ordered and it’s otw. I’ll keep everyone posted with the install and hiccups because we all know this won’t be completely smooth process. Haha

 

I messaged them Friday evening, but it was just minutes before closing, so I haven't gotten a response yet.. My "best guess visual eye" tells me that moving the master cylinder straight up will put the billet cap almost up against the bottom of the body/fender.. Stock master cylinders have the offset neck on the reservoir. I'm hoping this can be remedied in a couple of different ways. Ken

 

I haven’t torn out the booster yet but I’ll probably do it today. I’ve done it before so shouldn’t be take too long. You’re right tho, it is tucked into the fender quite a bit. I guess we will see how everything lines up. Hopefully there’s enough room. Fingers crossed.

 

Do you guys think I should run a tee fitting from just below the master using the existing rear lines. Or just use one line and tee it near the rear of the car? Either way I think it should work, but much easier to just bend existing lines up front and tee it to an an3 adapter and run a short an3 braided line to the rear brake outlet on the master. Then run 2 10mm to 3an adapters and run 2 more short an3 braided lines to the L-banjo for the front circuit? Another user recommended I don’t ditch the diagonal braking system but I don’t see how I can keep it going this route. Thoughts?

 

I would T at the lines by the MC.

NOTE make sure to get the same kind of brake line tubing ,
I thinks its called Conifer thats a mix of Nickle Copper.

 

would there be a problem running braided soft lines? I think they are teflon lined.

 

I dont see why not if they are made to handle brake fluid these might be easier to install

 

i recently changed the oem MC in my C2 with a Wilwood because of poor brakes due 1" bore......the 7/8" Wilwood is already much better , i couldn't find a smaller one that fits the mounting flange....3/4" would be perfect.
I used braided soft lines to connect ... they use them a lot in rally cars .

That's why i wrote that 1" bore is big .....sure without booster.

 

I would love to have that setup for my datsun roadster. The brake pedal feel in those cars is hampered by a 4:1 ish ratio. Even the best mods (wedge behind the master, new clevis hole in the pedal) doesn't get close enough to 6:1 to make it work well. An adjustable linkage setup and keeping the brake pedal seems like a perfect solution.

 

you were right.. very close to top inside of fender. Unsure if I can deal with this. Will be a pain to fill it trying to use a hose to pump in brake fluid. It’s so close to the top I wonder if there will even be room for the cap to come off.

 

In talking with a local big time Porsche racer, and SUPER NICE GUY, Quirt of Quirt Racing suggested just removing the supplied reservoir, and replacing it with nipples to remote mount the reservoirs... This will be easier on my race car, but should be doable on a street car also. Ken

 

indeed, common mod on Cobra's too. There are nice alu reservoirs with wall brackets. Just mount them as high as possible.

 

Any updates on remote reservoirs or some other fix? Racers need answers.... Ken

 

Sorry for the lack of updates. Was working on other things but I think I got it mostly done. The chase bays kit does not fit and needs a lot of modification to make work. The pedal adapter they send you doesn’t fit the 928 as it needs to be installed on the left side of the pedal but the one they send in the kit attaches to the right side. I reached out and they sent the version made for the e46 m3. It fits but not perfectly. Also the master cylinder push rod is too short and does not give perfectly straight alignment. I created my own pushrod by modifying the original aluminum square pushrod adapter and lines up well. I added a oilless sleeve bearing 12mm od/10mm id. And the rod provided is slightly too short so I just made a rod from an m10 threaded rod and an acorn nut which looks to have the exact round profile as the provided rod. Here are some pics. Was able to just use a pump with tube to get brake fluid into the reservoir not too bad. Just need to button it up and bleed brakes and I’ll give another update.

 

This is how it looks installed and also created that little bracket for the brake light switch. Will finish it up hopefully this weekend.