83 euro voltages please
#1
83 euro voltages please
Hi guys I have a 1983 16v euro with cis . It’s being a bit of a pain . I have no spark .
I’ve ordered a green wire hoping that will be the culprit but would someone please be kind enough to explain how this system works .
I’ve been trying to check voltages at certain points along the ignition path but don’t really know what voltage is correct . I’ve got battery voltage at the fender post .
Could someone please tell me what voltages to expect at the following points :
Coil terminal 15 ignition on
15 engine cranking over
coil terminal 1 ignition on
1 engine cranking over
top ballast resistor ohms and voltage
Lower ballast resistor ohms and voltage
coil resistance terminal 1-15 and centre to terminals
sorry this sounds like a lot of info to ask but I just need to check out that the system is within spec .
I might actually be able to drive it one day !
Thankyou in advance.
I’ve ordered a green wire hoping that will be the culprit but would someone please be kind enough to explain how this system works .
I’ve been trying to check voltages at certain points along the ignition path but don’t really know what voltage is correct . I’ve got battery voltage at the fender post .
Could someone please tell me what voltages to expect at the following points :
Coil terminal 15 ignition on
15 engine cranking over
coil terminal 1 ignition on
1 engine cranking over
top ballast resistor ohms and voltage
Lower ballast resistor ohms and voltage
coil resistance terminal 1-15 and centre to terminals
sorry this sounds like a lot of info to ask but I just need to check out that the system is within spec .
I might actually be able to drive it one day !
Thankyou in advance.
#2
#3
Thankyou , all the info I need I think . 👍
#4
FWIW about 90 % of running issues are caused by failed or degraded ignition signals,
before you spend too much time testing components replace the green wire.
NOTE there is a possibility that the new aftermarket green wires may not fit properly and could possibly not work
I suggest to buy only the Bosch green wire,
last I checked its about 150.00.
Roger sells them.
NOTE check to make sure the timing marks are lined up and the belt is turning ,
use a 27mm deep socket to crank the engine through by hand, to see if you can feel each compression stroke
before you spend too much time testing components replace the green wire.
NOTE there is a possibility that the new aftermarket green wires may not fit properly and could possibly not work
I suggest to buy only the Bosch green wire,
last I checked its about 150.00.
Roger sells them.
NOTE check to make sure the timing marks are lined up and the belt is turning ,
use a 27mm deep socket to crank the engine through by hand, to see if you can feel each compression stroke
Last edited by Mrmerlin; 03-24-2021 at 03:09 PM.
#6
Well I've replaced the green wire , nonchange still no spark . Not sure what to do next if I'm honest , it's starting to get me down . In summary I've :
Changed coil
changed green wire
checked dist cap and rotor theses were virtually new when I got the car
cleaned grounds and ballast resistor connections
New plugs
swapped out spark box with two spare ones
any further pointers would would be really helpful please .
Regards Paul
Changed coil
changed green wire
checked dist cap and rotor theses were virtually new when I got the car
cleaned grounds and ballast resistor connections
New plugs
swapped out spark box with two spare ones
any further pointers would would be really helpful please .
Regards Paul
#7
put the old coil back in.
NOTE did you buy a Porsche green wire, IE the more expensive one ,
or get the after market version?
After more investigation i also suggest that you get this
XVII Fuel Pump relay 928 615 113 01
After you fit a proper green wire replace the Fp relay and try to start the engine,
NOTE did you buy a Porsche green wire, IE the more expensive one ,
or get the after market version?
After more investigation i also suggest that you get this
XVII Fuel Pump relay 928 615 113 01
After you fit a proper green wire replace the Fp relay and try to start the engine,
Last edited by Mrmerlin; 03-26-2021 at 01:43 PM.
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#9
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I always think that "thank you in advance" is the best way to close an ignition system question...
Those two ballast resistors have 0.4 and 0.6 ohms resistance. One is always in the circuit, to limit the current flow to the coil at all times running. The other one receives current from either the ignition switch 15 circuit via the first resistor -or- from the auxiliary contact on the starter solenoid while the starter motor is engaged. The feed from the aux contact is intended to bypass some of the resistance losses while the starter is cranking and system voltage would be a bit lower. If you have a rebuilt or aftermarket starter, these contacts are often ignored. The system relies on good wire and connections for that aux contact bypass between the solenoid and the 14-pin connector at the right front fender wall under the hood by the jumpstart post.
