update on the GT
04-26-2004, 08:43 AM
#16
Three Wheelin'
Originally posted by fst951
You will probably need all new guides so make certain to get the newer bronze phosphorus as they are a little more pricey, but they keep the valve train cooler.
You will probably need all new guides so make certain to get the newer bronze phosphorus as they are a little more pricey, but they keep the valve train cooler.
04-26-2004, 11:29 AM
#17
Rennlist Member
Hi Steve,
I normally have them in stock, I will have to check. I didn't make this post to sell valve guides however. You can probably talk to Devek as well. If you want, drop me a line at motorsport@exolo.com. They aren't very expensive, but worth the little extra. One more thing to not. Valve guides come in standard 0.002" and 0.005" oversize. Make sure that your guides have been knocked out and checked for the needed size before ordering, otherwise you will get Std sizing which may actually fall out after a few heat cycles. It is easy insurance to measure before you order.
Good luck and don't feel compelled to buy these from me. We probably make about $12 on 32 guides anyway. If you engine was a low mileage one, you may only need to replace the exhaust.
Hope that helps
I normally have them in stock, I will have to check. I didn't make this post to sell valve guides however. You can probably talk to Devek as well. If you want, drop me a line at motorsport@exolo.com. They aren't very expensive, but worth the little extra. One more thing to not. Valve guides come in standard 0.002" and 0.005" oversize. Make sure that your guides have been knocked out and checked for the needed size before ordering, otherwise you will get Std sizing which may actually fall out after a few heat cycles. It is easy insurance to measure before you order.
Good luck and don't feel compelled to buy these from me. We probably make about $12 on 32 guides anyway. If you engine was a low mileage one, you may only need to replace the exhaust.
Hope that helps
04-26-2004, 01:42 PM
#18
Drifting
Compression Testing
Very sorry to hear your news.
Do not assume that your compression test numbers are fatal. Although I didn't do a test on mine before removing the heads, it was clear once I removed them that the test would not have been foolproof. The carbon deposits in my engine were dislodged and stopping the valves from closing properly.
You have obviously already replaced the belt in order to get the compression numbers, so have you actually tried starting it? I don't think any deposits will clear until the engine has run a little.
On the minus side you do have the higher lift GT cams so there is a greater chance of damage. On the plus side the belt failed when cranking rather than running so less oil pressure and therefore less lift from the lifters.
Good luck
Do not assume that your compression test numbers are fatal. Although I didn't do a test on mine before removing the heads, it was clear once I removed them that the test would not have been foolproof. The carbon deposits in my engine were dislodged and stopping the valves from closing properly.
You have obviously already replaced the belt in order to get the compression numbers, so have you actually tried starting it? I don't think any deposits will clear until the engine has run a little.
On the minus side you do have the higher lift GT cams so there is a greater chance of damage. On the plus side the belt failed when cranking rather than running so less oil pressure and therefore less lift from the lifters.
Good luck
04-26-2004, 07:18 PM
#19
Drifting
fst951 has covered the crucial point about tensioner oil, a little while ago I suggested that the tensioner boot could well have been the culprit in my case, as mine was cracked and almost unrecognizable. This would have caused the tensioner to run dry and the tension to effectively increase as the engine warmed. Ironically the lack of dampening effect could also have caused the warning light to come on and the belt to be tightened further to compensate thus compounding the problem.
04-26-2004, 09:47 PM
#20
Deleted
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Yep, my tensioner was new..but likely not filled..and just tightened to fix the warning and when the warning just wouldn't go away...they bloody well bypassed the tensioner....buggers the PO mechanics they were....
As far as my compression numbers, I am pretty happy with them....little disappointed that it was the last one that was bad rather than the first..as the excitement level as we approached was pretty high...only to be dashed...I will likely try one more time before pulling..but don't expect any miracles..as I seem to have used mine up till now ;-)
I am getting back in to pull the intake and the head this Wednesday so I will report back then...
Later,
Tom
midlman@rennlist.net
89GT
As far as my compression numbers, I am pretty happy with them....little disappointed that it was the last one that was bad rather than the first..as the excitement level as we approached was pretty high...only to be dashed...I will likely try one more time before pulling..but don't expect any miracles..as I seem to have used mine up till now ;-)
I am getting back in to pull the intake and the head this Wednesday so I will report back then...
Later,
Tom
midlman@rennlist.net
89GT
Originally posted by UKKid35
fst951 has covered the crucial point about tensioner oil, a little while ago I suggested that the tensioner boot could well have been the culprit in my case, as mine was cracked and almost unrecognizable. This would have caused the tensioner to run dry and the tension to effectively increase as the engine warmed. Ironically the lack of dampening effect could also have caused the warning light to come on and the belt to be tightened further to compensate thus compounding the problem.
fst951 has covered the crucial point about tensioner oil, a little while ago I suggested that the tensioner boot could well have been the culprit in my case, as mine was cracked and almost unrecognizable. This would have caused the tensioner to run dry and the tension to effectively increase as the engine warmed. Ironically the lack of dampening effect could also have caused the warning light to come on and the belt to be tightened further to compensate thus compounding the problem.
