Left side pod errors
Hi folks-working on getting this 1985 auto car roadworthy, and having some dash/pod issues. Here's what I currently have inoperative:
-fuel gauge
-water temp gauge
-"coolant" light on(it's full)
-lights not working
From fuel gauge searching the forum, I know how to test the fuel gauge at the electrical fitting at the sender, which I will do next time I'm at the car(new sender installed with fuel overhaul). I have gotten underneath the pod to inspect, and it appears pretty clean, and i reseated the black connector on the left side. as this is all in one region of the car, I figured I'd at least entertain the possibility of the issues being related. Thanks for any tips.
-fuel gauge
-water temp gauge
-"coolant" light on(it's full)
-lights not working
From fuel gauge searching the forum, I know how to test the fuel gauge at the electrical fitting at the sender, which I will do next time I'm at the car(new sender installed with fuel overhaul). I have gotten underneath the pod to inspect, and it appears pretty clean, and i reseated the black connector on the left side. as this is all in one region of the car, I figured I'd at least entertain the possibility of the issues being related. Thanks for any tips.
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Artist Formerly Known As 84totheFloor
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Artist Formerly Known As 84totheFloor
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Posts: 1,031
Likes: 8
From: Franklin, TN
What do you mean by "lights not working"? You indicate the coolant light is on continuously, so that light must be working.
Under the "dead pedal" in the driver's footwell is the harness junction for the instrument pod. The pedal itself is an easy removal, and you may wish to check under there for the integrity of the connection.
As for the gauges, make sure all of your grounds are cleaned. I have actually removed the pod and taken an eraser to all of the circular copper contact points on the printed circuit board, which improved the gauge accuracy.
The fuel sender is not a difficult removal, but you may find yourself needing another o-ring seal when you remove it. If the car starts smelling like gas inside, that seal needs to be replaced.
Under the "dead pedal" in the driver's footwell is the harness junction for the instrument pod. The pedal itself is an easy removal, and you may wish to check under there for the integrity of the connection.
As for the gauges, make sure all of your grounds are cleaned. I have actually removed the pod and taken an eraser to all of the circular copper contact points on the printed circuit board, which improved the gauge accuracy.
The fuel sender is not a difficult removal, but you may find yourself needing another o-ring seal when you remove it. If the car starts smelling like gas inside, that seal needs to be replaced.
Gotcha-thanks! Sorry, I should have been more specific. my headlamps do not raise. I wasnt referrring to the lights IN the pod. As all these issues in some way pertain to the left side of the pod, I wondered if they arent a coincidental series of component failures, but related to the pod itself.
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Rennlist Member
Artist Formerly Known As 84totheFloor
Rennlist Member
Artist Formerly Known As 84totheFloor
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,031
Likes: 8
From: Franklin, TN
Here's your fuse and relay diagram - https://928srus.com/pages/charts. Headlight relay is a combo and is a first suspect.
thanks for that. on the 928srus site, the P/N for the headlamp double relay is different for an 87 and an 85. any chance these are similar pinouts? i ask cause i have a working '87 car here.... would be easy enough to swap that one relay to see if its the culprit.