Testing the resistors is not that easy, as the fractions of an Ohm on each are often smaller than the contact resistance in your meter test leads. If they each read as dead-shorted or close too it, you are probably good.
The coil 15 terminal should have close to battery voltage on 15 with key in engine-run position (II). The other low-voltage connection varies as the spark box reads the pickup in the distributor as the engine/distributor is turning. That same pickup thru the spark box drives the tachometer, so if you see the tach bounce up while cranking, the pickup signal through the green wire is likely but not guaranteed to be OK. Use caution when trying to measure coil voltages, as the system delivers a nasty wallop if you place yourself between a contact and the chassis while cranking or running. That lightning bolt sticker is serious.
Do you have the twin distributors in your Euro? If so, verify that the little belt inside the housing is driving the second rotor when the engine is cranking. Both need to be turning to make good ignition. You didn't mention two coils so this probably doesn't apply to your car, but still worth asking.
Those two ballast resistors have 0.4 and 0.6 ohms resistance. One is always in the circuit, to limit the current flow to the coil at all times running. The other one receives current from either the ignition switch 15 circuit via the first resistor -or- from the auxiliary contact on the starter solenoid while the starter motor is engaged. The feed from the aux contact is intended to bypass some of the resistance losses while the starter is cranking and system voltage would be a bit lower. If you have a rebuilt or aftermarket starter, these contacts are often ignored. The system relies on good wire and connections for that aux contact bypass between the solenoid and the 14-pin connector at the right front fender wall under the hood by the jumpstart post.
Testing the resistors is not that easy, as the fractions of an Ohm on each are often smaller than the contact resistance in your meter test leads. If they each read as dead-shorted or close too it, you are probably good.
The coil 15 terminal should have close to battery voltage on 15 with key in engine-run position (II). The other low-voltage connection varies as the spark box reads the pickup in the distributor as the engine/distributor is turning. That same pickup thru the spark box drives the tachometer, so if you see the tach bounce up while cranking, the pickup signal through the green wire is likely but not guaranteed to be OK. Use caution when trying to measure coil voltages, as the system delivers a nasty wallop if you place yourself between a contact and the chassis while cranking or running. That lightning bolt sticker is serious.
Do you have the twin distributors in your Euro? If so, verify that the little belt inside the housing is driving the second rotor when the engine is cranking. Both need to be turning to make good ignition. You didn't mention two coils so this probably doesn't apply to your car, but still worth asking.
#14
Yes indeed . The car was starting ok a couple of months ago with only a fuelling issue to sort. After winter I attempted to start it only to find that it didn't even attempt to fire up . Investigations showed that there was no spark
tests done so far ,
voltage at no15 coil terminal 3.4 v ignition on
voltage at no 1 coil terminal. 1.3v ignition on
correct voltages at the spark box as per wsm
I need to do some more readings this weekend and I'll report back
I've replaced the green wire but with aftermarket which has a big question mark over it but also I'm wondering if the distributor sensor is knackered . Is this possible ?
The coil is a new Bosch item
the resistors seem fine .
Is is there anywhere in the fuse box that could have a bearing on my issues as this has been moved about a bit over winter . Not sure if the 14 pin connector could affect it ?
Ill post more findings as i get them
thanks all for your interest and help
tests done so far ,
voltage at no15 coil terminal 3.4 v ignition on
voltage at no 1 coil terminal. 1.3v ignition on
correct voltages at the spark box as per wsm
I need to do some more readings this weekend and I'll report back
I've replaced the green wire but with aftermarket which has a big question mark over it but also I'm wondering if the distributor sensor is knackered . Is this possible ?
The coil is a new Bosch item
the resistors seem fine .
Is is there anywhere in the fuse box that could have a bearing on my issues as this has been moved about a bit over winter . Not sure if the 14 pin connector could affect it ?
Ill post more findings as i get them
thanks all for your interest and help
#15
as you have the correct voltages over the circuit ... don't worry about the fuse box, that is fine.
I must say i had recently the correct voltages but the coil was not firing ! ( must have been due a compression check , so starting the engine 8 times without plugs , seems energy that could not fire damaged the coil ... i forgot to disconnect the coil. )
I would check first as Page 192 point 8 . ( that covers green wire and distributor )
I must say i had recently the correct voltages but the coil was not firing ! ( must have been due a compression check , so starting the engine 8 times without plugs , seems energy that could not fire damaged the coil ... i forgot to disconnect the coil. )
I would check first as Page 192 point 8 . ( that covers green wire and distributor )