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Pilot Bearing Removal

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Old 06-19-2004, 04:44 PM
  #61  
ErnestSw
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Hi Jon,
I've got the clutch up on a jack and I've got the sliding sleeve on the back of the shaft. I'm thinking that if I put the top ball joint on next it will make centering the input shaft in the pilot bearing and getting the pins in easier.
Old 06-19-2004, 07:32 PM
  #62  
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The clutch is in!
Old 06-20-2004, 05:20 PM
  #63  
jon928se
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Late in the day i know

Since I wrote my last post you got the clutch in and I bought a 91 GT. What I omitted to mention (my bad) was that the easy way to get the ball joint back on is - once you have all the rest of the clutch bolted up and ready to go. Put foot on clutch pedal - this will pop the ball joint back on. Oh and Important check the Brake/Clutch fluid reservoir afterward as the new clutch means that more fluid will go into the clutch circuit.

Regards
Jon
Black SE
Silver GT
Old 06-20-2004, 05:52 PM
  #64  
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Hey Jon,
Thanks for the tip and congratulations on your new 91GT. It's the rarest year of all and, of course, the best of them (unless the pilot bearing explodes).
Old 06-27-2004, 07:52 AM
  #65  
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Old thread revisited as this seems to pop up every now and then and I'm sure many manual cars could use new bearing. Was in garage, pilot bearing puller and camera on hand. This cheapo Chinese version worked really well on pulling outer race out from crank after bearing failure. Three small claws do not need much to hold on.







New bearing can be pressed in with normal small two or three legged puller using six holes in flywheel. Having claws pointing out towards outside gives better leverage. For example suitable sized socket upside down between bearing and puller spreads force to outside race not loading inner one and *****.

Regards,

Erkka

1992 928 GTS 5-speed
Oak Green Metallic 22L
Classic Gray MX
Old 06-27-2004, 12:22 PM
  #66  
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NOW he tells me!!
Old 06-27-2004, 01:30 PM
  #67  
John Struthers
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Yeah, sure the clutch is together and hung, great!
But since you had all that lolly-gaggin' time on your hands ...did you finish cleaning under there.
Ern, before you go rolling out into that liquid Texas sunshine over there I'm going to recommend that you get a good set of earplugs and, maybe a set of shooters earmuffs so you don't get and stay paranoid over noises that have been there all along and you just noticed.
Keep in mind the re-builders rule of thumb:
If it doesn't fall off or frag within the first 100-250 miles it'll be O.K. .
Kudo's for taking on the job!
But now you have to offer your clutch hangin' services for hire in order to recoup the cost of all those damn tools!

Last edited by John Struthers; 06-27-2004 at 02:06 PM.
Old 03-18-2006, 06:11 PM
  #68  
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While we were dismantling S4 clutch I quickly took pic of puller in action. In this case bearing was fine but it's still good practise to change it as it has been there for who knows how many years. Grease will eventually dry out.

Old 06-01-2006, 10:18 PM
  #69  
hacker-pschorr
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Should one grease the outside of the new bearing or put it in "dry"? Feels like there is a light coat of grease in there already.
Old 06-01-2006, 10:37 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by Hacker-Pschorr
Should one grease the outside of the new bearing or put it in "dry"? Feels like there is a light coat of grease in there already.
Dry. Clean the bore with something like brake cleaner.

You probably already know, but put the new bearing, packaging and all in the freezer for a while (I left mine in for a couple of days because I didn't have time to get to it). Use appropriately sized sprocket or old bearing, three taps and it was seated for me...
Old 06-01-2006, 10:38 PM
  #71  
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My new bearing has been in the freezer since last monday (9 days ago). Wish me luck - back under the car.


EDIT - three taps my ***, stuck halfway and my fingers hurt like an SOB.

Last edited by hacker-pschorr; 06-01-2006 at 11:08 PM.
Old 06-02-2006, 03:45 AM
  #72  
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Use puller to push it in. No need to hit it at all.

Edit: Took pic while doing '88 S4.


Last edited by Vilhuer; 05-12-2007 at 06:07 PM.
Old 07-14-2013, 09:54 AM
  #73  
JakeS2
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Pump old thread with updated info.
For 928 manual the pilot bearing standard code is NTN 6202Z and the part # is 928 102 111 02.
hope this is useful to someone and web crawler engines find it now.
Old 07-14-2013, 10:18 AM
  #74  
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Cool...thanks

Funny, as I read this, I notice how many people no longer post here, and how many newbies there are like me....
Old 07-14-2013, 12:41 PM
  #75  
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Any 6202 bearing will work but its good to get one which has both sides sealed. Even better if it has high temp grease.



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