1986 928S Euro: Taking the plunge...
#61
Karsten, again many many thanks. I am nearing the end of the translations and currently preparing an excel spreadsheet with the findings! Thankfully all the problems you mentioned have not appeared (yet) in my car! Mind you Rosepassion has found a new good customer (as is partworks). I also found out that the injectors from bavarianwerke are available again (they were out of stock), although I am not sure that it will be cheaper to purchase them from there instead of Roger - doing research on customs right now.BTW did you receive the FPRs from the vendor we were discussing two weeks ago?
Last edited by PK68; 09-17-2023 at 10:59 AM.
#63
Quick update on the car: yesterday night I finally managed to have the car inspected by my engineer. He lifted the car and thoroughly checked the underside. Preliminary findings were encouraging: brakes and pads in good condition, fuel lines appear to be in a good condition, new engine mounts, bushings in no direct need of replacement. Oil leak may or may not be from the cam carriers (needs further inspection).
Things to do: front sway bar bushings and rack bushings need replacement, fun clutch ditto, exhaust baskets are to be replaced as well.
We discussed whether to replace the TB and the water pump (last changed approx ten years and 40k ago). He is of the opinion that, regardless of the condition the TB work will have to be performed. He also showed me an instrument of his, supposed to help with the tensioning: a Gates STT 1 tensioning tool ( https://picclick.co.uk/GATES-STT-1-S...380262065.html ) . Does anyone have any idea whether it could function in any way in the TB process? Any opinions would be welcome.
Panagiotis
Things to do: front sway bar bushings and rack bushings need replacement, fun clutch ditto, exhaust baskets are to be replaced as well.
We discussed whether to replace the TB and the water pump (last changed approx ten years and 40k ago). He is of the opinion that, regardless of the condition the TB work will have to be performed. He also showed me an instrument of his, supposed to help with the tensioning: a Gates STT 1 tensioning tool ( https://picclick.co.uk/GATES-STT-1-S...380262065.html ) . Does anyone have any idea whether it could function in any way in the TB process? Any opinions would be welcome.
Panagiotis
#64
This morning I had the opportunity, along with my mechanically minded and educated brother, to do some basic maintenance and get acquainted with the old lady.
We replaced the air the dirty K&N air filter with the OEM one and took out and checked a spark plug (from cylinder 4, I think, the one closest to the supporting beam from the driver side). Also changed the brake and power steering fluids and took out the left front wheel to check suspension and brakes. All in all rotor and pad seem to be in a reasonable condition. Shocks are Bilstein B6, but I cannot comment on their condition nor of the springs. Finally took off the battery for recharging and then performed a first cleaning of the well just to raise our spirits. Used Marine Nine for cleaning and was quite satisfied with the result.
One thing that I noticed is that the driver s side cylinder head is much dirtier with oil and grime than the other one, this despite the fuel rail line looking like having been replaced at some point. This was especially true around the area of cylinder 3 ? (the third one counting from the windshield).
Took some pictures and would appreciate any comments.
Spark plugs (NGK)
Doesn’t look too bad?
Front left rotor
Front left caliper
Front left shock and spring
Lower arm
Upper arm
Oil and grime on the driver’s side cylinder head
Right side of the head looks cleaner
Left hand side
Left hand side
This whitening is exactly behind the base of the spring and shock and cannot be viewed when taking photos of the whole suspension
Lady [my central asian shepherd dog] showing scant interest in the proceedings
We replaced the air the dirty K&N air filter with the OEM one and took out and checked a spark plug (from cylinder 4, I think, the one closest to the supporting beam from the driver side). Also changed the brake and power steering fluids and took out the left front wheel to check suspension and brakes. All in all rotor and pad seem to be in a reasonable condition. Shocks are Bilstein B6, but I cannot comment on their condition nor of the springs. Finally took off the battery for recharging and then performed a first cleaning of the well just to raise our spirits. Used Marine Nine for cleaning and was quite satisfied with the result.
One thing that I noticed is that the driver s side cylinder head is much dirtier with oil and grime than the other one, this despite the fuel rail line looking like having been replaced at some point. This was especially true around the area of cylinder 3 ? (the third one counting from the windshield).
Took some pictures and would appreciate any comments.
Spark plugs (NGK)
Doesn’t look too bad?
Front left rotor
Front left caliper
Front left shock and spring
Lower arm
Upper arm
Oil and grime on the driver’s side cylinder head
Right side of the head looks cleaner
Left hand side
Left hand side
This whitening is exactly behind the base of the spring and shock and cannot be viewed when taking photos of the whole suspension
Lady [my central asian shepherd dog] showing scant interest in the proceedings
Last edited by PK68; 10-02-2023 at 03:39 AM.
#65
Hello everyone,
By way of a quick update: car is stranded, waiting for the Greek bureaucracy to issue directions on the appropriate plates that historic vehicles [30+ years of age] are to carry. Being intimate with greek red tape, I am not altogether optimistic on an early resolution...
Anyway, I decided to make the most out of a bad situation and carry as many maintenance works as possible. Car is currently with the body mechanic who will take care of a few spots of rust and minor blemishes, stone chips etc.
