Window switch drivers window.
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,269
Likes: 107
From: Arvada, CO
I suspect that your new switch hung up on the edge of the console and triggered the circuit breaker in the window motor. It's happened to me.
Disconnect the battery. Then pull the the door panel (there are good illustrated guides if you search). You will see the regulator, which is the geared arc attached to the bottom of the window. The window motor is attached to the regulator and is visible through a port toward the front of the door. Look up instructions for removing the motor and regulator.
It is straightforward and just a bunch of 10mm bolts attaching the regulator and motor to each other and the door, but you need to be careful in removing and installing so that the motor and regulator are lined up for window travel from all the way down to up. I always (and, yes, always, because I've done this a few times) tape the window all the way up before removing regulator and motor. Tape it good enough so it is snug and won't fall when you are working. Disconnect the wires to the motor,
Once you have the motor out, carefully take it apart and clean it. A little emory cloth on the brush, some contact cleaner on the armature. /bench test it with a 12V battery. Verify it is working. If not, go on eBay and search for a new window brush assembly. They are about $20-$25. But, there is a good chance once you clean the motor, it will work.
While the motor is apart, remove any old dry grease and apply a little white lithium.
Then, put it all back together. It's a hassle, but it is straightforward and you will understand how it all fits together. I'd also inspect other things inside the door, like the white plastic guides that guide the window up and down.
Matt
Disconnect the battery. Then pull the the door panel (there are good illustrated guides if you search). You will see the regulator, which is the geared arc attached to the bottom of the window. The window motor is attached to the regulator and is visible through a port toward the front of the door. Look up instructions for removing the motor and regulator.
It is straightforward and just a bunch of 10mm bolts attaching the regulator and motor to each other and the door, but you need to be careful in removing and installing so that the motor and regulator are lined up for window travel from all the way down to up. I always (and, yes, always, because I've done this a few times) tape the window all the way up before removing regulator and motor. Tape it good enough so it is snug and won't fall when you are working. Disconnect the wires to the motor,
Once you have the motor out, carefully take it apart and clean it. A little emory cloth on the brush, some contact cleaner on the armature. /bench test it with a 12V battery. Verify it is working. If not, go on eBay and search for a new window brush assembly. They are about $20-$25. But, there is a good chance once you clean the motor, it will work.
While the motor is apart, remove any old dry grease and apply a little white lithium.
Then, put it all back together. It's a hassle, but it is straightforward and you will understand how it all fits together. I'd also inspect other things inside the door, like the white plastic guides that guide the window up and down.
Matt
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Joined: Sep 2010
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Likes: 1,044
From: Boulder Creek, CA
I suspect that your new switch hung up on the edge of the console and triggered the circuit breaker in the window motor. It's happened to me.
Disconnect the battery. Then pull the the door panel (there are good illustrated guides if you search). You will see the regulator, which is the geared arc attached to the bottom of the window. The window motor is attached to the regulator and is visible through a port toward the front of the door. Look up instructions for removing the motor and regulator.
It is straightforward and just a bunch of 10mm bolts attaching the regulator and motor to each other and the door, but you need to be careful in removing and installing so that the motor and regulator are lined up for window travel from all the way down to up. I always (and, yes, always, because I've done this a few times) tape the window all the way up before removing regulator and motor. Tape it good enough so it is snug and won't fall when you are working. Disconnect the wires to the motor,
Once you have the motor out, carefully take it apart and clean it. A little emory cloth on the brush, some contact cleaner on the armature. /bench test it with a 12V battery. Verify it is working. If not, go on eBay and search for a new window brush assembly. They are about $20-$25. But, there is a good chance once you clean the motor, it will work.
While the motor is apart, remove any old dry grease and apply a little white lithium.
Then, put it all back together. It's a hassle, but it is straightforward and you will understand how it all fits together. I'd also inspect other things inside the door, like the white plastic guides that guide the window up and down.
Matt
Disconnect the battery. Then pull the the door panel (there are good illustrated guides if you search). You will see the regulator, which is the geared arc attached to the bottom of the window. The window motor is attached to the regulator and is visible through a port toward the front of the door. Look up instructions for removing the motor and regulator.
It is straightforward and just a bunch of 10mm bolts attaching the regulator and motor to each other and the door, but you need to be careful in removing and installing so that the motor and regulator are lined up for window travel from all the way down to up. I always (and, yes, always, because I've done this a few times) tape the window all the way up before removing regulator and motor. Tape it good enough so it is snug and won't fall when you are working. Disconnect the wires to the motor,
Once you have the motor out, carefully take it apart and clean it. A little emory cloth on the brush, some contact cleaner on the armature. /bench test it with a 12V battery. Verify it is working. If not, go on eBay and search for a new window brush assembly. They are about $20-$25. But, there is a good chance once you clean the motor, it will work.
While the motor is apart, remove any old dry grease and apply a little white lithium.
Then, put it all back together. It's a hassle, but it is straightforward and you will understand how it all fits together. I'd also inspect other things inside the door, like the white plastic guides that guide the window up and down.
Matt
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Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Boulder Creek, CA
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Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Long Island, NY
Did your new switch have the plastic plug on the end or did you have to put the wires in the correct locations?
Are you sure all the connections are making contact and are in the right location.
Are you sure all the connections are making contact and are in the right location.
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Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 798
Likes: 104
From: Dallas/Ft. Worth
I've had situations where wires popped loose where they are attached to the back of the switch while re-installing them. if it were me i would just check for continuity across the pins on the plug (pushing the switch both ways)....if good, check for voltage for the pins against ground.... if you have continuity but no 12v, the problem is upstream....if you have 12v the problem is downstream.
my suggestion, while you're at it...clean the white "slider" piece and the shaft that the window rides up and down on, and rub on a bit of any type of silicone oil/gel mixed with graphite powder. it's not corrosive to the plastic...in fact rubbing a layer of graphite on to the point that is sort of "painted" supposedly reduces oxidation by up to 90 percent. also, the silicone will eventually dry up but it will still act as a binder for the graphite. i couldn't believe the difference in how easily my window went up and down after cleaned off teh lithium grease or whatever was on it before and lubricated with silicone/graphite. i believe that greg or someone else here mentioned a spray can product that is similar to this mix but i don't recall what it is
my suggestion, while you're at it...clean the white "slider" piece and the shaft that the window rides up and down on, and rub on a bit of any type of silicone oil/gel mixed with graphite powder. it's not corrosive to the plastic...in fact rubbing a layer of graphite on to the point that is sort of "painted" supposedly reduces oxidation by up to 90 percent. also, the silicone will eventually dry up but it will still act as a binder for the graphite. i couldn't believe the difference in how easily my window went up and down after cleaned off teh lithium grease or whatever was on it before and lubricated with silicone/graphite. i believe that greg or someone else here mentioned a spray can product that is similar to this mix but i don't recall what it is