Cannot start '84 without throttle when warm
#16
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I will have the old injectors tested. I really want to avoid chinnesium if possible. Adapting some other Bosch injectors is probably way to go if the originals are too far gone. I found mysterious 24lbs Denso injectors but they look exactly like the Chinese Bosch clones only with Denso marking so probably not best option. Magneti Marelli or Delphi could be also option.
I will definitely report back on progress. Plan is to pull the fuel rails from the car tomorrow.
I will definitely report back on progress. Plan is to pull the fuel rails from the car tomorrow.
#17
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If anyone ever needs it:
999 701 699 40 o-ring is 8mm cross section, 110 mm outer diameter, 94mm inner diameter.
999 701 183 50 o-ring is 3mm cross section, 100 mm outer diameter, 94mm inner diameter.
Measurement is not perfect, measuring larger o-ring with calipers is not perfect but the dimensions make sense.
999 701 699 40 o-ring is 8mm cross section, 110 mm outer diameter, 94mm inner diameter.
999 701 183 50 o-ring is 3mm cross section, 100 mm outer diameter, 94mm inner diameter.
Measurement is not perfect, measuring larger o-ring with calipers is not perfect but the dimensions make sense.
#18
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Latest update. I checked everything including the mixture with wide-band and everything points to leaking injectors or terrible spray pattern. They are almost certainly original to the car or replaced very long time ago. Pulled the injectors and sent them to elferwelt.de . Guys at German pff.de forum had good experience with them. They also provide new hoses and hose sleeves for the injectors.
Is there any trick to unplugging EV1 injector connectors? I used super small flat screwdriver to pry up the locking wire on each side of the connector. Took me almost half hour to do all 8 of them. On rear most cylinders I have no clue how to disconnect them with injector rails mounted on the engine. I had to pull the rails with electric harness still connected on cylinders 3,4 and 8 and turn them sideways to get to the connectors.
Is there any trick to unplugging EV1 injector connectors? I used super small flat screwdriver to pry up the locking wire on each side of the connector. Took me almost half hour to do all 8 of them. On rear most cylinders I have no clue how to disconnect them with injector rails mounted on the engine. I had to pull the rails with electric harness still connected on cylinders 3,4 and 8 and turn them sideways to get to the connectors.
#19
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I don't know of a better way to work those connectors, apart from having a toothpick available to put into one side of the locking wire, once you have it out of the slot. I've spent a lot of time carefully getting those things out, only to have the first side pop back in, once the 2nd side is close to out. Bad access only multiplies the pain.
Modern versions are much more user friendly but I don't know if you want to start replacing the housings.
Cheers
Modern versions are much more user friendly but I don't know if you want to start replacing the housings.
Cheers
#20
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I had my injectors cleaned/rebuilt. Work was done by elferwelt.de. Dennis knows his stuff, had all components for our injectors in stock and provided before-after protocol. He also sends rebuilt injectors in sealed bags so the insides do not flash rust. It is apparently problem on these old EV1 injectors from Bosch.
Per provided report few injectors had small leaks/drip and all 8 had really bad or terrible spray pattern. Engine no longer bogs down on quick throttle blips and revs up much quicker. It seems it was not the only issue with injection and auxiliary air valve is likely stuck open because I cannot adjust idle speed even after 5 minutes of running. EZK manual says it should close in 5 minutes starting from 20°C. I started at 30°C and still had no reaction to idle speed screw. I also need to check mixture adjustment because my idle looks like ~600RPM on gauge and manual says 700 is required minimum for EZK timing control to work properly. My suspicion is that PO needed to pass smog and someone misadjusted everything.
Per provided report few injectors had small leaks/drip and all 8 had really bad or terrible spray pattern. Engine no longer bogs down on quick throttle blips and revs up much quicker. It seems it was not the only issue with injection and auxiliary air valve is likely stuck open because I cannot adjust idle speed even after 5 minutes of running. EZK manual says it should close in 5 minutes starting from 20°C. I started at 30°C and still had no reaction to idle speed screw. I also need to check mixture adjustment because my idle looks like ~600RPM on gauge and manual says 700 is required minimum for EZK timing control to work properly. My suspicion is that PO needed to pass smog and someone misadjusted everything.