Looneybin

I’m trying to get my new to me 86 to start for the first time in many years of sitting in storage

I’ve completed the FOES and upgraded to the PK tensioner, flushed out the old fuel, ( less than a quart, ) added some new fuel and it won’t fire.
there is some kind of aftermarket anti theft system installed - see picture - that has a plug.
i had to unplug the fob, and clean and plug back in to get it to crank over, now it cranks, but still no start.
it will sputter with starting fluid, so I know it’s getting spark, just no fuel

i jumpered the fuel pump relay, so I know the relay is likely not the issue

is it possible this aftermarket anti theft is also blocking the fuel pump?
i don’t want to just start pulling wires to disconnect it, as I will likely do major damage

the fuel pump looks like it’s fresh out of the box, but I guess it could be bad
there is no fuel getting to the rail

i need help from the brain trust here
thanks
Brent

Kiln_Red

S3s can "diesel" on ether. You need to visually verify spark.

Looneybin

It was stone cold, doesn’t it need some heat to diesel?
i also pulled the plug on the end of the fuel rail and it was dry.

i’ll check tomorrow if I’m getting power to the fuel pump and report back

Kiln_Red

Less than most realize.

Verify that you have a hot battery. If you haven't removed the fuel pump cover, go ahead and do this. Jumper the fuel pump relay (XX). Go back to the rear of the car and see if the pump is buzzing. Leave your jumper wire in place if it isn't running. Check to see if your getting power to the pump with a meter or a test light. If varnished fuel trashed your pump, then you'll see power out to the pump and it may start to become warm to the touch after a couple of minutes.

With 85-86 US cars, it's best to baseline with a CE panel and ground cleaning/servicing, engine harness inspection/replacement, a known working or rebuilt MAF, and a fresh CPS sensor.

If you observed no fuel being emitted from the fuel rail with the cap removed and the pump jumpered (and no power to the pump), then you already know where you need to go first.

If you still have no start after the fuel pump is sorted, then start going through the things I suggest above.

linderpat

I think the aftermarket gadget can be part of the problem. If you can trace the wiring to it and eliminate it, and put it back to the stock config, I would do that next, then start baselining the things Austin says above. The alarm systems can act on a car in very strange ways.

Looneybin

Update
there is power to the fuel pump, but it’s only 9.8 ~ 10.2 volts
head scratcher
i also can’t get the hard line that goes to the fuel filter disconnected, the bracket just deflects, and there is no way to remove the pump with that line still attached
tempted to cut it off and just replace it
edit to add, the battery is new and fully charged

Shark2626

Stop. Once you reach the point of cutting pieces off of your car you are lost. Kano Kroil is an excellent penetrating oil, or whatever your favorite brand is, and then two wrenches used appropriately.

There are a few small red wires attached to your battery positive terminal, one of them goes to your fuel pump relay. Disassemble all of those wires and clean them very well, then reassemble and tighten them down fully. Consider fully cleaning your CE panel if that doesn’t get 12V to where it should be. OTOH, did you measure your battery voltage? If that is in the 10V range then you are chasing a ghost with this, it’s the battery.

davek9

^^^ what shark2626 said^^^
Check the fuel pump fuse too make sure its not melted due to a dirty/corroded contacts/socket.

Curious, why did you try removing the pump if you suspected low power to the pump, a quick test would have been to just place 12v on the pump and see if it spins, right?

The "S" fuel pipe that connects the pump to the fuel filter can be extremely difficult to remove w/ out damage if it has not been regularly serviced/cleaned.
Order a new "S" pipe and new copper sealing washers, else you will be fighting small leaks.

Dave K

Looneybin

thanks for the info
I tested the power at the pump while the motor was being cranked over, so that might account for the voltage drop
don't worry, i'm not taking a saw to anything, just frustration coming out
there is no place to hold the pump with a second wrench, the elec posts are in the way

I'm trying to pull the pump, because i suspect it's bad, and i'd rather bench test it than while on my back under the car

the FP fuse is good, but i'll spray it down with cleaner just to be sure
I have 12+ volts at the battery and the jump post, so that should rule out a bad battery

next step is to put voltage directly to the pump and see what it does
i'll keep you all posted

Shark2626

Honestly I’m not super familiar with your MY, but you should be able to put one wrench on the fuel filter end and another on the fitting that is mated to it, With the pump the two fittings mated together should be obvious.

Usually the FP runs for just a few seconds when you first turn the key, you will hear it if the cover is off and the hatch is open. It doesn’t come back on until the car is started.

With the FP relay out and a jumper in place the fuel pump will run constantly, you will hear it clearly. It will keep running as long as that jumper is there so remove it when you are done.

Looneybin

The pump makes no sound, either jumpered or with the relay in place and the motor cranking, i'm leaning to it being toast.
I'll try hitting it with 12V (maybe with a battery charger?) and see if it moves, i was just hoping to do that on the bench, not under the car.

I thought the pump didn't start to get power until the motor was turning? it gets signal from the CPS? (the tach needle was bouncing BTW)
that was the case when i had the tester on it and had my trusted assistant crank the motor, as soon as it cranked, it saw power, but only just 10+/-V
could be voltage drop do to the load on the battery??

the elec connection posts are in the way of getting a second wrench on the pump, maybe i'll try a wrench on the other end and see if i can get enough torque on it

hernanca

Just to verify a data point: the car has never run while in your possession? (I.e., a "ran when parked" type purchase.)

Jumping the fuel pump relay gives power to the fuel pump - the motor does not need to be turning.

Kiln_Red

Please specify how and what relay you jumpered.

Have you visually verified spark? If not, do so now. You may be wasting your time with the pump if your CPS sensor is baked at the harness connector. This is very common.

Looneybin

i jumped the posts on the fuel pump relay with a jump wire
the only way i verified spark was that it briefly ran on starting fluid, but you indicated it may just be dieseling

The tach needle bounces when cranked, IIRC that is a sign the CPS is functional

Looneybin

yes, it "ran when parked" i know, famous last words
i've tried jumping the relay - no fuel pump joy
I know the relay doesn't provide power when the motor is not turning, and the jumper overrides that

i'm going to try powering the pump direct and see where that takes the saga
still no pump joy on direct power, than i would think it's safe to assume the pump is toast