frozen, I couldn't adjust them at all. What I've been told is that when installed, the sleeve will stick to the nubs while the nut turns.
Application of anti-seize or such is advised both front and back.
And use new nuts. The Porsche-spec versions are the all-metal nuts that look slightly oval at the top. A few bucks a piece but worth it. I searched for these locally and ended up getting them from the 928 supplier most near to Disneyland.
The adjusters for the rears fit snugly on the shocks and don't turn with the nut.
The adjusters for the front sit on top of the nubs and don't lock to the shock. As the adjusters I got (story omitted) were frozen, I couldn't adjust them at all. What I've been told is that when installed, the sleeve will stick to the nubs while the nut turns.
Application of anti-seize or such is advised both front and back.
And use new nuts. The Porsche-spec versions are the all-metal nuts that look slightly oval at the top. A few bucks a piece but worth it. I searched for these locally and ended up getting them from the 928 supplier most near to Disneyland.
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Rennlist Member
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 5,283
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From: Australia
When I pulled my rear Bilsteins to refurb them, the alloy adjuster nuts were corroded in place - the Bilsteins have the thread cut into the shock body, no separate sleeve. Had to cut the nuts off from both sides, and get new ones., steel this time.
jp 83 Euro S AT 48k
jp 83 Euro S AT 48k
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,765
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From: London, UK
Disassembling Boge Shocks
Although I had inteneded to use three compressors, in the end I used two without any problems at all. However I can't see what to do next. There is no sleeve visible at all, and the perch that the spring sits on although free to move can't clear the lip at the top of the Boge. I don't want to remove either part destructively in case the Boge's have to be refitted for some reason.
Rennlist Member
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Nova Scotia
Like 'nickers', once you've gone this far, they (the spring plates) have to disappear before you can get any ... further: They went on over the top, so must come off - How much of a lip is in the way? (need a top view). It is possible you are dealing with a "top cover" [ part #9, 40-39 WSM] that is one remaining part of the washer/bump stop assembly that slides over the piston rod. If that is the case, it is seized in position, and needs to be tapped off: it is not part of the shock - then the plate will slide off.
The threaded insert is ~1/2 the height of the adjuster nut, so is nicely hidden inside. The bevel faces down on reinstall.
The Konis most likely have an adjustable foot valve for rebound: you will want to determine where they are set before installation - for there is only one way to readjust, and you're not quite half way through the procedure ( but the second time does get faster - don't ask!
).
The threaded insert is ~1/2 the height of the adjuster nut, so is nicely hidden inside. The bevel faces down on reinstall.
The Konis most likely have an adjustable foot valve for rebound: you will want to determine where they are set before installation - for there is only one way to readjust, and you're not quite half way through the procedure ( but the second time does get faster - don't ask!
).
Sharkaholic
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From: Rochester, WA
I don't understand how those koni's can be adjustable for ride height? All of the ones I have on my cars are threaded on the shock body for the ride height adjustment nut to travel up or down based on the setting you want to acheive.
Here is a pic of my rear with the bilsteins:
You can see the threaded portion on the lower part of the shock, the fronts are much the same.
Here is a pic of my rear with the bilsteins:
You can see the threaded portion on the lower part of the shock, the fronts are much the same.
Rennlist Member
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Nova Scotia
All Boge and Koni 928 shocks have an externally threaded bushing that slips over the top to rest on the ring shown in Paul's pic. The nut then threads on to hold the spting plate up - and to adjust as the Bilsteins.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: London, UK
Thanks Garth, your description was perfect. Here is the what the Boge and Koni look like side by side before reassembly, and also a pic of the adjuster nut with the sleve inside. It is completely seized so there's no chance of me adjusting ride height unless I replace them, which I can't at this time.
Rennlist Member
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Nova Scotia
Some super penetrant and moderate heat (aluminium) or extreme cold may release the threaded insert: if not, at some point they can be cut out by a hack saw blade( assemble the blade to the saw after inserting through the bushing). Three cuts just to the top of the Al threads should allow the insert to be driven into the center. Don't know what used inserts are worth in your area ($20 @ 928 int'l)- but it's double the work later.
BTW, if you are friendly with a machinest, it shouldn't be too large a trick to turn a pair fron a piece of pipe - stainless even!
Remember to determine and set the Koni foot valve for rebound prior to assembly: They are a great shock IMHO - so are Bilsteins: while they are different, I wouldn't go away thinking I had second best. You will like them - for a long time to come!
BTW, if you are friendly with a machinest, it shouldn't be too large a trick to turn a pair fron a piece of pipe - stainless even!
Remember to determine and set the Koni foot valve for rebound prior to assembly: They are a great shock IMHO - so are Bilsteins: while they are different, I wouldn't go away thinking I had second best. You will like them - for a long time to come!