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did you fit a flexible hose to feed the slave cylinder?
If you did then its very easy to bleed the clutch.
first open the bleeder and let out any air. Then remove the slave from the bell housing ,
position the line so it will be at the upper most portion ,
while the pushrod is pointing to the ground.
Press the pushrod into the slave slowly and hold it for about 30 seconds.
I used a rag on the tip of the pushrod.
Then release the pushrod.
this will force any air up to the tank.
Then repeat this 2 more times then install the slave.
You should now have a great working clutch.
NOTE if you didnt replace the flex and hardline to the slave,
then you might still have air in that portion of the line.
I knew you were going to ask me about the flex line Well I did not replace it. I am bleeding money on this car and I just could not bring myself to replace another part that was not broken I did pull the clutch master spool out with the power bleeder on. From what I read on other posts that is supposed to do the trick. Is my '82 harder to bleed?
So, I have tried 6 ways to Sunday to bleed this clutch with no luck. Pulled the master cylinder out with a power bleeder on, Opened the slave bleed screw with power bleeder on and pump the clutch (shop manual way), and I even pumped up the power bleeder to 15 psi and put it on the slave bleeder screw and pumped fluid up that way. The pedal has good resistance but I still grind going into reverse and 1st after waiting 3-4 seconds with the clutch in. So, I pulled the clutch inspection plug and took a look at the slave cylinder rod travel. I measured roughly 16-17mm of travel which if I am understanding the manual should be the full travel of the slave cylinder. Does anyone know for sure what the travel distance of the slave cylinder rod should be?
Another quick note, I put the car in gear and put in the clutch and started the engine. As long as I kept the clutch in I could shift into all the gears. If I released the clutch with the shifter in neutral and then tried to depress it again and shift into first or reverse it would grind. I put it in first with my foot on the brake and slowly let the clutch out partially and then pressed in the pedal hoping I might clean off any rust on the clutch. I did that about 5 or 6 times, but still if I let out the clutch and depress it again and try to shift into reverse or 1st I get grinding.
Based on your report you should replace the hard/flex line,
as it will give you the highest probability for max opening of the clutch.
Follow the bleeding instructions above,
its super simple with minimum fluid loss to bleeding !
NOTE also make sure the feeding line is giving a constant down to the clutch master feed port ,
as this can also trap an air pocket.
Just want to make sure you saw my post about having 17mm of slave rod stroke? The manual says 17.4mm is the clutch stroke. Do you still think I have not bled it well enough? I took some boroscope pics in the peep hole. There are 4 photos. 2 different angles with the pedal depressed and the pedal released. Does this tell you anything? Should the plates where the arrow is pointing be separated? Angle 1 Pedal Released Angle 1 Pedal Pressed to Floor Angle 2 Pedal Released Angle 2 Pedal Pressed to Floor
All the pictures are from the inspection hole. I have not had the cover off so not sure about the splines and whether they've been greased. Sorry I'm a clutch newbie. Is my next step to pull the cover or can i inspect the splines from the peep hole.
An OBTW I just replaced my 924S clutch and got a new slave cylinder(SC) since I was there. Bought the SPEED BLEEDER and used it for the SC. You can really pump hard and push a lot of fluid through, it worked well, and you even have a spare one!
On the 928 with a flex line installed simply open the bleeder till the fluid starts to come out
Then wait till you have no visible air
Close the bleeder then remove the slave
let it hang so it’s the at the lowest point
Press the pushrod fully into the slave slowly
This will force any air the system back up to the tank
Hold the rod in for 30 seconds then slowly release the pushrod
Repeat this 2 more times then install the slave
Your clutch system should be fully bled
Note this is why you should replace the convoluted flex /hard line as doing this is not easy as the starter has to be removed for the line to be able the hang down otherwise it traps air
OP it sounds like clutch removal is your next step if bleeding doesn’t cure the sticky clutch
you can’t tell if the splines are greased or the stub shaft has damaged splines till you remove the clutch assembly
Note look for orange dust deposits where the stub enters the disc splines this will give you a hint that the clutch splines have been subjected to moisture and corrosion that could indicate spline damage VS no dust that could indicate greased splines But total disassembly is required for proper inspection
Ok, I decided to take the car off the stands to at least test the brakes and see if anything would change with the reverse and 1st grinding. Just to level set, before I started this brake booster job that ballooned into 3 other things I basically could not use 2nd and 3rd gear because they grinded so bad (even if i tried to double clutch). So took her for a spin. Brakes feel good, definitely more responsive but a little spongy so I may need to try to bleed those again. No hissing from the booster either and pedal drops a little on start like you would expect from a good booster. Now the clutch. I had 0 issues with grinding going into first and reverse! I have no idea why that would be different between on stands and on tires. My hopes began to rise. When I first shifted into 2nd and 3rd my hopes soared as they both shifted decently, but then my hopes were crushed rather quickly as the next few shifts into 2nd and 3rd gradually got worse and eventually I did not want to even try it anymore. Shifting into 1st and reverse, however, stayed good and I had no problems with 1st and REV the entire time I drove the car. One quick note I also changed the gear box oil while i was doing all this (Red Line 75W-90NS). So, the question in my mind is whether I have worn synchros in 2nd and 3rd or if I have a clutch problem that only manifests in 2nd and 3rd (4th and 5th shift fine by the way).
11-10-2023, 05:23 PM
Well I did not replace it. I am bleeding money on this car and I just could not bring myself to replace another part that was not broken 
I did pull the clutch master spool out with the power bleeder on. From what I read on other posts that is supposed to do the trick. Is my '82 harder to bleed?
