'78 US camshaft seal removal
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
'78 US camshaft seal removal
I have leaking camshaft seals (behind the cam sprockets). I have sprockets off. What is the best way to remove leaking seals and install new? Any guidance is greatly appreciated.
#2
Team Owner
NOTE dont pry on the sides of the cam pulley to remove it,
use a puller and if necessary heat the gear hub with a torch.
NOTE aggressive prying on the cam pulley can cause the snout of the cam to fracture,
this damage may not be evident till after the the engine is put back to running condition.
NOTE without causing damage,
get a small new drill bit,
and drill a small hole into the seal face , closer to the outer edge .
just poke a hole it
put a sheet metal screw in a turn or two BUT dont bottom it out.
and then use a claw hammer to pull the screw,
NOTE dont use the cam as a prying surface as without the pulley it will slide in
the seal should come out with it.
NOTE before the inner seal collar can be removed you must remove the woodruff key
NOTE after you have removed the radial seal ,
pull the inner collar out off the cam shaft and look inside it ,
You will find an O ring this must also be replaced. use DC111 on your new O ring,
NOTE resurface all of the compressed parts,
the collar both sides ,
and the pulley faces,
and the bolt washer with 400 grit,
this will remove work hardened faces and let the parts have a fresh mating surface,
use a drop of blue on the new cam shaft bolt they are 12.9 torque to 48 ft lbs
NOTE dont turn the cams with the 17 mm bolt,
only use the 30 mm washer under the bolt
use a puller and if necessary heat the gear hub with a torch.
NOTE aggressive prying on the cam pulley can cause the snout of the cam to fracture,
this damage may not be evident till after the the engine is put back to running condition.
NOTE without causing damage,
get a small new drill bit,
and drill a small hole into the seal face , closer to the outer edge .
just poke a hole it
put a sheet metal screw in a turn or two BUT dont bottom it out.
and then use a claw hammer to pull the screw,
NOTE dont use the cam as a prying surface as without the pulley it will slide in
the seal should come out with it.
NOTE before the inner seal collar can be removed you must remove the woodruff key
NOTE after you have removed the radial seal ,
pull the inner collar out off the cam shaft and look inside it ,
You will find an O ring this must also be replaced. use DC111 on your new O ring,
NOTE resurface all of the compressed parts,
the collar both sides ,
and the pulley faces,
and the bolt washer with 400 grit,
this will remove work hardened faces and let the parts have a fresh mating surface,
use a drop of blue on the new cam shaft bolt they are 12.9 torque to 48 ft lbs
NOTE dont turn the cams with the 17 mm bolt,
only use the 30 mm washer under the bolt
Last edited by Mrmerlin; 05-12-2024 at 09:44 AM.
#3
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
There is also a key in the keyway on the shaft. Make sure you remove that before trying to get the seal past it.
#4
Team Owner
Thanks for the reminder Pete .I updated the post.
What Pete means is the seals inner collar will hit the woodruff key,
this is the part that slides onto the cam snout.
this is the part with the O ring inside it,
and where the cam pulley compresses against.
NOTE their are 2 woodruff keys on the driver side 5-8 cam snout.
one drives the distributor drive gear.
These parts clamped faces should also be dressed prior to reassembly.
Pay attention to how the parts come apart.
Best to reference the WSM for this type of operation
What Pete means is the seals inner collar will hit the woodruff key,
this is the part that slides onto the cam snout.
this is the part with the O ring inside it,
and where the cam pulley compresses against.
NOTE their are 2 woodruff keys on the driver side 5-8 cam snout.
one drives the distributor drive gear.
These parts clamped faces should also be dressed prior to reassembly.
Pay attention to how the parts come apart.
Best to reference the WSM for this type of operation
Last edited by Mrmerlin; 05-12-2024 at 09:45 AM.
#5
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
THANKS Mrmerlin and Pete, early on I was just thinking of replacing the radial seals. I have two o rings coming in the mail. Inner collar on passenger side does not have a slot inside for an o ring. And I do not see an o ring inside on the cam snout. WSM shows one o ring each side. Should passenger side o ring just sit in the beveled recess in the collar facing the rear of the car? My WSM shows a diagram of the driver's side of the drive train and denotes the different collar for the passenger side. Then my WSM goes on to a diagram for each cylinder bank but denotes " beginning with 1979 models"?? Passenger side diagram shows a collar with what looks like an o ring slot inside but is it maybe in the bevel I mentioned earlier? I have also been consulting PET. Sorry about persnickety details but I am trying to get her back together in time for trip to Parade in June. Best, Greg Heinrichs
#6
Team Owner
you might want to buy a new collar that has the groove for the O ring for the side without the O ring.
IIRC the early car might have had a thin piece of plastic for the seal .
NOTE this O ring stops oil from migrating through the collar and leaking out the cam into the gear.
NOTE if the collar with the O ring has a groove from where the Radial seal was then replace both sides.
Call Roger ask him what his PET is telling him for any updated seal collars for the 78 IDK that answer,
but I have purchased new seal collars. for later 16 v cars
NOTE while your at it get 2 big washers and 2 bolts to secure the cam pulleys
.bolts are different lengths ,
make sure the new bolts are 12.9
IIRC the early car might have had a thin piece of plastic for the seal .
NOTE this O ring stops oil from migrating through the collar and leaking out the cam into the gear.
NOTE if the collar with the O ring has a groove from where the Radial seal was then replace both sides.
Call Roger ask him what his PET is telling him for any updated seal collars for the 78 IDK that answer,
but I have purchased new seal collars. for later 16 v cars
NOTE while your at it get 2 big washers and 2 bolts to secure the cam pulleys
.bolts are different lengths ,
make sure the new bolts are 12.9
Last edited by Mrmerlin; 05-14-2024 at 09:05 PM.
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#8
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Finally got everything together and, lo and behold, car won't tart cranks but no spark at plugs or coil and fuel pumps do not come on. I can't think of anything electrical my mechanical work might have disturbed. Any suggestions greatly appreciated.
#9
Team Owner
green wire disconnected ?
Broken crumbled connector above the hot post area
Broken crumbled connector above the hot post area
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Mrmerlin (05-18-2024)