crushingday

Is it ok to run it for extended periods of time with the cap loose as long as coolant level and temperature stay ok? I drove for a while the other day with the cap loose and everything seemed fine.

928NOOBIE

gbgastowers

It is a crapshoot. I had no problem with mine but expected the worst. Same with heads and water pump

checkmate1996

I just did this a 5 months ago. First three came out great. The passenger side rear towards firewall gave me hell. Tried heat, cold, this, that. Eventually came out to welding a nut on. It took three different weld attempts and then it finally came out. All in all, i think it took a week just for the one bolt. Follow all the advice on here or it gets ugly and still could.

Lawrencejuliano

I had a go at this today, after a build-up of anxiety over this job but an intermittent leak from the lower gasket that I couldn't continue to ignore. Unfortunately my fears were realized, and even with care both passenger side bolts snapped about 1/4" into the water bridge. One of the driver side bolts came out, with heavy corrosion, but the one at the back I simply can't get to turn a millimeter and I'm scared of it snapping also (I think my water bridge needs cutting at that point...).

I tried removing the oil filler to get a better tool on it, but it seems like the water bridge needs to come out first. Is a 6mm alley key the only option on this one?

This has been a real downer, I had a great drive in it this morning and knew this wasn't going to end well.

Mrmerlin

drill small holes adjacent to the bolt shanks and fill them with PB blaster

linderpat

I’m not following Stan. What would that do?

crushingday

Ed, I am the original poster and ended up not atempting it myself. But rather took it to Stan (MrMerlin for those who don't know) and had him do mine. Your drilling hole at an angle that can reach the stuck bolt from it's side and onto the threads and then using PB blaster. Does that make sense?

linderpat

Aha, that's what I suspected, but never heard of that before. Yes, makes sense. Very creative procedure!

Lawrencejuliano

I got it out - soaked the spark plug hole with ATF & Acetone for a couple of days, attacked the top with Kroil and finally got an impact wrench onto it. Had to remove the plenum to move the oil filler just enough to get it in there.

Went slowly at it, turning back and forth for the past few hours but it finally came out. Now to get the water bridge out and then those broken bolts.

Mrmerlin

if you follow this drilling procedure,
then you fill the drilled holes with JB weld after the bolts are out and the WB is on the bench

Lawrencejuliano

EDIT: I managed to get the passenger side to free up, though it seems that there is not enough clearance to remove the bridge with the two studs still in place. I guess this is the point at which people start slicing the bridge, but I'd still like to avoid that. I'm going to try a recommendation of a mobile bolt extractor, apparently he can work wonders. Unless someone has a better idea or a reason not to.


My water bridge seems absolutely frozen on the two broken passenger side bolts, is this par for the course? I've been whaling away with a rubber mallet and trying to pry it from beneath.

I really don't want to cut this thing in half...

Mrmerlin

first see if they have a good part at 928 INTL if they do then hammer it ,
otherwise spray the broken bolts with PB and use a heat source to warm things.
NOTE drain the block first

Lawrencejuliano

Sorry, I don't quite follow - use a hammer to split it?

And then once it's off use heat to remove the studs (with the block drained)?

Thanks Stan

Mrmerlin

if they have a good used part them you can get mid evil on the part with a BFH or a sawzall.
NOTE before you use heat on the WB to help the PB soak in ,
drain the block,
as soon as heat is applied to a block full of the coolant it will quickly absorb the heat.