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I have a bunch of stuff, all clean, what do you mean by "stripped"?
I'm in Bloomfield or meet at up our 4k sq ft Shark Tank in Rochester
Thank you for putting this out there,
Dave K
hey dave, i'll give you a call, easier over the phone. want to check one more place first that might be able to do stripping too. once i hear back from them i'll let you know.
Just got my batch of plating back from Plymouth plating! I am very happy with the quality. Don has been plating for 60 years, he knows what he's doing. They got them done in about 4 days. Pictures are below, and I would like to share what I learned.
I had two bags of parts I brought down to get plated. One I wire wheeled everything except the alternator tensioner, which was glass bead blasted. The other bag was all bead blasted. The wire wheeled parts were very smooth and shiny, while the bead blasted were quite matte finished. Both plated well but the surface finish can make the parts look different. So, if you want super shiny, make sure to wire wheel or otherwise polish your parts before hand. If you dont, bead blast. I imagine chemically stripping the parts would make them look the most like they did when they were new. But dont blame the surface finish on the plater, its up to how you prep. They ran the two bags separate. The wire wheeled batch came out a touch more pink, which is noticeable on the wire wheeled parts, but difference looks much less on the one pink blasted part, and the other blasted parts. So, if you care about surface finish and uniformity, make sure you prep everything the same and have them do the whole batch together.
i bet i will have more parts to do in the future so if anyone wants to split the cost on the next batch just let me know.
wire wheeled parts on left, bead blasted on right. Silver cad on bottom!
bead blasted left wire wheeled right
Top was from "pink batch" but sandblasted. Bottom from other sandblasted batch, almost no difference in color.
I plan on doing another batch of cad plating that most likely will go out in the February time frame. I have not confirmed details yet but I'm expecting the same $150 batch price. If anyone would like join in on the order and split the cost, just let me know. You will have to strip your parts ahead if time. I plan on stripping mine then coating with wd-40 so they don't rust before being plated. The plater runs all the parts through an acid bath before plating which will remove residuals left.
Just got this batch back. Not quite the full kitchen spread Rob Edwards pulls off, but at least a good bedsheets worth! This time I stripped everything with muriatic acid, in order to try to get the original surface finish on all the parts. This was definitely the trick! Everything came out looking great, nice and shiny, the color you would expect. I recommend this method over blasting or wirewheeling. Step 1, soak in muriatic acid for about an hour. Step 2, rinse/neutralize with a mixture of baking soda and water. Step 3, separate out all fully stripped parts. scrub all parts with remaining contaminants (rust, plating, whatever) with a brush and some mineral spirits. Then into the acid for another hour. Rinse, repeat as necessary. Step 4. Dry parts after neutralizing and coat with wd-40 to resist rust before being delivered to the platers. Magic! For all the parts you see the stripping process took about 12 hrs labor.
If you have a parts tumbler, that works really well too for cleaning up parts. I use this media from Harbor Freight in a wet solution with 50/50 water/Simple Green and let it run for 24r hours. It removes old plating though,so I'd only do this on parts being re-plated. About the only area I've had to re-attack are threads on some bolts. For non-greasy parts, dry walnut shell media works fine.
If you have a parts tumbler, that works really well too for cleaning up parts. I use this media from Harbor Freight in a wet solution with 50/50 water/Simple Green and let it run for 24r hours. It removes old plating though,so I'd only do this on parts being re-plated. About the only area I've had to re-attack are threads on some bolts. For non-greasy parts, dry walnut shell media works fine.
seems like a good option. Any suggestions on tumblers? Does it polish the surface finish at all? I liked the acid because it goes the part back exactly as they were plated the first time, warts and all
04-26-2021, 12:28 AM
This time I stripped everything with muriatic acid, in order to try to get the original surface finish on all the parts. This was definitely the trick! Everything came out looking great, nice and shiny, the color you would expect. I recommend this method over blasting or wirewheeling. Step 1, soak in muriatic acid for about an hour. Step 2, rinse/neutralize with a mixture of baking soda and water. Step 3, separate out all fully stripped parts. scrub all parts with remaining contaminants (rust, plating, whatever) with a brush and some mineral spirits. Then into the acid for another hour. Rinse, repeat as necessary. Step 4. Dry parts after neutralizing and coat with wd-40 to resist rust before being delivered to the platers. Magic! For all the parts you see the stripping process took about 12 hrs labor.
