Correct , the only way to operate the Injectors is to Manually attach 2 wires off a 9 v battery , and the injectors do operate

 

Re-read my post again. The injectors have not failed, you proved that with the 9V battery.

Something is preventing the injectors from firing. 12V at the injectors is only one tiny part of the overall equation.

The process of firing the injectors is very simple and I detailed that out above. You need to check, in this order:
1. Temp II sensor
2. L-Jet Brain (you already ruled that out unless something is frying every brain you connect to the car).
3. AFM
4. Temperature Time Switch / sensor

A little birdie (Colin) just suggested to jumper the fuel injection relay. I know you said you check it, but better safe than sorry.

Do you own a multi-meter? Pull off the plug on the temp II sensor, measure the resistance across the two terminals and report back.

 

the ONLY way it runs is with Raw Fuel added by means of spreading across the air filter , it will start immediately and idle at normal Idle speed as if nothing is wrong
the engine sounds well tuned and runs until the fuel is gone then the idle will begin to drop , then shut down completely .

 

Ok, that confirms the ignition system is OK or at least functioning enough to start the car.

You've confirmed you have proper fuel pressure in the rail - the fuel pump is working

You've confirmed the injectors fire & spray fuel if triggered via a 9 volt battery

Based on all this information, my last post still stands: The injectors are not firing. Measuring 12V at the injector terminal is only a part of the formula to a working injector


Do you own a multi-meter? Of so, put it on "OHMS" and measure the resistance across the temp II sensor. If this sensor or the harness connected to this sensor are damaged, the injectors will not fire.

 

I did check temp II sensor at 65 degree ODA with cold engine Ohms : in 2.51 K
I also checked Temp Time switch at 65 ODA with Cold engine Ohms : 36.0 ohms

 

Cool, one more item off the list.

I skipped over the fuel injection relay originally since you said that was checked. But at this point need to go back there.

The XVI relay has 5 pins, two of which are both an "87" terminal (I don't know all the specific terminology here). A more common relay with the same pin configuration have an 87a and 87b terminal and the relay switches between the two. This kind of realy will not work.

Make sure the one you are using has this configuration on it:

 

tyour testing of these stated the Temp II sensor should have a 12k ohm resistance at 64 degree I measured 2.51 or 2510 ohms this is well below 12,000 ohm ??
the time switch ONLY activates below 37 degrees and for 8 secs. according to its specs .

is the temp II sensor ok with the ohms resistance it has ??

 

the Fuel Injection Relay XVI is the very same as you show with both 87 together . there is NO 87A or 87B just two 87 terminals that appear to be connected internally

 

This Green wire inside the electrical compartment that connects to the O2 sensor , do you know where it is run to ??? I am assuming it is the wire connected to the distributor , the harness in the engine compartment shows the green wire
connected to the distributor is not connected to the ECU , and runs back the inside fender right side disappearing under the coolant tank, im assuming it resurfaces in the electrical compartment and is the cracked plug i was referring to.
not sure where it goes . any Ideas ?? im out of them.

 

1983 928 tech bulletin says the O2 sensor can be completely disconnected while checking the CO , that would tell me the engine should run with an elevated CO nonetheless it would or should run.

 

the green wire for the O2 should run to the L-Jet computer. It is not associated with the green wire for the ignition. the "Green" is the covering over the shielding. essentially there is a braided outer wire that covers the inner signal wire. the outer shielding is then connected to ground, the shielding is there to eliminate electrical interference on the signal wire.

you can eliminate any problem caused by the fuel injection relay by building a 3 way jumper that connects pin 30, 87 and 87. remove the relay and replace with the jumper assembly for testing.

 

Just to recap:
12 k-ohms when cool (14-67 F),
3 k-ohms when warm (68-175 F)
400 ohms when hot (176+ F)

Just for a data point, I just measured my car: 1,208ohms @ 80F

Considering 68F is supposed to be in the 3,000ohm range. 2,500ohms @ 64F seems in the ballpark. I was "hoping" you would have found zero resistance meaning the sensor was bad, that would prevent the car from starting / running.

If it were my car, I'd then test the same connection on the ECU side, make sure there isn't a break in the harness for the Temp II sensor.

Id also do what is suggested above, make a jumper wire with one spade on one end, two on the other and jumper the injector relay.

The AFM / barn door is still on the list. Highly unlikely this is causing a no start issue, but it's possible.

 

I will jump the fuel injection relay # XVI at 87 -87-30 and report back , I will also confirm the temp II sensor has the same resistance at the other end of the wire .
I will report back am charging battery presently want it fully charged .

 

I was hoping the sensor was showing zero or infinite too .

 

have you removed and cleaned the bolts that hold the ground wires to the right cam tower?
There should be 2 grounds one bundle under each bolt.

NOTE I suggest that you get a new relay as sometime making a jumper will not make the system work.
NOTE there are 2 green wires in the car one at the CE panel under the dash this goes to the computer and O 2 sensor.
The other wire is from the distributor housing to the computer under the 14 pin connector on the rt fenderwell.