I have decided to replace the fuel lines and would greatly appreciate any input from the members. Car is a MY86 928S, Euro [2-valve, VIN: WPOZZZ92ZGS841298]. I have determined that the appropriate fuel lines are:
Thx a lot in advance for your input.
P.S. I spent quite a lot of time in deciphering the service invoices of the previous owner. Turns out that:
The motor mounts and transmission were replaced in 2006 at 239K kms [current mileage is 290K kms].
The tensioner pulley was replaced in 2003 [195K]
Master brake cylinder and brake booster replaced in 2007 [260K].
TT extensive service, flywheel renovation and thrust bearing, pressure plate, release bearing, drive plate replaced at 264K kms in 2008.
Do you feel that I should pay particular attention to any of the above?
Panagiotis
By way of a quick update: car is stranded, waiting for the Greek bureaucracy to issue directions on the appropriate plates that historic vehicles [30+ years of age] are to carry. Being intimate with greek red tape, I am not altogether optimistic on an early resolution...
Anyway, I decided to make the most out of a bad situation and carry as many maintenance works as possible. Car is currently with the body mechanic who will take care of a few spots of rust and minor blemishes, stone chips etc.
I have decided to replace the fuel lines and would greatly appreciate any input from the members. Car is a MY86 928S, Euro [2-valve, VIN: WPOZZZ92ZGS841298]. I have determined that the appropriate fuel lines are:
- 92835618300
- 92835607900
- 92835602905
- 92835655005
- 92835618501
- 92835605301
- 92835608100
- 92835605700
- 92835603102 or 92835603101?
Thx a lot in advance for your input.
P.S. I spent quite a lot of time in deciphering the service invoices of the previous owner. Turns out that:
The motor mounts and transmission were replaced in 2006 at 239K kms [current mileage is 290K kms].
The tensioner pulley was replaced in 2003 [195K]
Master brake cylinder and brake booster replaced in 2007 [260K].
TT extensive service, flywheel renovation and thrust bearing, pressure plate, release bearing, drive plate replaced at 264K kms in 2008.
Do you feel that I should pay particular attention to any of the above?
Panagiotis
Last edited by PK68; 10-23-2023 at 11:22 AM.
#66
Price for this looks suspiciously (and temptingly…) low. They say it will fit a 86 model.
https://www.mhteile.com/en/944/9-ele...-0-261-210-003
https://www.mhteile.com/en/944/9-ele...-0-261-210-003
#67
After many delays car will enter the mechanic's shop for major maintenance in mid-February. As such I am currently hoarding spare parts. I have noticed that part no 92810772201 [ correct for M28/21, venting hose in the lubrication system, part no 27 in the diagram] is NLA. However, 928107722200 [correct for the '83 model] is readily available. Question is, will it fit? Does anybody have an idea on this? Thanks in advance.
#68
928s are far and few in Greece [probably less than 10] so it was really a surprise to find these parts in a car junkyard somewhere in rural Greece whilst checking for parts;mostly out of habit:
Seller is offering what most probably looks like a M28.22 engine [minus the oil pan] plus diff, auto trans and front/rear suspension:
Now, as it happens, next week I will be vacating nearby the seller, so I arranged for a quick visit. I know that the pictures are not "promising" but I am a bit intrigued since this is a similar engine to mine, so could prove a useful pool for parts - or a project.Question is: what should I check for? I have already been advised that I should try to crank the engine by hand.and I understand that I should also check the heads for signs of leakage. The thrust bearing should also be checked, although I am afraid this may prove impossible. Any other advice? Bear in mind that I am mechanically inept
BTW price asked for all is 2k euros. They most probably came out of a modified-body [echoes of a Strosek?] 928S, the sad remains of which [mask, front fenders + front doors] are also for sale for 850 euros. Note the hood bulge!
Seller is offering what most probably looks like a M28.22 engine [minus the oil pan] plus diff, auto trans and front/rear suspension:
Now, as it happens, next week I will be vacating nearby the seller, so I arranged for a quick visit. I know that the pictures are not "promising" but I am a bit intrigued since this is a similar engine to mine, so could prove a useful pool for parts - or a project.Question is: what should I check for? I have already been advised that I should try to crank the engine by hand.and I understand that I should also check the heads for signs of leakage. The thrust bearing should also be checked, although I am afraid this may prove impossible. Any other advice? Bear in mind that I am mechanically inept
BTW price asked for all is 2k euros. They most probably came out of a modified-body [echoes of a Strosek?] 928S, the sad remains of which [mask, front fenders + front doors] are also for sale for 850 euros. Note the hood bulge!
Last edited by PK68; 08-07-2024 at 03:26 PM.
#69
Looks like an 84 or 85 year car. So brakes and exhaust are different to your car. Why is the car scraped? Engine toast is the most common sense.
I would use a endoscope to look in the bores.
Why is the oil pan demounted? I would say valid parts are the heads, camshafts, MAF and computers and the parts around the engine.
Buy the H4 lenses.
Fenders are nice , interior of the doors, trim, mirrors etc.
I would use a endoscope to look in the bores.
Why is the oil pan demounted? I would say valid parts are the heads, camshafts, MAF and computers and the parts around the engine.
Buy the H4 lenses.
Fenders are nice , interior of the doors, trim, mirrors etc.
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