I've got 3 combination relays. I'm getting different results from depending on which one is installed.

1.
When lights are on, neither high or low beams work, but when on high beams, the fog lamps turn on without depressing the button on the pod.

2 & 3
These two pretty much do the same thing. Driver's side headlight is out on low, but both work on high. I know the bulb is good since I directly connected a bulb to a battery and both high and low beam work. The fuse is good for the low beam. When pressing the fog lamps button on the pod, the lamps don't come on and it bumps the trip meter.

None of them are lighting the front running lights. The blinkers work, but I do have a short on the passenger side running lights I have to track down. Do I have 3 bad combination relays?

 

I suspect you have the switches or plugs mistakenly swapped between the fog light and trip odometer reset pod switches. Try turning on your parking lights, key on, depress the trip reset switch. See if your fog lights illuminate, if even only momentarily.

Verify your fuse connections using a 12v test light at BOTH points of contact for a given fuse holder. Just because a fuse is not visually blown or oxidized does not mean that the circuit is complete and can sustain a load.

Is this a RoW car, USA/Japan, etc.? What model year?

 

Hello Kiln. I did tear apart the cluster, so it's possible, though I thought those were keyed and no possible to swap between the two. I'll check if the lights kick on with the trip button and pull them out and double check.

I removed and cleaned all the fuse connectors and replaced the fuses. I didn't have my test light with me this weekend, but will check and confirm on that.

Sorry, I don't know what RoW is, but as far as I know it's an 83 USA car.

 

RoW = Rest of World

As far as I can tell, it's really valued for certain years where the Euro versions of cars just had more power than what was sent to the States. There are other differences, as well, of course, that can show up in different parts of the car, which is why you often see the question.

Cheers

 

If you had the pod switch button faces removed (as you should have), it's possible you could have mounted just the button face onto the wrong switch. I think I've made the exact same mistake before.

 

Looking at the user's manual, the trip reset should be on bottom. I'm pretty sure that's how I have it, but I'll double check next weekend when I'm back down there. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

Disconnect the battery, and remove the pod switches with the wires connected,
get the wire diagram and verify what’s connected to what switch.
NOTE the reset button is only a momentary push VS the fog lamp will stay down when pushed.

NOTE don’t slide the switches into the pod unless the battery is disconnected,
as the switches can short out on the pod,
this will melt the wire back to the CE panel or more.

for the USA cars , Under the pod find the rear fog lamp connector an tape it,
it is usually already taped with black cloth tape.

NOTE the headlight not working is usually a fuse, a bad bulb or,
a broken wire in the harness where the wires flex and are clamped under the respective headlight in the fender well.

Use the WD to verify the fog parking and side light connections in each fender,
look carefully as the gang connectors have numbers on them.

NOTE non working high beams is usually a switch problem,
and can sometimes be fixed with Deoxit 100 sprayed into the switch then cycling the stalk .
put a towel under the switch so the fluid wont drip onto the floor mats

 

Also the headlight relays are different for different years based on functionality.
That said, for your '83 it was originally 928 618 107 -02 , then the -02 was superseded to -05 and later on the -05 to -07 so the first one might not work at all.
So my suggestion is to try with the those two first

 

00, 02, 05 & 07 all work for MY80-86.

 

Thanks all. I'll start out with the simplest and work my way deeper. I appreciate everybody's help.

 

You sure about the 00?
Those were originally in the UK RHD cars that had some different headlamp set-ups for dim-dip regulations etc. for some years.
If my info is wrong, then please ignore.

My understanding is that there was something unique about this relay (the 00).
Refer to Post #6
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-127-00-a.html

 

928 615 127 00 and 928 618 107 00 are entirely different relays. The former fits early cars & the latter fits 80-86.

Additionally, the OP has the original '00' and '02' relays photo'd above. The covers show the same flow paths. Later supercessions are '05' and '07'.

 

So, just an update, I did indeed have the fog light and trip meter switches hooked up backwards. Quite the mix-up on my part. I thought they were keyed, but I guess not.

Traced the headlight wire all the way back to the connector plug on the CE panel below the relays. Found the wire for the left low beam wasn't connected. Pushed the quick disconnect inside the housing to click it onto the male connector and its fixed. This also fixed all the other running lights since I went and pressed on all of them to ensure they were connected.

Just have to run down the short on the passenger side running lights now. Pulled all the bulbs and checked all the sockets and they look good. Still pops the fuse with all bulbs removed, so it's somewhere in the harness. Not going to be fun running this one down.

 

NOTE,look for the same thing,
except with the metal wire harness clamp eating through the shield and shorting a wire,
under the respective headlight.
OR find one of the gang connectors mis wired,
just under the front bumper near the metal clamped area

NOTE quick test touch your continuity meter to positive wire in a side marker and the metal clamp under the HL then remove the harness from the clamp and test again