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New ISV is in. I still have starting and idling problems. Starts and shuts off right away. I now have it in my driveway sitting and cannot start it to get back in the garage.
Symptoms:
Starts and immediately turns off.
When it did run, it started idling fine and then got rough.
I applied throttle to about 1500 RPMs and then it just died.
Further sadness, during one of the starts, gave some throttle and backfire through the intake, saw the whole hood move, crap. The throttle body and the air filter are all loose. Will have to take it apart and inspect it. This does not look good.
I'm at a loss. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Nope, I do have bigger problems. The throttle body appears to have broken, I can move the air intake easily and the whole throttle body moves, uh oh. Will remove the upper half and see if the motor is salvageable.
Will update soon and yes will take care of the harness then.
the short harness usually snaps off at the connection to the car side of the harness.
Please post pictures of what your describing,
so we can have a better idea how to help you
This is what I am seeing. Heard a backfire through the manifold, the hood moved, air plenums disconnected at the rubber. I only have MP4 video. But the center intake and the air intake moves as if a bolt snapped. Top end refresh....
If you look at the picture below (not mine) but I can move the center stack, where the middle throttle body is with my hand. And the body where the air filter is attached also moves. That's the big concern. Again, any thoughts are welcomed. Guess that would be my air leak
All I have begun stripping the top of the engine and I have a few questions:
I loosened the Fuel line to re-leave the pressure on the passenger side fuel rail (see photo near blue tape). I thought I saw a small metal ball fall out (or a washer). Found nothing, searching the floor. Is there a small ball bearing in the end of the fuel line on the passengers side?
Will the fuel eventually stop coming out or is the pressure from the fuel tank going to force fuel through the line? I think no because the tank is below the line...
All I have begun stripping the top of the engine and I have a few questions:
I loosened the Fuel line to re-leave the pressure on the passenger side fuel rail (see photo near blue tape). I thought I saw a small metal ball fall out (or a washer). Found nothing, searching the floor. Is there a small ball bearing in the end of the fuel line on the passengers side?
Will the fuel eventually stop coming out or is the pressure from the fuel tank going to force fuel through the line? I think no because the tank is below the line...
Thanks guys.
Bob
1. Yes, there is a ball that makes the seal at the test cap. You need it so hopefully it turns up, if not I'll measure mine so you can find a replacement.
2. Yes, it will stop flowing eventually.
1. Yes, there is a ball that makes the seal at the test cap. You need it so hopefully it turns up, if not I'll measure mine so you can find a replacement.
2. Yes, it will stop flowing eventually.
You are awesome, thanks. Looking this morning while it is light!
Good news, Found it on top the motor, magnet got it out! Appreciate the feedback Jeremy
put a dab of grease into the cap to hold the ball ,
Roger has new *****.
NOTE dont super tighten the cap,
as it will press the ball into the rail and deform the rail threads .
The rubber TB mounts have probably sheared off so they all need to be replaced. use
PB blaster on all the broken off mounts then torch them.
NOTE use MAPP gas torch ,
cut a screw slot into each broken off mount,
so a screwdriver can be used ,
and or a hammer and chisel to turn it out.
Drain the block of coolant first so the heating sequence will work.
Removed the throttle body and will clean it up to inspect. I am not totally sure how it mounts to the block, and may need some guidance there. As indicated, it rocked side to side as if a bolt had sheered off. Will clean and inspect.
put a dab of grease into the cap to hold the ball ,
Roger has new *****.
NOTE dont super tighten the cap,
as it will press the ball into the rail and deform the rail threads .
The rubber TB mounts have probably sheared off so they all need to be replaced. use
PB blaster on all the broken off mounts then torch them.
NOTE use MAPP gas torch ,
cut a screw slot into each broken off mount,
so a screwdriver can be used ,
and or a hammer and chisel to turn it out.
Drain the block of coolant first so the heating sequence will work.
Thank you. I found chunks in the valley under the Throttle Body, assuming it is mounts. Is there any other way to remove these? I will try to cut the slot first. Uncomfortable with a torch where I cleaned up oil from 37 years of service.
Since I don't know I'll ask, can I drill them out or would it go into the engine?
Thank you. I found chunks in the valley under the Throttle Body, assuming it is mounts. Is there any other way to remove these? I will try to cut the slot first. Uncomfortable with a torch where I cleaned up oil from 37 years of service.
Since I don't know I'll ask, can I drill them out or would it go into the engine?
Thanks,
Bob
I have always had good luck with a hammer and chisel. Once you get them started turning, you can generally screw them right out. YMMV
Good Luck!
Yeah those TB mounts break a lot.
And I’ve had the same thoughts as MrMerlin the entire time reading the thread…you have some serious connector/wiring issues. Not improperly wired per se, but just brittle, corroded and loose. One time I fiddled with everything forever then it just ended up being bad/old connector at MAF! You need at least a ton if deoxit if not new connectors.
Yeah those TB mounts break a lot.
And I’ve had the same thoughts as MrMerlin the entire time reading the thread…you have some serious connector/wiring issues. Not improperly wired per se, but just brittle, corroded and loose. One time I fiddled with everything forever then it just ended up being bad/old connector at MAF! You need at least a ton if deoxit if not new connectors.
PB Blaster, Dremel to cut a slot, and the TB Mounts came out with a screw drive and chisel. Now just waiting parts. My suspicion on the start and not run, as many have suggested, is one vacuum line to the passenger fuel regulator was not connected. I cannot tell if it was pulled during disassembly, or it wiggled free. Going to plug all the lines and test with a mighty vac.
03-11-2023, 01:14 PM
