Lagavulin

That's a bad-*** bike for sure, 'hahaha'. Good job!

Jeff McVicar

Thanks Lagavulin, Its my favorite toy for the monent

PorKen

GoRideSno said: "Or maybe even plumbed into the smog pump like Porken has done. Why? to help create a vacuum in the crankcase.

For those who came late, I tried using the air pump to make a vacuum in the crankcase, using a venturi jet after the pump. The crank vapors never went through the pump. Oil will destroy the carbon sealing surfaces in the air pump.

I ended up reverting to an exhaust vent, for simplicity; works fine.

A real racing vacuum pump in place of the air pump would be supa bad. They need to have some oil mist drawn in, to lubricate and seal. Unfortunately, I haven't seen any less than $400, and I don't know how long they last.
...

This has got me thinking about 16V cam tower vents. One or two per side, using a fitting in place of the 18x1.5 aluminum threaded caps.

Put in hose fittings and 'T' the hoses into the upper hose from the crankcase to the oil separator.

I went and checked, when the caps are removed, you can see the camshaft and it's open inside. I had thought it might just be a shaft to the cam tower bolts. I was hoping too that I could see a cam lobe (for setting cam advance), but no dice so far.

Old & New

Andy,

Assuming it is the dynamic / in-use pressure that is of most concern, I'm suggesting that you throw a gauge on there to determine if larger vent sizing is necessary / warranted. I'd use an electronic sensor and gauge and study it *carefully* while operating the car.

bcdavis

928 Motorsports already sells a kit with those fittings...

http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/...ilcontrol1.jpg

Tony

At 11.31" X 4.75" where is it going to fit??

I assume it has to go vertically?

PorKen

bcdavis,

Thanks for the link. Interesting way to do it.

Almost what I want, but I would 'T' into the hose to the separator housing, not the cap hose, so the cam tower vapors have to go through the separator screen. I would like also to connect both cam towers together, to equalize the pressure. So maybe a crossover hose on the back and vent hoses on the front.

I have the cap hose going to an exhaust suction tube, after the muffler (in place of the cat).

GoRideSno

O&N,
The problem I see is that it will be different for different cars of varying HP and engine condition. I think it best to build for a worst case scenario. A 1" opening is not really any harder or easier than any size opening since I had to re-do the whole thing anyway. An actual vacuum in the crankcase is the ideal and I know we aren't there yet, though I believe Porken pulled some vacuum int he crankcase using the smog pump spinning it at stock speed.

BC,
edit. I see you were addressing PorKen.

Tony,
It would hang down by the DS cam cover, remember, the SC is 5" tall so it is just over 2x that tall.




Andy K

Old & New

Andy,

From an academic / marketing standpoint, I agree completely.

GoRideSno

Thx 0&N. I justed added some more when I edited regading BC's fitting comments.

Andy

Tony

Andy, Ive been calling!
Im in the LAX crew lounge.

GoRideSno

Hey Tony,

LMAO


Just left you a MSG, tag you're it.

Andy

Jeff McVicar

could you put the collector between the engine and the smog pump? A slight negative poundage would be great for all the gaskets for sure. Also editing now. I believe that the negative draw of cooled air (maybe tube it to the front) will eliminate the overage of 150 degrees that your part will endure. I like the smogpump Idea/ genius

PorKen

If you connect directly to the air pump, and can filter the oil and water out, the pump pulls a nice amount of vacuum at high rpm.
...

Andy,

Perhaps you can introduce a controlled air bleed before the separator to cool the vapors? This will also condense the water vapor, too.

Old & New

<rumblings of blow-by gas condensor designs...>