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Are you going to SITM this year??? Its' always looked interesting, certainly beautiful scenery. I hope you make it a priority and are able to make the trip now that you have enough spark plugs to pass the scrutineer.
Replaced heater valve (20 minutes)
Removed and cleaned rubber donuts on intake manifold (20 minutes)
Stood and stared at intake manifold, trying to figure out way to replace breather hose without removing said intake (35 minutes)
Swore a lot about impossibility of replacing breather hose without removing fuel rails, intake, and lord knows what else, startling the baby finches nesting in the arbor vitae (5 minutes)
Laughed hard and bagged it for the day. (5 minutes)
My torn muscle finally having healed enough to permit some movement, tonight I:
(1) Finished painting the air intake plenum.
(2) Installed a new (cheap) Clarion CD player so I can have tunes the second I bring this car back to life.
(3) Practiced using the belt tensioner gauge on the old belt. It's perfectly tensioned. I also note that the white Porsche script is still on the existing belt.. it's making me wonder if the belt has been done recently and the existing belt is OK. No matter, I am almost there and might as well replace the thing to be sure...
Waiting on parts, too. Hope to get the remaining odds and ends I need to push through to the end of this job, so I can drive this car I bought 2 1/2 weeks ago and merely drove home...
WHAT!!!!! Take a look at John Pirtle's site and he has a new and a used T-belt side by side for comparison about 1/2 way through the writeup. Because the back of the belt makes contact with a roller, I don't think there is any way that belt could have more than a 10K on it and still have the lettering. Properly tensioned and looking like new, the only reason to do the TB job now is if the tensioner and the waterpump look questionable. I suggest you post some pictures of both. If the boot on the tensioner looks good and there is no evidence of cracking or degradation of the rubber boot, and the waterpump is looking a bit shinier than the rest of the engine, I'd let it go another 10K and reinspect before I even considerd it. But if you want total piece of mind I, caution is good.
Originally posted by Thaddeus My torn muscle finally having healed enough to permit some movement, tonight I:
(1) Finished painting the air intake plenum.
(2) Installed a new (cheap) Clarion CD player so I can have tunes the second I bring this car back to life.
(3) Practiced using the belt tensioner gauge on the old belt. It's perfectly tensioned. I also note that the white Porsche script is still on the existing belt.. it's making me wonder if the belt has been done recently and the existing belt is OK. No matter, I am almost there and might as well replace the thing to be sure...
Waiting on parts, too. Hope to get the remaining odds and ends I need to push through to the end of this job, so I can drive this car I bought 2 1/2 weeks ago and merely drove home...
Light duty night, as is fitting for a Wednesday... cleaned the interior, Armoralled some stuff, lubricated some hinges and locks and things. Scraped old stickers off the glass. Want it to be spiffy when she finally rolls... Tomorrow, perhaps I'll glue some leather bits back in place on the rear glove box cover where it's coming loose. Any suggestions on the proper adhesive?
My vote for killer adhesive is "3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive". I used it to glue all of the loose door interior pieces back on. It is designed fro weatherstripping but it is really strong! I tried the 3M spray stuff and it was wimpy by comparison.
Undid wiring for stereo, redid it... put in the PAC2 weird thingy and a relay to power the factory amp. Found a problem: the relay is on the same power wire as the Clarion. So, when the power comes up in the reciever at first, all is fine. Then, when I load a CD, it draws power from the line and "dips" the voltage to the relay, which clicks off. The amp dies. Then more power is available, the Reciever powers up again, which engages the relay, which powers the amp, which starves the reciever, which dies-- clicking off the relay, which kills the amp, which makes sufficient power available for the reciever, which comes up, activating the relay which activates the amp, which starves the reciever of power, etc. You get the idea. I guess I need to get the relay (and hence the amp) an independant power feed. There shouldn't be a feedback loop in there at all... but there sure is one now.
I also replaced the little rubber adjustment **** on the gas fill door. That went a little more smoothly...
Tonight: got the stereo to work. The thing sounds crappy. I'll be bypassing the factory amp one day soon, but in the meantime, I can listen to some music on CD anyway.
Tomorrow, I replace hoses, install the thermostat, and lock the flywheel. I'm going in!
Today: replaced the thermostat, replaced some hoses that go under the intake, and got the intake and air filter reinstalled. Didn't get around to locking the flywheel. Tomorrow's goal: get the old timing belt off, and begin the installation process...
Maybe the car will be drivable by the end of Monday? Dare I hope?
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