jippy

Probably been addressed but I'm having trouble finding an answer....

I'm would like to replace my steering rack/motor mounts. How to I set toe when done (enough to drive around until the suspension settles)? Do I measure toe with the car lifted (full hang?) and then reset back to that measure when done? Do I adjust on the ground with some fudge factor for settling when done?

I read about bolting on a spare set of front discs (reversed) as a surface to take a measure in the air. Just wondering if there is a standard practice.

Thanks,
Joe

StratfordShark

I had the geometry set by local Porsche dealer after similar project involving new motor mounts, rack mounts and new inner and outer tie rods. Measured thread showing on the old tie rods, so I could get to roughly same position with new ones.

if you’re going to have geometry set by a shop, just make sure to drive the car long enough to settle the front suspension. That’s another reason for trying to get close to the old tracking - avoid too much tyre wear while you’re driving at least twenty miles to settle suspension.

jippy

Yeah, I've had pretty varied results trying to count threads and measure the length of the tie rods.

I was hoping to do a DIY alignment following some of the advice given in the forum. I'm just not sure of the best way to set the initial toe after rack replacement.

I was hoping there might be a better way than the thread count method.

Thanks,
Joe

545svk

I read somewhere that 1/4 inch toe in should get you close enough to drive the can so it settles and can then e properly aligned.

Mrmerlin

put the old tierod assembly into a vice with the new one next to it,
screw in the new tierod till it matches the original.
lock the nut,
add a boot then fit it to the rack. drive it for 50 miles then have the car aligned

gazfish

When you do get it adjusted properly make sure they centre the rack using the fixing bolt.

Bulvot

If all you want to do is get it to an alignment shop, then just worry about total toe. Don't worry about left/right toe, centered steering wheel (get it as close to center as possible), etc. Just get the tie rods into the new rack as close to the old distance as you can, then use total toe for the final adjustment.

Before you lift the car or start the work, take a measurement between the two tires (inside to inside). Be very precise. Then, also taking it again after it is lifted. On reassembly, match the lifted measurement before putting it down. If you drive it any significant distance (over 20 miles) , then recheck it against your first non-lifted measurement. If you have trouble getting the inside measurement when on the ground, you can also use the outside to outside measurement. You can use pipes bunjee'd to the outside of the tires to help with getting this measurement. Keep in mind that 1/16" of an inch difference can represent a significant toe difference, so be as precise as you can. Within 1/16" total toe will be fine for your purposes.

You can also pull the car down if you're using a four post lift. Otherwise, you'll want to put closer to 100 miles on it before the full alignment.

Using the thread count method, or matching it to the old rack in a vise, are less than ideal ways to do it. Even just a quarter turn on one tie rod is a significant toe change. It's just not realistic to expect to get it right with that method. It's fine for a starting point, but not as a final measurement before driving it.

Measuring inside to inside, or outside to outside, total toe is very easy and will get you very close to where you started.

Bulvot

If you want REALLY quick and dirty, center the steering wheel visually, lock it in place by turning the ignition off, then use a digital laser tape measure to take a measurement between two identical points on the tires. If you use the same digital tape measure for before and after measurements, you should be within 1/16" of an inch total toe. Should be. I wouldn't do it myself because I have all the alignment tools, but I would certainly trust the digital tape measure for total toe just for the purpose of getting it to the alignment shop.

Wisconsin Joe

How picky are you?

How much time do you have to play with it?

The basic 'string & jackstands' method will get you as close as you want (and are willing to go to the effort & care).

What I've done is to bounce the car up & down to settle it some (it is apparent from looking at it that this works some).

Measure the ride height,then get the toe close, maybe a bit toe out.

Drive it, stabbing the brakes and going over bumps. I know where there are a series of 'speed humps' (not bumps, wider & smoother) that I use. This helps settle the front.

Re-measure the height, check and reset the toe.

Repeat as needed until ride height stops changing, then set the toe to spec (1/32 in? Can't remember off the top of my head).

When I did mine last time, I had the rack off to do the OPG. I got the rack centered & steering wheel level so I knew where 'center' was.