Clutch Master Cylinder VS GTS
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
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So far the GTS is winning.
I've been trying the string method - this worked great on my 87.
But, the GTS' PS plumbing and booster size is different. 10" vs 12" diameter?
That prevents the CMC from being pulled into position.
Unless someone on this board can tell me different I think I have to remove the brake master cylinder and booster to replace the CMC.
Before I tear the car apart I have a question.
Can I disconnect the CMC to slave and get the CMC into position using the string method and then attach the line or will the diameter of the brake booster prevent that?
I can't see any other way to do the job with out removing all the above.
KB
I've been trying the string method - this worked great on my 87.
But, the GTS' PS plumbing and booster size is different. 10" vs 12" diameter?
That prevents the CMC from being pulled into position.
Unless someone on this board can tell me different I think I have to remove the brake master cylinder and booster to replace the CMC.
Before I tear the car apart I have a question.
Can I disconnect the CMC to slave and get the CMC into position using the string method and then attach the line or will the diameter of the brake booster prevent that?
I can't see any other way to do the job with out removing all the above.
KB
#2
Team Owner
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from the foot well area remove the 2 lower booster nuts and washers,
loosen the 2 top nuts 5 turns ,
pull the brake MC forwards and upwards gently so you dont damage the gray boot or the piston under it on the booster.
This should give you enough room,
NOTE you might be able to simply press the brake pedal to push the assembly forward use a stick on the seat then motor the seat forward.
Warning watch the gray boot and the piston under it if you scratch it then you will need to replace the booster.
You may need a helper to hold the assembly while you futz with the CMC.
Of course these instructions have to be verified by the mechanic on the job.
loosen the 2 top nuts 5 turns ,
pull the brake MC forwards and upwards gently so you dont damage the gray boot or the piston under it on the booster.
This should give you enough room,
NOTE you might be able to simply press the brake pedal to push the assembly forward use a stick on the seat then motor the seat forward.
Warning watch the gray boot and the piston under it if you scratch it then you will need to replace the booster.
You may need a helper to hold the assembly while you futz with the CMC.
Of course these instructions have to be verified by the mechanic on the job.
Last edited by Mrmerlin; 02-05-2023 at 07:04 PM.
#3
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
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from the foot well area remove the 2 lower booster nuts and washers,
loosen the 2 top nuts 5 turns ,
pull the brake MC forwards and upwards gently so you dont damage the gray boot or the piston under it on the booster.
This should give you enough room,
NOTE you might be able to simply press the brake pedal to push the assembly forward use a stick on the seat then motor the seat forward.
Warning watch the gray boot and the piston under it if you scratch it then you will need to replace the booster.
You may need a helper to hold the assembly while you futz with the CMC.
Of course these instructions have to be verified by the mechanic on the job.
loosen the 2 top nuts 5 turns ,
pull the brake MC forwards and upwards gently so you dont damage the gray boot or the piston under it on the booster.
This should give you enough room,
NOTE you might be able to simply press the brake pedal to push the assembly forward use a stick on the seat then motor the seat forward.
Warning watch the gray boot and the piston under it if you scratch it then you will need to replace the booster.
You may need a helper to hold the assembly while you futz with the CMC.
Of course these instructions have to be verified by the mechanic on the job.
I'll give that a try.
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Gary Knox (02-08-2023)
#4
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
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I gave it a try and the snout is inside the car. But, not without a fight.
I wrapped a length of mechanics wire in the groove to the CMC snout and passed the other end through the hole.
Between my hood support pressing the brake pedal down and yanking on the wire on the snout I did finally get the CMC into position.
Taking a moment to enjoy a small victory before bolting the CMC.
Thanks to you Stan!
I wrapped a length of mechanics wire in the groove to the CMC snout and passed the other end through the hole.
Between my hood support pressing the brake pedal down and yanking on the wire on the snout I did finally get the CMC into position.
Taking a moment to enjoy a small victory before bolting the CMC.
Thanks to you Stan!