Oh, I was asking Mr Merlin why not to crank it. I assume he was worried about hydro locking. I am not worried about the cranking as much as the running the pump for a long enough time for that.

-A

 

Hi All,

Well, I got around to testing the fuel pressure. With the pump running, no vacuum reference, I am getting around 35 psi, which I think is the correct value, so the new dampers are not blocking the path. However, turning the pump off, in about 30 seconds, the pressure dropped down to 20 psi. I don't think that's good. My guess is that one or more of the injectors are leaking into the cylinders, causing flooding. Running the pumps for testing could have caused this. I do not smell fuel, so it has to go somewhere where it is trapped. The regulator is relatively new (maybe 5 years old), and it is not leaking into the vacuum lines. Even if the return check valve is faulty, causing the leak back, it would not result in a no-start condition as long as you have pressure. My next step was going to be removing the plugs and looking inside with a boroscope with the pump running. There was some minor dripping at the connection for the fuel pressure gauge, but I doubt that would result in 15 psi pressure drop in 30 seconds.

Here are two short videos:




Thoughts?

-A

 

I am still struggling with this no-start condition. I managed to connect a spark tester to one of the plugs and lo and behold, no spark. So, it has nothing to do with the FPD swap. Somehow, while it sat for a month, something went bad.

I got three new 53B relays and swapped the ignition (IV), EZK (XVI) and fuel pump relays (XX). Still no spark. The rev meter jump when I start to crank, so hopefully it is not the CPS or the EZK. What's next on my list?

 

Is there any possiblility that the CPS connector was accidently disconnected while changing the FPR or dampeners at the back of the engine?

 

bore scope.....look for a "scope camera" for either android or iphone on ebay...$20ish. the cameras are tiny and most come with tiny built in led lights.

 

I see the rev counter jump when trying to start. I don't think that is the issue.

 

I have one. How will that help diagnose a no spark issue?

 

Alright, problem has been solved. I like to close out threads once issues have been resolved so others can use it as a resource.

First, a friend came over with his 928 and we tried out my EZF/EZK in his and it worked, so bullet dodged, that was all ok. While I thought the rev counter indicated that the CPS was fine, my friend noticed that a single jump of the needle does not show it to be actually good. When good, it should be going up and down while cranking, not just a single jump. So, we looked at the CPS and its wiring. I didn't notice, but its connection was slightly apart. The plastic housing of the connection was a bit apart. I connected them together and she started right up. I "secured" the connection together with some electrical tape. So, here we are. Back on the road again.