928S4 key blanks
#16
Drifting
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I had a similar problem with one of my 928s. The driver door lock was changed and had a different key. I took the lock out and sent it to Tony with my original key and he was able to rekey the lock.
To the original poster, I think if you contact him he might be able to help you with your key problem.http://www.lockandkeyid.com/
Tony Euganeo
Address: 501 Folcroft Avenue, Sharon Hill, PA 19079
We prefer that you CALL rather than write email.
Tel. No.: (610) 461-0519
E-mail Address: daskeyman@verizon.net
Bilal
To the original poster, I think if you contact him he might be able to help you with your key problem.http://www.lockandkeyid.com/
Tony Euganeo
Address: 501 Folcroft Avenue, Sharon Hill, PA 19079
We prefer that you CALL rather than write email.
Tel. No.: (610) 461-0519
E-mail Address: daskeyman@verizon.net
Bilal
The following users liked this post:
Gary Knox (09-20-2021)
#17
Pro
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Taking the door locks apart is a pain, but doable.
The ignition lock was worse, and not something I'd suggest unless it's damaged. (At least in my '78. The guard plates and alarm functionality in the door might make them worse on a later car...)
My car had a single, hand filed key with it when it came to me, and plenty of damage to the ignition lock, so it all came apart to be cleaned. I found that the blades were bent from the key's poor transitions and prior owners forcing it into and out of the ignition, so I ended up having to flatten the tumbler blades, as well as scrounging some replacements from broken tumblers.
That all said, on my '78 the tumbler blades all had 1-4 stamp marked on one side, making the bitting of the blade easily identified.
I was able to get a key from Keys4Classics by reading off the order of the key bitting (reversed, but they were able to correct me on the direction) to confirm their best guess based on the picture of the rat-tail filed key.
The ignition lock was worse, and not something I'd suggest unless it's damaged. (At least in my '78. The guard plates and alarm functionality in the door might make them worse on a later car...)
My car had a single, hand filed key with it when it came to me, and plenty of damage to the ignition lock, so it all came apart to be cleaned. I found that the blades were bent from the key's poor transitions and prior owners forcing it into and out of the ignition, so I ended up having to flatten the tumbler blades, as well as scrounging some replacements from broken tumblers.
That all said, on my '78 the tumbler blades all had 1-4 stamp marked on one side, making the bitting of the blade easily identified.
I was able to get a key from Keys4Classics by reading off the order of the key bitting (reversed, but they were able to correct me on the direction) to confirm their best guess based on the picture of the rat-tail filed key.
#18
Instructor
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
…That all said, on my '78 the tumbler blades all had 1-4 stamp marked on one side, making the bitting of the blade easily identified.
I was able to get a key from Keys4Classics by reading off the order of the key bitting (reversed, but they were able to correct me on the direction) to confirm their best guess based on the picture of the rat-tail filed key.
I was able to get a key from Keys4Classics by reading off the order of the key bitting (reversed, but they were able to correct me on the direction) to confirm their best guess based on the picture of the rat-tail filed key.
1-4 makes sense as the end of the key is 5, i.e. represents a cut right through. With only 4 possible depths, it is relatively easy to read the bit/cut codes from a key. But of course you need a key to do that.
![Frown](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)